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Thread: Router set up for curved leg

  1. #1
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    Router set up for curved leg

    Good morning. Two questions

    1. I actually cleaned out the dust bin on my router table and found this aluminum, I think bushing, inside the dust bin. No idea what it is or how it got there. I have a Kreg table, Kreg lift with a Bosch router. Lift seems to work fine, so if it is missing a part...

    2. Setting up to run a curved leg using the plywood template shown. Running a top bearing bit. The grain on the walnut does not look too coarse after trimming the profile out of the blank. My plan is to run them through an oscillating sander to reduce the excess to a minimum and then use double sided tape, both ends and middle, to clean up the edge. I'm hoping the prep on the oscillating sander will help me eliminate any potential tear out. I will use a sacrificial piece on the back side where I need to in order to prevent tear out.

    Anything I haven't thought of or where I am off base?

    Thanks for your input.

    Go Bengals. Sorry I lived in Northern Kentucky years ago and got to see the Rams with Dickerson play the Bengals. I got my Father to come up and took him to the game.

    Brian

    router set up.jpgrouter mystery pin.jpg
    Brian

  2. #2
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    Can’t tell from the pic but it’s best if the pattern is longer than the leg do your bearing is against the pattern before the cutter engages the wood
    Steve Jenkins, McKinney, TX. 469 742-9694
    Always use the word "impossible" with extreme caution

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by Steve Jenkins View Post
    Can’t tell from the pic but it’s best if the pattern is longer than the leg do your bearing is against the pattern before the cutter engages the wood
    Since it is a flat on both the top and bottom, I couldn't figure out a way to cut them square after routing them. So I cut the blank square to length so the ends would hopefully be close to square/parallel. Thanks. Brian
    Brian

  4. #4
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    Well this is a humbling experience

    Well, I'm learning what not to do.... Top bearing flush trim bit. Outside of the curve cleaned up the band saw marks well. Inside of the curve not so much when I got to the bottom 1/3 of the leg. I see how the grain is more exposed here. I did sand the leg on the oscillating sander so I minimized what needed to be removed, but...

    Is the solution to do the outside curve with a top bearing bit, then the inside curve with a bottom bearing bit? If yes, can I do one on the router then the other with a hand held router as long as the piece is properly held in place? My goal would be to be able to do one leg at a time both sides since the template is on it without changing the router bit each time between passes.

    Thanks for any help.

    Brian

    walnut leg snafu.jpg
    Brian

  5. #5
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    Top and bottom bearing and just flip the work on the router table. You can do it handheld but results likely won't be as good.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Brian Runau View Post
    Well, I'm learning what not to do.... Top bearing flush trim bit. Outside of the curve cleaned up the band saw marks well. Inside of the curve not so much when I got to the bottom 1/3 of the leg. I see how the grain is more exposed here. I did sand the leg on the oscillating sander so I minimized what needed to be removed, but...

    Is the solution to do the outside curve with a top bearing bit, then the inside curve with a bottom bearing bit? If yes, can I do one on the router then the other with a hand held router as long as the piece is properly held in place? My goal would be to be able to do one leg at a time both sides since the template is on it without changing the router bit each time between passes.

    Thanks for any help.

    Brian

    walnut leg snafu.jpg
    Exactly the same problem you encountered on the outside of the curve occurs on inside curves. You have to be aware of the grain ends and if the router bit cutting edge is going to lift them you need to make the cut in the other direction either by climb cutting or flipping the piece. If the ends of the grain are pointing towards the cutter go the other way. The same is true when running wood through a planer.
    Lee Schierer
    USNA '71
    Go Navy!

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  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by John Kananis View Post
    Top and bottom bearing and just flip the work on the router table. You can do it handheld but results likely won't be as good.
    JOhn, sorry, thick headed this morning. Use a bit that has a top & bottom bearing on it in the router table. In my mind I will have to adjust the bit height after each pass. Less work than changing the bit, but trying to make sure I am clear on the process.

    Thanks.

    Brian
    Brian

  8. #8
    How much material were you removing?
    Grabbing the wood when routing against the grain is always a risk, but you can reduce it if the cut is very light. I try to be 1/32. No more than 1/16.
    You can also reduce risk by taking care at layout, when selecting where your parts will come from. Here if you're willing to have flat sawn grain on the face, it would reduce the risk of grabbing.

    Otherwise, the top and bottom bearing bit, flipping the workpiece over is a good way to always be routing with the grain.
    I'd like to second the advice to have a template that is longer than your workpiece so you can engage the bearing before hitting the work. And I hope you are not routing the ends because that's asking for trouble.

  9. #9
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    Brian, exactly that. Raise and lower the bit accordingly. Yes, an extra step but just remember how many revolutions to crank the lift up or down and you don't have to stop the machine every time (assuming your lift mechanism doesn't require your hands near the cutter while cranking).

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by John Kananis View Post
    Brian, exactly that. Raise and lower the bit accordingly. Yes, an extra step but just remember how many revolutions to crank the lift up or down and you don't have to stop the machine every time (assuming your lift mechanism doesn't require your hands near the cutter while cranking).
    John, OK. Having trouble understanding why reversing the piece top to bottom would make a difference. On the inside curve of this piece it tore out on the cut near the end on a top bearing bit. Let's say I use a two bearing bit and use the bottom bit for the inner curve cut. I still have the grain exposure on the last 1/3 of the cut? The cutter head is still in the same rotational relationship to the wood & grain at this point. Thanks . Brian
    Brian

  11. #11
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    Yes, you need to flip to avoid coming at the grain from the wrong direction and having it tear out at the least and do what happened at the most. Tooling with both top and bottom than can handle the typical thickness of material plus the template removes the need to change out the tool, but in some cases, swapping tooling may be required for thicker material.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  12. #12
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    Just try and remember the straw analogy and cut along the "length" of the wood (or straws) and not where it (the grain) terminates. Rubbing your hand on the flat of a broom is smooth but rubbing along the bottom you'll get a catch.

  13. #13
    To make sure that’s not gonna happen , you just sand a round- over on the corners. Try it NOW …FREE! “On some scrap to install the app”
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  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Brian Runau View Post
    John, OK. Having trouble understanding why reversing the piece top to bottom would make a difference. On the inside curve of this piece it tore out on the cut near the end on a top bearing bit. Let's say I use a two bearing bit and use the bottom bit for the inner curve cut. I still have the grain exposure on the last 1/3 of the cut? The cutter head is still in the same rotational relationship to the wood & grain at this point. Thanks . Brian
    Brian,

    You don't route the entire side with the same pass. When you're routing the underside of a curve the grain runs downhill from the right side to the center. When you cross the center the grain now runs uphill from the center to the left. So you route the right half with top bearing and the template on top you. Then flip the piece over which makes the grain of the unrouted section, which is now going from the center to the left, run downhill. Raise the bit to use the bottom bearing and route the remaking part from the center to the left.

    Hope this makes sense.

    Cliff
    The problem with the world is that intelligent people are full of doubts, while the stupid ones are full of confidence.
    Charles Bukowski

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cliff Polubinsky View Post
    Brian,

    You don't route the entire side with the same pass. When you're routing the underside of a curve the grain runs downhill from the right side to the center. When you cross the center the grain now runs uphill from the center to the left. So you route the right half with top bearing and the template on top you. Then flip the piece over which makes the grain of the unrouted section, which is now going from the center to the left, run downhill. Raise the bit to use the bottom bearing and route the remaking part from the center to the left.

    Hope this makes sense.

    Cliff
    Yes, thanks. Should I do this for the outer and inner curve or just inner? Some days I am "thick as a brick. " Brian

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