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Thread: Spindle moulder setting up for curved work

  1. #46
    Quote Originally Posted by Paul Ricard View Post
    Thanks for the quick answer.
    Do you mean that you screw the template on top of the material?
    Also what do you mean by two pieces splined together?

    Thanks again for the hints.
    one piece can spring some because of angled ‘short grain’. Two pieces splined , just make a stronger, non bending unit.
    In most cases I put template on the top , as I see material on the machine table as most consistent for accuracy, especially when
    the work will get a moulding also done on shaper.
    Last edited by Mel Fulks; 03-13-2023 at 1:53 PM.

  2. #47
    Roy Sutton's old videos are the best I've seen.
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IwdJsT8Sdwc

  3. #48
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    Paul, looking at your picture the 2 pieces look like they are fingerjointed together. You will not get any spring with this material at 68 mm thick.
    one thing I see wrong and dangerous is your template should be overhanging the ends by 2 or 3 inches both ends.

  4. #49
    Quote Originally Posted by Paul Ricard View Post
    Is that blank one piece or two joined together? What is the cause of the breakout at the end and center? Did the workpiece end engage the cutter before the template? As Joe said the template should be longer and you need a starting pin or ramp if not using a dead collar serving the same purpose.

  5. #50
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    Kevin, it’s the breakout from his fingerjoint of the 2 pieces.
    Paul, looking again at your picture that is a big bite you are taking. If you are unable to use the hood and dead collar some larger diameter bearings would be safer making the cut in a few passes. The curve is pretty gentle you could also make a curved fence that clamps to the table and keep moving it back. I am seeing dangerous setups here!

  6. #51
    Joe, Kevin, thanks for your feedback.
    That photo actually illustrates a test fit of template on the wood.
    I have indeed in mind that template should be larger than the piece, I am going to trim cut the edges of the wood.

    Last days I think of making an adjustable collar and its base/hood from plywood in my CNC like the following one but of larger and adjustable height:

    custom_hood_collar.jpg

    Thanks.

  7. #52
    This chap has a fair amount of good spindle moulder content and at around the 5 minute mark you can see a homemade ring fence in action: https://youtu.be/h0ogBu1iXi4

    B


    Quote Originally Posted by Paul Ricard View Post
    Joe, Kevin, thanks for your feedback.
    That photo actually illustrates a test fit of template on the wood.
    I have indeed in mind that template should be larger than the piece, I am going to trim cut the edges of the wood.

    Last days I think of making an adjustable collar and its base/hood from plywood in my CNC like the following one but of larger and adjustable height:

    custom_hood_collar.jpg

    Thanks.

  8. #53
    Quote Originally Posted by brent stanley View Post
    This chap has a fair amount of good spindle moulder content and at around the 5 minute mark you can see a homemade ring fence in action: https://youtu.be/h0ogBu1iXi4

    B
    Yeap, this is where I got the screenshot from.

  9. #54
    Quote Originally Posted by Paul Ricard View Post
    Yeap, this is where I got the screenshot from.
    Haha, small world. His holding system could use a little work, but provides the gist of the fence anyway.

  10. #55
    Joe, you've said that tenons should be cut first. In curved sashes, what is the best way to cut tenons?
    How could template help cutting the tenons while it overhangs the edges by 2-3 inches?

    1679151735990.jpg 1679151715934.jpg
    Last edited by Paul Ricard; 03-18-2023 at 1:08 PM.

  11. #56
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    Paul, better to cut the tenons first. Otherwise you would need a counter back up block to prevent tear out on the profile.this can be difficult with window tools but not impossible.
    With segment workpieces the sliding table needs to be set at an angle. Usually the same angle your segments were cut.
    first 2 pictures are coping a 2 piece frame head. Tenoning would be same setup.
    Last picture profile shaping a pre tenoned door rail.
    jo618DF835-7F39-4CDF-B32F-BB5013C0A0BD.jpg
    7EBDFE2C-A68E-4743-84C0-264E7203E8DB.jpg
    8DDB0938-D5B1-47D9-A23B-190F877E0807.jpg

  12. #57
    Joe, thanks for clarifying this. I understand the spindle moulder's support angle is the same as the segments' joint angle, however, in the first 2 pictures, is the wood piece cut to its final length and final angle? Are the tenons cut exactly to the required depth so as jamb is fitted exactly to that depth?

    And what about jambs pieces? Is this the same setup? And are they cut in angle to their final length and then being mortised?

    Thanks.
    Last edited by Paul Ricard; 03-20-2023 at 2:38 AM.

  13. #58
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    Paul, yes cut to the exact length with angle on the saw first. It’s tricky with curves on the shaper. I usually sneak up on it. Those pictures are coped frame joints that makes it a little simpler than slot and tenon. You have to do the stiles for slots also. Or do blind mortises and not the slots. It’s always a call to figure out the simplest method.
    he is one example of a sash that I did and made the slots on the vertical stiles straight across then bandsawed the tenons to fit. This was simpler than cutting angled slots on the end of the stiles.
    Are you in Europe or the US?

    0399E725-0B96-45DD-B829-69A75CBF6C27.jpg

  14. #59
    Joe, thanks for the info, it makes sense now. I am in Europe.
    The straight slots in jambs is better solution when horizontal tenons are cut in 90 degrees angle as your photo shows.
    I am going to make templates a bit more helpful in cutting pieces in the exact length and angle.

    Also, I am thinking of a way to cut the glass bead somehow. One solution would be to make multiple passes with a 3mm router bit in a handheld router using the template positioned up offset on the wood.

    Thanks.

  15. #60
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    Paul, since the glass bead removal is set to be cut with a 3mm saw blade using a 3mm router blade can be done but tricky. Usually not enough length of the bit to cut through the bead. I have tried it but could never find a bit long enough.
    The solution most tooling mfgs offer is a separate inside sash cutter with a 5 mm offset of the bead so easier to cut with a router and made with split tooling so as to be able to run without templates from the original router trammel cut. Of course more expense! In all cases it’s easier too do this with a trammel so at to eliminate the thickness of a jig.

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