Do it any time you're going to run into the grain.
Do it any time you're going to run into the grain.
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The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...
Yes. You use one bearing to route downhill for part of the cut, flip the part and template, adjust the height of the bit so that the other bearing comes into play and finish the cut going downhill. Did that make sense? Just pet a cat from tail to head and you will get the idea of what your router bit is doing when you route uphill.
Last edited by glenn bradley; 01-30-2023 at 7:29 PM.
"A hen is only an egg's way of making another egg".
– Samuel Butler
Thanks to everyone for the help. Learning new skills, 1st curved leg project. Think I salvaged the damaged piece. I planed the break flat and glued it up. Joint looks good and I think I have enough meat to trim smooth. Brian
So I bought a top bottom bearing flush trim bit 1/2" shank. The gap between the top bearing and the top of the cutting edge is fine, but the clearance on the bottom is much larger and I am uncomfortable running my 1/4" thick pattern on this. By the time I lower the bit so I am trimming the bottom of the wood, I am almost off the bottom of the pattern with the bearing. So I think my only choice is to remake the pattern and I don't have any 3/8" or 1/2" scrap ply around to do this. I do have a piece of quarter sawn oak that is left over from a project and is flat and is 1/2" thick. Any reason I can't use the oak as my pattern? Thanks Brian
Brian
Can you just double up the 1/4 material? So just glue (ca is good and quick) another piece to the existing template and trim it down.
How about just gluing another piece or two of quarter inch to your pattern and flush trim. I type too slow
Steve Jenkins, McKinney, TX. 469 742-9694
Always use the word "impossible" with extreme caution
Well I now have 8 walnut curved legs. Thanks to everyone for your help.
Brian
walnut curved legs.jpg
Brian