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Thread: RIDGID BS14002 Modifications/Advice needed

  1. #1

    RIDGID BS14002 Modifications/Advice needed

    Scored a used RIDGID BS14002 Bandsaw locally for $50 bucks. I know its not the greatest band saw, but I figured at that price it will do for now, and when I can afford a 17" I will keep the Ridgid dedicated for small blade applications.

    I want to tune this saw up and upgrade it to make it the best performer I can.

    Saw came with a Kreg Fence and Resaw attachment, already added plywood to the base (but not the top, motor and saw are still mounted directly to the sheet metal), and Previous owner also installed a V-Belt.

    Upper pot-metal guide is cracked, and is the main reason I got it so cheap. I will go ahead and replace this with Carter guides.

    I've seen posts where people relocated the motor to underneath the saw, can someone detail the proper way to do so?

    My plans for upgrading the saw are as follows:

    1. Carter Guides
    2. Urethane Tires
    3. Grizzly Riser Block
    4. Shop-Built Enclosed Wooden Base, w/motor relocated underneath the saw inside of base.
    5. 4 Inch dust port added to lower door. Will Use a 4"/2.5" Wye to split up to the stock vacuum dust port on the saw.

    I know a lot of these fixes and upgrades were detailed on the old Ridgid forums, but that forum unfortunately appears to be no-longer.

    Anything I'm missing or should consider doing to the saw while I'm refurbishing it? And if anyone has any links or details/tips/tricks for these saws it would be greatly appreciated.

    Thanks!

  2. #2
    Join Date
    May 2015
    Location
    NJ
    Posts
    1,405
    I had one. I did everything you listed. Also changed bearings, balanced the wheels, upgraded the motor, stouter base, fence, etc, etc. IMHO, the only thing that bs is good for is cutting curves in thin stock. I regret every penny I spent on it.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Oct 2014
    Location
    Pittsburgh, PA
    Posts
    315
    Carter Cobra Coil spring. Crank-type adjuster (https://www.bighorncorp.com/big-horn...-tension-crank).

    I got one on a deal, and had designs on making all these adjustments. Honestly, I ended up just changed the belt, spring and tires. Run pretty smooth, and I do some pretty basic resawing with reasonable results using a 1/2" Wood Slicer.

    I think I'd probably do the least amount possible to get it working well enough and save everything else for an upgrade. The base, moving the motor, riser block...all seem like diminishing returns.

  4. #4
    If you are going to hang motor under saw, be sure and get a REAL TEFC motor. Tons of saw dust collect in the bottom of enclosed base saws. Unfortunately the OEM motor on my Delta (USA made) isn't TEFC.

  5. #5
    I had a Central Machinery (Harbor Freight), but they're both pretty much clones of the old Delta, so I think anything I did to that applies. I was reasonably happy with it, and used it mostly for ripping. Replaced it when I got a killer deal on a Rikon.

    1. New blade unless there's a good aftermarket one already on there. I've been happy with Timberwolf.
    2. Better dust collection - I replaced the 2.5" port under the table with a homemade 4", and put a 2.5" hose above the table with a homemade port.
    3. The crank adjuster is one I did, and I highly recommend it.
    4. I made a plywood extension that added 4" to the sides and back otf the table, which I really liked.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    NE Ohio
    Posts
    7,022
    Find anything and everything you can - written by Michael Fortune - about that saw.
    It's his got-to, 14 inch bandsaw.
    That surprised me since so many people say so much bad about them.
    "Life is what happens to you while you're busy making other plans." - John Lennon

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jul 2020
    Location
    Lehigh Valley, PA
    Posts
    53
    First of all, you got the Kreg fence with the saw, that’s a good deal alone.
    I had that saw for several years. I did many of the mods. I think the biggest improvements for reducing vibration were urethane tires and plywood between the saw and stand. On my saw you could actually see the metal top on the stand flexing as the saw ran. I also added a link belt and riser block. I used it mainly for larger curves, ripping rough stock and re-sawing. At 3/4 HP it was a little weak for re-sawing beyond 6-8 inches, just had to take it slow.

    FYI, most, if not all parts from the Grizzly G0555 saw fit the Ridgid saw.

  8. #8
    I have a 1.5HP TEFC motor from an old table saw I was planning on putting on the saw. Hopefully all the specs match up to be a direct swap. As others have suggested, I don't want to spend a ton on the saw, its just to get me by until I can afford to upgrade.

    The BS is for cutting larger curves (large circles can be done with my circle jig on my router).... and to re-saw exotics into 1/4 inch material that can be then used for scroll saw artwork pieces.

    Since the motor upgrade is free, and i've got tons of scrap 3/4" birch to make the enclosed stand, the main expenses are going to be the riser block and carter guides/tires. About 300 bucks. My hopes is that I could at least get 300 for the BS if I ever go to re-sell. that way I'm only out 50 bucks. I figure with the upgrades and Kreg fence it should be able to fetch that much despite the bad reputation of the saw.

  9. #9
    Quote Originally Posted by Rich Engelhardt View Post
    Find anything and everything you can - written by Michael Fortune - about that saw.
    It's his got-to, 14 inch bandsaw.
    That surprised me since so many people say so much bad about them.
    Mind sharing links of where I could find stuff from Michael Fortune on the saw? Google results aren't giving me much...

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Atlanta
    Posts
    1,600
    Quote Originally Posted by Bruce Wrenn View Post
    If you are going to hang motor under saw, be sure and get a REAL TEFC motor. Tons of saw dust collect in the bottom of enclosed base saws. Unfortunately the OEM motor on my Delta (USA made) isn't TEFC.
    The ridgid has a “real” TEFC motor.

    Don’t assume that others don’t just because your bandsaw doesn’t have one.

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    NE Ohio
    Posts
    7,022
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vNdrkmx6ehI

    Doggoneit if that's not the only thing I can find also!
    There's a magazine article he wrote a number of years ago for one of the WWing magazines.
    It featured him on the cover, resawing a piece of wood.
    In the article, he went through step by step, all the modifications he made to a Ridgid 14" Bandsaw.
    "Life is what happens to you while you're busy making other plans." - John Lennon

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Oct 2014
    Location
    Pittsburgh, PA
    Posts
    315
    Quote Originally Posted by Harry Hilton View Post
    Mind sharing links of where I could find stuff from Michael Fortune on the saw? Google results aren't giving me much...
    I believe it was Wood Magazine #172 (2006), p52.

    https://file.io/du7bSm7iNJua

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    NE Ohio
    Posts
    7,022
    Quote Originally Posted by Patrick Varley View Post
    I believe it was Wood Magazine #172 (2006), p52.

    https://file.io/du7bSm7iNJua
    That's the exact article I had in mind!
    Thanks!
    "Life is what happens to you while you're busy making other plans." - John Lennon

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    River Falls WI
    Posts
    490
    Found this one from another author. https://www.toolboxbuzz.com/power-to...idgid-bandsaw/

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