Need a new circuit breaker

[dennis thompson]

I have a 30 amp 220v circuit breaker in my shop which supplies electric to my heater. I think it might need replacement. Is there any difference circuit breakers? Or should I just buy on at Home Depot?

[Rich Engelhardt]

The extent of my breaker knowledge is:
- make sure the breaker is the same brand as the panel.

If you can't find a match to the panel - now is as good a time as any to upgrade your service.

[Ronald Blue]

I have a 30 amp 220v circuit breaker in my shop which supplies electric to my heater. I think it might need replacement. Is there any difference circuit breakers? Or should I just buy on at Home Depot?

Unless that's the only 240 volt breaker in your panel if there is a second 30 amp swap it out to confirm that it is the issue rather than the current draw actually being excessive.

[Zachary Hoyt]

Some panels will fit breakers from other brands. Going from memory I was able to put a GE breaker from Lowes in the Murray panel in my workshop. Google will tell you what other brands are interchangeable, if you can find a brand name on any of the breakers or on the panel.

[Jim Becker]

The singular requirement is that the breaker you buy must be designed so it will work in your panel at a minimum. That generally means either the same brand as the panel or a known compatible brand.

Additionally, and this may not apply to you with an older panel but I'll mention for completeness, some newer panels will not use certain kinds of "legacy" breakers while at the same time they are compatible with new types. An example of the latter is that some newer Siemens panels, like the one I have in my new shop building, have "plug on neutral". That simplifies installation of GFCI, AFCI and combined GFCI/AFCI breakers that are compatible with that system as it eliminates the need for the neutral pigtail...the connection to neutral is built in and automatic when you snap in the breaker. These devices tend to be less expensive than the types with the pigtail...by a noticeable amount.

[Brian Elfert]

There are many brands of breakers and panels that will physically interchange. However, a lot of the interchange breakers are not certified by the panel manufacturer even though they fit. There is a case or two where other breakers appear to fit, but they don't seat down fully. You have to make your own decision on if you care about manufacturer certifications. If you have an ITE Gould panel from the 1970s or 1980s there is a good chance Siemens breakers will work in the panel and they are certified for that use. Siemens bought ITE Gould and the Siemens residential breakers are based on the ITE Gould panels and breakers. (Not the new Siemens plug on neutral panels, but those are very rare yet.) Also, Murray panels will use Siemens breakers and still be certified.

You're best off to get the same brand of breaker as the panel if still sold. If the brand or style of breaker is obsolete then get whatever replacement is UL listed for that panel. If the panel is really old and is one of the designs that is dangerous the panel should be replaced.

[Tom M King]

Just take the bad one out, and carry it with you when you go to get the replacement. Some brands have different snap in clamp types for boxes under their own brand name.

[Bruce Wrenn]

While you won't find them in the big box stores, there is such a thing as a HVAC rated breaker. It' a little slower to trip, due to large start up loads. We have a heat pump, that only requires less than 20 amps for outdoor unit, but it will trip a 20 amp ( big box store) breaker in an instant. Had to up grade to a 30 amp breaker, while fuses in disconnect are 20 amp. It ( two different units) has NEVER blown the 20 amp fuses in over 25 years. The Siemens breakers are referred to as "interchange breakers," as they fit more than one brand of panel. In new construction, inspectors generally require breaker to be same brand as panel. Due to recent shortages of some breakers, they have allowed different brands in panels.

[Ronald Blue]

While you won't find them in the big box stores, there is such a thing as a HVAC rated breaker. It' a little slower to trip, due to large start up loads. We have a heat pump, that only requires less than 20 amps for outdoor unit, but it will trip a 20 amp ( big box store) breaker in an instant. Had to up grade to a 30 amp breaker, while fuses in disconnect are 20 amp. It ( two different units) has NEVER blown the 20 amp fuses in over 25 years. The Siemens breakers are referred to as "interchange breakers," as they fit more than one brand of panel. In new construction, inspectors generally require breaker to be same brand as panel. Due to recent shortages of some breakers, they have allowed different brands in panels.

I just did a quick search and both Home Depot and Menards have HACR breakers. So they are easily found. If you look at the breaker and mouse over and blow it up it clearly shows the HACR designation also. When I was looking at the Eaton breakers they also list a total of seven other brands of panels they are UL certified for. So it's not difficult to find interchangeable breakers. From what limited research I did if I read it correctly all or most all breakers now meet this standard. That's what I have read regarding the UL 489 standard at least. That it's been combined to test all breakers to this standard.

[Bill Dufour]

If it is Zinsco or federal pacific I would replace the entire panel and be glad the breaker was able to trip out.
Bill D

[Rollie Meyers]

Some panels will fit breakers from other brands. Going from memory I was able to put a GE breaker from Lowes in the Murray panel in my workshop. Google will tell you what other brands are interchangeable, if you can find a brand name on any of the breakers or on the panel.

That GE fits but is not code compliant, unless the panel was marked to accept GE, when Murray became Crouse-Hinds they were marked to accept ITE & Bryant circuit breakers in addition to the OEM MP frame breakers. Now ITE is Siemens, & Bryant is Eaton BR, OEM breakers are listed to be used in the same make of panel, but UL does Classify some makes of breakers to be used in competitive makes of panels, Eaton CL (not the same as BR) is classified to be used in most competitive makes, Siemens & Eaton both make a classified breaker for SQ D QO panels, SQ D HOM breakers can ONLY be used in Homeline panels, they are not UL classified for competitive panels, Siemens is listed for Siemens, ITE, & Murray, Eaton BR is OEM for Bryant, Westinghouse, Cutler-Hammer, BR loadcenter, and Challenger panels, GE is OEM for GE, & Midwest products, just because a breaker fits does not mean it's OK to use it.

Cutler-Hammer, & Eaton CH, can only use the CH style breakers, SQ D QO should only have SQ D QO, used although there are classified breakers made for them, then there are defunct brands like Zinsco/Sylvania, FPE, ITE Pushmatic, SQ D Trillant, that are only available used, or as UL classified replacements from UBI for Zinsco,FPE, & Pushmatic.

[Jim Becker]

Rollie...you brought a "bad memory" with the mention of Pushmatic! That's what was in the house at our old property when we moved in. Those things were horrible and as you noted, the only way to get parts was used off the big auction site, etc.

[dennis thompson]

Thanks for the advice, I plan to take the breaker with me when I replace it