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Thread: which remote switch do you prefer

  1. #1
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    which remote switch do you prefer

    Well my PSI long ranger III switch crapped out this morning. I tried resetting it three times, no luck. Motor plugged into outlet works fine with existing switch on the dust collect. Unit is @ 10 years old, so I think I got my money's work. I just use it to turn on/off the dust collect. I don't need anything more fancy.

    Curious what others think of current options on the market?

    Thanks.

    Brian
    Brian

  2. #2
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    About 15 years ago I set my shop up with the low voltage blast gate switches for the DC. It worked pretty well and was a nice convenience. The switches were a bit lightweight and I eould have to fiddle with one on occasion. But the main switch failed one day. Opened it up and found it had been arcing a lot. it was very near to causing a fire. Could not find a comparable product. So now I just walk over to the DC and switch it on/off as necessary.
    Brian

    "Any intelligent fool can make things bigger or more complicated...it takes a touch of genius and a lot of courage to move in the opposite direction." - E.F. Schumacher

  3. #3
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    When my remote switch crapped out (really old Radio Shack) I went with this one. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...0?ie=UTF8&th=1. Got some extra remote toggles to go with it. I ordered another one when the first one wouldn't work. Wasn't the first switches fault. The motor on my dust collector was bad. Got a new motor and all was well. The remote setup worked perfectly. I copied one that was done on Ytube. Runs on a 220 volt plug. Jim

  4. #4
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    For 220V I like the PSI LR220-3 Long Ranger III but for 110V I prefer Lutron Caseta's outdoor switch. If they made one for 220 I'd buy it. Lutron's line of wireless using their FCC licenced clear connect band is head and shoulders above anything else. The nice thing about Caseta is you can pair multiple remotes. Have one by the bandsaw, one by the CNC, one by the table saw, etc., etc. The Caseta is rated at 15A.
    Last edited by Michael Burnside; 01-27-2023 at 11:56 AM. Reason: Mentioned current limit of switch

  5. #5
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    I got the Grizzly one because it was rated for 3 HP and 20 amps. Works great so far. $70

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by James Baldwin View Post
    I replaced the factory remote set up on my Laguna CFlux3 after the second failure with this unit. I have four remotes spread around the shop, very convenient. Also very reliable.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ronald Blue View Post
    I got the Grizzly one because it was rated for 3 HP and 20 amps. Works great so far. $70
    Thanks Ronald. Grizzly wants $22 freight cheapest way. Same price as the Penn after freight. Think I'll stay with what i know. Thanks. Brian
    Brian

  8. #8
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    My personal preference is a centrally located wired switch that controls a contactor for this kind of thing. I've never been a fan of wireless remotes just due to their tendency to be ornery over time.

    Unfortunately, with my G700, I kinda have to use a wireless remote because that's what comes with it and with a VFD controlled system, one cannot simply switch the mains power to the machine. So I'm hanging it on a hook on my tool wall so I always know where it is.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  9. #9
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    I put four hardwired switches around the shop at key locations with a contactor at the DC. Works perfectly evert time and I don't need to hunt for the remote.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by roger wiegand View Post
    I put four hardwired switches around the shop at key locations with a contactor at the DC. Works perfectly evert time and I don't need to hunt for the remote.
    Same here though I only have one switch location. My shop is small enough to never be more than 6 - 8 steps away from the switch. If I were wanting a wireless switch setup, I think I'd roll my own. Get a good 240 volt definite purpose contactor with a 120 volt coil. Then use a wireless remote control such as those used to control lamps to power the contactor's coil. That way the wireless unit is switching less than 1 amp 120 volts and if the wireless unit fails I just have to replace that, maybe $20 instead of the whole device. Contactors seem to be very reliable so unlikely to ever have to replace that.

  11. #11
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    So to summarize a few details

    If the load is single phase with no vfd you need a switch rated for the load amps. This may require a contactor as Curt has done. A contractor is a higher amperage switch that is turned on by a low powered signal from a remote or a control signal. The control signal might be low voltage and the contractor must be designed for the control voltage you plan to use.

    If the load is 3 phase and has no vfd it may have a contactor with a single phase signal to close it. You can power this with the appropriate voltage. If it has no contactor you will have to add one.

    If there is a vfd it will have provision for a control circuit which must be used to start and stop the load.

  12. #12
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    I bought one at Home Depot for about 10 bucks. It is “made” by Defiant. It is attached to by Grizzly DC and I have Velcro on the remote and mounted it under the fence tube on my table.

  13. #13
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    What I have, and would do again is build my own.

    A small electrical box. Inside the box I mount a double pole relay. Then I mount the plugs to the equipment (either panel mount or pigtails). I put a 110v wall mount outlet it in tapped off one leg of the 240v for it.

    Then I bought a cheapie remote lamp controller from Walmart. I simply plug this in - which feeds the relay. If it ever dies I will just buy another cheapie remote.

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Brian Tymchak View Post
    About 15 years ago I set my shop up with the low voltage blast gate switches for the DC. It worked pretty well and was a nice convenience. The switches were a bit lightweight and I eould have to fiddle with one on occasion. But the main switch failed one day. Opened it up and found it had been arcing a lot. it was very near to causing a fire. Could not find a comparable product. So now I just walk over to the DC and switch it on/off as necessary.
    This is the same setup I’ve used for years. The “main switch” controller goes out every few years and the reviews about its longevity are terrible. But the connivence of opening and closing blast gates to turn on and off the DC makes the expense worth it for me.

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bernie Kopfer View Post
    This is the same setup I’ve used for years. The “main switch” controller goes out every few years and the reviews about its longevity are terrible. But the connivence of opening and closing blast gates to turn on and off the DC makes the expense worth it for me.
    Bernie, what brand / product are you using? My original system was JDS but they dropped the product, probably because of the problems.
    Brian

    "Any intelligent fool can make things bigger or more complicated...it takes a touch of genius and a lot of courage to move in the opposite direction." - E.F. Schumacher

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