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Thread: Harvey Cast Iron Router Table Build

  1. #31
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
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    SE PA - Central Bucks County
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    Make a bracket that you can connect to the saw from that corner to eliminate the need for the lower foot or so of the leg. You can move the stretchers up to accommodate that. Here's the old-old thread from a long time ago where I did a similar install. A few posts in you can see where I was making for a connection at that corner of the saw, specifically post four and the last photo in that post. Your machine is slightly different in that area, but the idea is still executable...maybe utilize one of the fasteners that holds the panel on the backside of the wagon support in your photo as a connection point behind the saw for a support structure.

    https://sawmillcreek.org/showthread....light=Benchdog
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  2. #32
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    Jun 2022
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    That's an excellent idea, Jim. It's almost so obvious that I have to say "why didn't I think of that?!". While the support bracket on my Felder is smaller, I could get that idea to work. That being said, this idea is really targeted to a permanent router table attachment. In my scenario, I will still want to have mobility on the table itself so that I can pull the whole router table out any time for stuff like easier stand-alone routing, down-draft table and general work surface, as well as getting behind/underneath/inside the Felder saw for maintenance and stuff. I will have to engineer the base cabinet design to have a notch cut out in that section.

    outrigger_support.jpg

  3. #33
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    Mar 2003
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    There are tradeoffs for sure. If it helps, I never once ever used the slider wagon with the router in all the years it was attached to the saw. Unlike with an integrated setup like a saw/shaper, the "business end" of the router table was just too far away from the wagon to make it practical for very many things and it also meant more leaning forward sometimes when running certain things. OTOH, it was great when I need to do edges with things like roundovers on really big things because there was that big, flippin' saw supporting a whole bunch of "whatever" during the task. I've kept the router separate this time around for the new shop.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  4. #34
    I have been there done that with looking into having a router table as a slider outfeed. I did not like the compromises. Too tight and cramped feeling, in large part due to the overhead blade guard and post even though in my saw, the outrigger did not create a conflict. Moreover, I did not want to remove my router table fence every time I wanted to use the saw.

    For me, in looking at your shop, I would try to build storage drawers under the outfeed table and try to find a way to also have storage under the rip fence area, perhaps with a slight change in the duct work. If at all possible would be nice if that would open up space where you have the tool cabinet and the shelves to the left. Would be great if that compressor could go into a lean to shed. Less noise and more space.

    All individual and just my 0.02.

  5. #35
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    Jun 2022
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    Tracy, CA
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    Progress since Tuesday. I did all the machining for the front and side walls that are going to hold up that corner where the leg is going to be cut. I'm using phenolic plywood to give a slippery surface for inside the router motor section. Since I was using that, I figured I might as well use it for all the walls. It actually looks nicer than bare wood. Forstner drill for the corner holes. Then used the table saw to make initial cuts, along with jigsaw. Finally a trim router to clean up the edges.

    cutout_corner_holes.jpgcutout_cuts.jpgcutout_finished.jpg

  6. #36
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    Mar 2003
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    SE PA - Central Bucks County
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    Good looking panels. Projects like this can be a great experience in thinking through to solve an interesting "problem/challenge".
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  7. #37
    Join Date
    Jun 2022
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    Tracy, CA
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    Checking for fit on the cutouts before I cut the leg. I made sure that there was 1/4" space between any moving parts and cleared when moving the slider all the way forward. The exposed edges now have two coats of oil based enamel and are drying.

    check_for_fit_1.jpgcheck_for_fit_2.jpgcut_leg.jpg

  8. #38
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    Sep 2004
    Location
    New Hampshire
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    324
    Looking good!

  9. #39
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    Mar 2003
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    Now THAT is a clever solution!
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  10. #40
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    Jun 2022
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    Paint is still drying on edges, so I worked on cutting and gluing the sub-frame together. You see why I need this eventually. Once the corner pieces are glue dry, I'll double-screw them as well.

    sub_frame.jpg

  11. #41
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    Jun 2022
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    Cut and mounted the inside sections. Nothing interesting here, lol. Yeah, router table is still upside-down.

    inside_sections.jpg

  12. #42
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    Mar 2003
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    SE PA - Central Bucks County
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    You making a router table or a side table/nightstand? (Looks great!)
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  13. #43
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    Jun 2022
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    Hah! The outside panels are the phenolic plywood I got from Woodcraft a couple weeks ago. The phenolic is very dark brown and actually has somewhat of a wood-grain texture to it. Makes it look like real wood, lol. The one flat panel inside is pretty much black phenolic - I bought that many years ago for a project that never happened. The older black phenolic is actually more slippery than the latest "wood-grain" version from Woodcraft, so I'm using that for the inside bottom.

  14. #44
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    Jun 2022
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    Mobility Attempt

    Well, this is what I came up with for a first attempt at mobility. Short legs were attached to the base frame using a bunch of metal braces for assist (need this, otherwise the weight of the cabinet/table will just rip out the glue joint). I used work bench casters attached to these short feet. Well, the result works, but I don't really like it. It does allow me to move the table around fairly easy (it's still a really heavy table with a LOT of mass). However, there are some problems. The casters have a tendency to flip up and get stuck underneath sometimes. Also, it lifts the whole cabinet up about 3/4", which isn't bad for work benches, but it creates challenges with positioning this against the back of the saw. I can drop two of the feet down while holding onto the table (otherwise, it slams down onto the floor). But then the other side needs to be supported and dropping those wheels down is cumbersome. I end up having to drop the cabinet down a couple inches away, then I need to drag the cabinet close to the saw for positioning. It's cumbersome to get the wheels lifted again once it's in position.

    View of base frame with stubs and metal bracing:
    metal_braces.jpg

    Mobile Base:
    mobile_base.jpg

    Positioning with all wheels lifted:
    positioning_both_feet_up.jpg

    Positioning with two wheels dropped:
    positioning_one_feet_down.jpg


    For now, this allows me to move the router table around while I'm building it. I decided I'm just going to order a 16" pallet jack and use that for pulling the router table in and out. It would be more of a precision movement and would keep the router table completely level while it lifted or lowered. The stubby legs would be remove and the base frame would assist in supporting the cabinet for the pallet jack, since the base frame is connected to the side stretchers as well.

    The 16" pallet jack was already somewhat on the list of future purchases because I had planned on getting it as a means to move around the jointer/planer (next year's purchase). I decided to pull the trigger on it later this month since I now have two uses for it.
    Last edited by Aaron Inami; 03-05-2023 at 4:21 PM.

  15. #45
    You mean that it's not level with the Table Saw? I did something similar. I purchased a mobile base for my table saw and then started building my router table to serve as an outfeed at the same height.... until I bought my bandsaw. Then I decided to get the base I really wanted and put that under the table saw and thereby raising it. I think if your router is a little low the wood can drop onto the Harvey top. Your shop though.

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