Spindle moulder setting up for curved work

[brent stanley]

Thanks Joe, that's a much better picture angle. In the other pic it didn't look like there was a step there at all and the components didn't even look flush, but that's much more straightforeward. It looked like some part was being cut and some wasn't, and I was trying to figure out how it worked, but those pics show it clearly, thanks.

[Paul Ricard]

Joe, I might have missed something regarding outside trimming of curved frames:
Do you use special trim tool to trim the waste outside area of the beam?

Also, it seems that your templates are made from 18mm melamine. Is 12mm ok tough?
Thanks.

[Joe Calhoon]

Paul,
Outside of frame is usually flat so I normally use my 80 mm high spiral cutter or a larger Tersa head to trim these to a template. My IV 68 - 78 set has an outside frame cutter that put grooves in to lock spray foam sealant to the frame. The more preferred 575 Pro Clima sealing tapes do better with a flat surface and that is what I use now.
18 mm melamine is fine. I just use what I have laying around, cover sheets etc. sometimes if the window isn’t large I just cut it close on the bandsaw and use the edge sander to take it to the line. Outside cut on frames doesn’t need to be super precise

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[Paul Ricard]

I have the following tool, its diameter=116mm and height=100mm, but don't have a ball bearing tool of that diameter to copy from template.
However, I have a 130mm bearing copy tool and an adjustable collar I just got from Felder.

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What is the best way to use this trim tool?
By putting collar on top and then adjust it to face trim the wood? Or by using the 130mm bearing copy tool and make a template 130-116=14mm narrower to trim the wood?

Thanks.

[Joe Calhoon]

Paul, I think the new tool you have from Felder would be safer and easier to use. If you have the Felder adjustable collar you should be able to use the 130 diameter cutter with or without the bearing. Easier without in my opinion. With the adjustable collar no need to make templates bigger or smaller. This can get complex. If you post a picture of what you have from Felder would be helpful

[Paul Ricard]

Joe, here is the collar I got from Felder: https://www.felder-group.com/en-us/s...-guard-sp91612
Below, there are some photos from the spindle-collar-tool assembly (I suppose this is how collar should be mounted on top of the tool) and two videos showing that the moulding guard (https://www.felder-group.com/en-us/s...-guard-sp91609) is not so stable under medium pressure. Also, I think the collar is quite thin.

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https://www.youtube.com/shorts/m8H3maFSScE
https://www.youtube.com/shorts/7tZTbr8Pijw

Please let me know your thoughts on this.
Thanks.

[Joe Calhoon]

Paul,
OK, looks like your inside sash cutter that is set up for bead removal. The final pass the adjustable dead collar would be set to the zero of the cutter set. Your drawings should show where this is. These type curve guards usually do not have a scale on them like the Aigner or Suva but not too hard to manually adjust. Like I said before if you are new to this don’t try to take it in one pass.
The Felder hood does look a little flimsy. Maybe someone here that has used them could chime in with some tips. Below is a picture of the hood that came with my Hofmann shaper. Don’t know the brand but other than being fussy to set it works ok.

One issue I see is your tools on the sleeve are stacked lower and might require a thick template to catch the adjustable collar. I run into this with some of my tools. The sleeves can be taken apart to move the tooling up but be careful if for shapers the sleeves are usually set up so no height changes are needed for the process. In the end this might be a case where easier to run template on bottom. If you do change the height of the stack be sure to keep notes on the spacers to be able to get it back to original so it doesn’t disturb the height settings for normal work. Looking at the picture it might be possible that the collar might clear the locking rings of the sleeve but it might be close.

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[Paul Ricard]

Joe, yes this is inside sash profile tool which my curve hood can support with adjustable collar.
However, it does not support some of my other profiling tools, like upper crosspiece and jambs frame profiling or sash outside profiling tool. Those tools' diameter is 216mm, and they are only supported from the 220mm Felder's hood (https://www.felder-group.com/en-us/s...-guard-sp91610), which would cost around 1200€. The cost is a bit high for me since Ι don't have too much curved work to do. So, I thought that a workaround for my adjustable collar would be to buy a 150mm bearing copy ring (~80€) to make the 1st pass, then use 130mm copy ring for the 2nd final pass, especially in above profile tools that take too much of material out of the wood. Please, let me know your thoughts on this.

Your collar seems a lot sturdier than Felder's one. You are right about the inside sash tool being stacked lower. Luckily, spindle has a digital height display and it makes it a lot easier to adjust spindle's height when extra rings get into the stack. The frame profile tool is a bit better, however, yes I need a template of thickness, let's say 36mm.

[Paul Ricard]

Finally I decided to make my own ball bearing ring of 170mm diameter with 21mm plywood.
Also some thick templates will help reach that bearing too.

[brent stanley]

Finally I decided to make my own ball bearing ring of 170mm diameter with 21mm plywood.
Also some thick templates will help reach that bearing too.

I have seen folks make their own ring fences too. If out of thicker ply it would be easy to make it stiffer than what you showed.

[Joe Calhoon]

Some euro shapers including Felder have a raised ring on the back side of the table rings. Just flip them over and you have a dead collar. You just have to work around whatever diameter they are.

[Paul Ricard]

Some euro shapers including Felder have a raised ring on the back side of the table rings. Just flip them over and you have a dead collar. You just have to work around whatever diameter they are.

Joe, could you please clarify this? I assume you mean the table rings below.

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Thanks.

[Joe Calhoon]

Yes, inserted upside down like your second photo

[Paul Ricard]

Joe, you are right, they could be used as collars but their diameter is totally different to my tools' diameter and to what I need to work with. Also the template should be under the wood.
So, I stick to ball bearing rings and I am thinking of using some starting pin to help me start feeding the wood in the tool.

Also, I made the first template out of melamine. The outer left and right pair of holes indicate the final sash width, leaving about 5cm waste area to help infeeding and outfeeding.

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[Joe Calhoon]

Yes, if you cannot use the hood a starting pin or better yet a ramp attached to the top to allow starting the workpiece. I think a starting pin used with the feeder could be sketchy. A ramp better.