Polycrylic Question

[Don Penniman]

I have heard many positive comments about this finish. I have recently used it on some small projects and have been pleased with the results.

The instructions on the can state the user shouldn't brush it out too much. With my clumsy brush skills, this is an invitation for runs and drips. Is there any downside to brushing it out and using multiple coats? With such an approach, would it make a difference in toughness of the final finish? So far I have used it on surfaces that are not subject to much wear and tear.

[Jim Becker]

Waterborne finishes dry quickly compared to oil based finishes and that makes brushing them a little trickier. You cannot "work" the finish. It's not as bad as brushing shellac, but still challenging. If you are not getting a good application result with a brush, try a pad. If you really want to brush, you need a really good brush, too...cheapies don't do you any favors, just as they don't with other kinds of finishes. The "ideal" way to apply a waterborne finish is by spraying, IMHO, but that's not always possible. My comments are not specific to Polycrylic. It's a decent finish, readily available and I actually keep some around for convenience, even though I generally use Target Coatings products for major projects.

[Don Penniman]

Thanks Jim - I just put the final coat on a picture frame, brushed it out to a "medium" thickness. Time to experiment with a bigger project.

[Randy Heinemann]

I have found that water-based finishes, such as Polycrylic, really don't need to be brushed at all. I have had a lot of success applying to larger surfaces with a painting pad covered with a nylon stocking; just apply it and let it sit. It essentially seems to self-level. I am never quite as satisfied with the tone of the wood with water based, however. Oil-based highlights the grain more and gives the wood a warmer color.

However, there are places for water-based. General has great water-based finishes. I made a live-edge table from a cherry slab. I used the General High Performance Satin. It gave a great smooth finish and maintained the original tint of the cherry so far. General has a newer Flat water based that I plan to try on some bowls just because it is a "dead flat" finish.

Experiment on pieces you don't care about. If you brush it, try to spread it too much, it may form bubbles and result in an uneven finish.

[roger wiegand]

A good brush makes a world of difference. Gramercy makes a brush for WB finishes that complements their fabulous shellac brushes. You might also look at the clear WB finish options from Target Coatings and General Finishes, for me they look way better than Polycrylic.

[Curt Harms]

I have found that water-based finishes, such as Polycrylic, really don't need to be brushed at all. I have had a lot of success applying to larger surfaces with a painting pad covered with a nylon stocking; just apply it and let it sit. It essentially seems to self-level. I am never quite as satisfied with the tone of the wood with water based, however. Oil-based highlights the grain more and gives the wood a warmer color.

Minwax makes - or at least made - a water based poly that is supposed to bring back the warmer tone of oil based poly. Looking at their web site, I see water based oil modified Polyurethane which comes in warm gloss, warm satin and warm semi-gloss. I know nothing about it. I did try adding a few drops of TransTint honey amber (I think it was) to polycrylic which seemed to help.

[Jim Becker]

Curt, the oil modified Minwax product (the flooring version) does have a nice warm look. It's an emulsified product that brings the benefits of oil based without the long dry times and high odor. Target Coatings EM2000 is a similar product, albeit better suited to woodworking type projects. The Minwax product (which I have used on floors multiple times) is thicker and likely harder to work on small projects, but I'm speculating without having ever tried it.

[John TenEyck]

This is great stuff.



My friend used it to finish a red oak and Sapele tabletop I made for him. He applied it with a brush. You cannot see any lap marks.





John

[Lee Schierer]

As others have said you need a good brush that lays down the finish smoothly without any bubbles. You can lay it down went in a small area and then tip off that area immediately to even out any thick or thin areas before reloading your brush.

[John TenEyck]

If you want to use a brush, add 3 to 5% of GF's Extender to it. That will increase the open time substantially, allowing you to spread it out as well as time for the finish to flow out. FWIW, I've had very good results using a foam brush after adding Extender.

John

[Jim Becker]

That's a good tip, John...I hadn't thought of using Extender for brushing, even though I incorporate it occasionally in other scenarios.

[Don Penniman]

Thanks for all of the insights. I have an upcoming project I can try the oil-modified polyurethane on. I've been buying finishing products in half-pint cans to experiment.

[Jim Becker]

Yea, best of both worlds with the warmth of oil based and the easy application/cleanup and fast drying time of waterborne all rolled into one with minimal odor.

[Lee Schierer]

One thing I noticed about the Polycrylic. It seems to have a lot more UV protection than regular polyurethane. The first time I used Polycrylic was on a small computer stand for our first computer. It was made from red oak and after more than 5-6 years the oak was still the same color as it was when new. It did not darken with age and exposure to light. I no longer have the desk, but I still have the box that is visible in the lower left of the bottom compartment and it is still very light colored 25 years later.
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[John TenEyck]

One thing I noticed about the Polycrylic. It seems to have a lot more UV protection than regular polyurethane. The first time I used Polycrylic was on a small computer stand for our first computer. It was made from red oak and after more than 5-6 years the oak was still the same color as it was when new. It did not darken with age and exposure to light. I no longer have the desk, but I still have the box that is visible in the lower left of the bottom compartment and it is still very light colored 25 years later.
Projects_0028.jpg

Maybe, but probably not. WB poly usually has a lot of acrylic in it, as the name "Polycrylic" suggests. Acrylic resins don't yellow like polyurethane does. Oil based polyurethane really is made with polyurethane resin, ergo it yellows. Some products do have UV stabilizers added to them, but those are typicaly "higher end" products.

John