Rubio Monocoat

[Joe Cowan]

I am new to this product and am trying to find a "whitewash" color for White Oak. There website is extremely unhelpful in navigating through the products as to color. They have answered some questions but have done so in a cookie cutter type response and my head is spinning. I was hoping someone on here could clear my head. They have the standard two mix oil, then a "Pure" product and on the website, you can go to White Oak and pick out some sample colors. I have done that, but do not know how to achieve the color once I decide, and want to order the product. Is is premixed? Do I have to mix it as a 3 part mix prior to applying? On Amazon I found a "Precolor" product that shows a color but in Rubio's response to me, they said I had to mix? I also see a standard product on Amazon that shows the standard oil mix with a color that would lead me to think it comes mixed (see below). Anyone that can talk this lingo in simple english would be a hero to me.

Rubio Monocoat Oil Plus 2C, 350 ML, Super White


Visit the Rubio Monocoat Store

[Michael Burnside]

Normal application is 3 parts oil 1 part hardener. On smaller pieces I sometimes use 2:1 or thereabouts. I measure with eyeballs instead of using more plastic as I feel that is environmentally careless, but that's my opinion, you do what you want.

The "Pure" is about as clear as you can get. If you want the natural color of the wood, that's your best bet. Just mix 3:1, wipe on, rub in with a light scouring pad or sponge, let it sit for about 10-15 minutes and wipe off the excess. It's braindead simple.

The "precolor" is NOT a final product. The idea behind pre-color is to establish a base color. For example, black or silver or mint white, etc. Then you pick any of the oils you want and after the "precolor" dries for at least 2-3 hours, then you just run through the same routine I already mentioned. The pre-color let's you do some really cool things. Search "Cerused" and you'll see what I mean. I designed a modern dresser in read oak. I used pre-color "black" and then "mist" as my oil and got a very modern look. I'm working on a piece right now with red-oak. I'm coating with precolor mint white so that the white counters with the red and removes the pink look. This will give me a closer to white oak look.

I like cotton white (no pre-color) for that "white wash" look. If you wanted more white, to hide the oak, then pre-color nordic white? That said, sometimes you have to get a few sample bottles, they're like 5-6 bucks and do a few tests to see what you like best for a given piece. For example, I prefer "pure" for natural walnut, but a lot of people prefer the "walnut" oil instead. Neither is a wrong answer, it's just personal preference.

[Bryan Hall]

I think you should really buy yourself some samples and try to work this up that way if you are feeling especially picky about the exact whitewash you are going for. That being said, I don't think they do samples of the pre-color.

Color wise, I pretty much start here for the oil plus 2c on white oak: https://www.rubiomonocoatusa.com/pag...plus-2c-colors and feel as though it's a reasonable representation to start from.

Pre-color on white oak is here: https://www.rubiomonocoatusa.com/pag...TE5MS41OS4wLjA.

I'd probably try pre-color nordic white and then finish with super white as my first attempt at whitewashing white oak.

[John TenEyck]

Just to be clear, you're looking at two different products. You do not mix Pre-Color with Oil Plus 2C.

You use Pre-Color to create a base color, if desired. You can mix Pre-Colors together to create other colors. Even if using just one color you have to stir it to make sure it's uniform before applying it. This is likely what RM was referring to when they said it had to be mixed.

Oil Plus 2C comes in many colors. If one of them gives you the color you want there's no need to use Pre-Color.

John

[Joe Cowan]

This is what I finally bought. Hope it is not "precolor" etc but what I need in a premixed product.

bio Monocoat Oil Plus 2C Wood Finish Combo Kit, 350ml, Cotton WhiteItem #74077IN STOCK

$73.99Each

[Kyle Brookshire]

I believe you got it right, can’t see your link. But as others have mentioned, the 2C “system” involves mixing parts A and B 3:1 (though some make it a little stronger which only affects cure time, I think)

Their Pure formula is their base product which includes a bit of linseed oil which they explain can very slightly yellow the wood. But, this seems to be the most widely used color to highlight the natural characteristics of the wood.

The Natural color has a bit of some type of “tint” to it in order to maybe make the wood look more like it’s natural state…at least as I understood their explanation (I do t really care for this one)

The white, smoke, etc. and their 5% counterparts indicate full strength vs having only 5% of the color added to the pure formula, thus only adding a hint of the full product. I’m a fan of 5% smoke but it is definitely not a whitewash.

At least this is my understanding, hope it helps.

[Michael Burnside]

This is what I finally bought. Hope it is not "precolor" etc but what I need in a premixed product.

bio Monocoat Oil Plus 2C Wood Finish Combo Kit, 350ml, Cotton WhiteItem #74077IN STOCK

$73.99Each

Yep, that's the stuff. I just finished a bookcase with whiteoak and walnut. Used the cotton white on the whiteoak and it was a lovely milky white and natural look. That is not precolor. The precolor will always say "precolor". As Kyle mentioned, just mix it with the hardener at a 3(oil):1(hardener) ratio. If the piece is small and you can work it quickly then closer to 2:1 works and will dry faster (I do this on catch trays, coat racks, etc.).

Remember a little goes a looooong way. Just mix what you think you need. If you need a little more, don't panic, just mix it up and continue on your way. I've used a lot of different products but Rubio is my go-to.

If you ever want to experiment, try any precolor (not mixed with hardener, use straight from the bottle) let it dry for 2-3 hours and wipe on what you just bought. The white, mint white, smoke, etc. all add some cool effects.

[Joe Cowan]

I see on various Youtube videos guys sanding to 180. I thought it was recommended to sand to 120 (which seems to course to me). Just wondering what you guys sand to?

[Michael Burnside]

Depends on the piece. Anywhere from 120 to 180. Most furniture pieces and table tops I use 120 or 150 depending on the species of wood. I usually go 180 if I'm going for that "plastic poly" feel or on things like catch trays, coat racks, etc. Just don't over work it too much or the wood will have difficulty absorbing the oil.

Regardless, I always raise the grain when I get to my final grit, let dry and do my final touchup sanding. In my opinion 120 is perfectly fine if you this. Done properly the final finish will be buttery smooth.

[Joe Cowan]

Depends on the piece. Anywhere from 120 to 180. Most furniture pieces and table tops I use 120 or 150 depending on the species of wood. I usually go 180 if I'm going for that "plastic poly" feel or on things like catch trays, coat racks, etc. Just don't over work it too much or the wood will have difficulty absorbing the oil.

Regardless, I always raise the grain when I get to my final grit, let dry and do my final touchup sanding. In my opinion 120 is perfectly fine if you this. Done properly the final finish will be buttery smooth.

You raise the grain by spritzing water on the surface and wiping off?

[Michael Burnside]

You raise the grain by spritzing water on the surface and wiping off?

Yes. I just use a sprayer, coating lightly all final surfaces. I don't wipe it off. I let it dry for a couple hours, or until I'm sure it's dried out, and do my final sanding.

[Joe Cowan]

Just put the first coat of Cotton White on a shelf in the vanity I am building. My wife says it is too white and wants more grain to show through. Could I dilute the color by adding some of the regular non colored oil? Say a 1 1/2 cotton white, 1 1/2 regular and 1 of the hardener?

[Michael Burnside]

Yes, you can mix them. I sometimes do walnut + pure as I find the walnut by itself is too dark.