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Thread: A Proper Miter Shooting Board

  1. #1

    A Proper Miter Shooting Board

    Finally got around to constructing a proper miter shooting board. As is normally the case, it takes longer than you might think, but the effort was worth it.
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  2. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 2016
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    Are you going to build another for right angles? Varnishing the wood rubbing surface, then adding beeswax can reduce friction.
    ​You can do a lot with very little! You can do a little more with a lot!

  3. #3
    Already have that one. I sanded and waxed the bare wood: smooth sailing!

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
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    Perth, Australia
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    Phil, I recommend that you add a side fence to your board …



    Planing a mitre is more difficult than planing square because the shape of the mitre wants to move the plane in the same direction. This will make it difficult to sustain the shape (generally, the end of the mitre is not fully planed).

    Regards from Perth

    Derek

  5. #5
    You may have noticed the seemingly unused real estate on the right side of the board: this is where an adjustable fence will be installed to handle both the #9 and the #51. Version 2.0 if you will. Stay tuned.

  6. #6
    And here we have version 2.0 which includes the outside guide fence. A quick trial run on some sample boards produced good results, but I am not sure that the outer fence is all that necessary, assuming a very sharp blade and good technique. Time will tell.

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  7. #7
    Join Date
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    I am not sure that the outer fence is all that necessary
    Good shooting can be done without the outer fence. The outer fence makes for one less thing to cause a problem. This helps to increase accuracy while quickening the work flow.

    jtk
    "A pessimist sees the difficulty in every opportunity; an optimist sees the opportunity in every difficulty."
    - Sir Winston Churchill (1874-1965)

  8. #8

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jan 2017
    Location
    Santa Cruz, CA
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    Nice miter shoot board...How is the far side, or opposite angle side used? Seems like it would result in a lot of blow out, or is the plane reversed for the opposite operation?
    Last edited by scott lipscomb; 01-27-2023 at 12:00 AM.

  10. #10
    Key feature of the no. 9 miter plane: it can shoot from both directions. The handle screws in on either side as needed.

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    Perth, Australia
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    The LN #9 is indeed a nice shooting plane (or was, as it is no longer offered, I believe). However ... if you know how to hold the Veritas LA Jack, the LAJ is a sweeter and better shooter. The condition here is "if you know how to hold the LAJ". For beginners, the #9 is easier to use and would be preferred. I detailed the reason in 2011 in the article link that Joel supplied, above.

    Regards from Perth

    Derek

  12. #12
    Haven't gotten to shooting miters, but have wondered if the board being trimmed will want to creep forward into the cut as you trim it up? No one seems to clamp the board in place, so, I am thinking no.

    robo hippy

  13. #13
    Miter Shoot Board: Version 3.0


    This shoot board was purpose built to use with a no. 9 miter plane. After adding the outside guide fence (refer to version 2.0) I learned something about the no. 9 that was news to me, and I suspect will be news to others: the plane was not designed to be used on a track, which is essentially what is made when an outside guide is added to a shoot board. Unlike the no. 51 plane which was purpose built to run on a track, the no. 9’s geometry is not conducive to successful use on a tracked shoot board. Although the base and the sides of the plane are at 90 degrees, the top of the plane is not parallel to the sole. As such, the outside fence only contacts the top of the plane at its highest point. Although the 51 was/is machined to have two parallel edges to run against the inner and outer guides, the no 9 is not manufactured this way. So I have settled on a no-outer fence configuration for this shoot board (unless the 51 is being used).


    I believe the No. 9 was Stanley’s more economical answer to those fancy infill miter planes of the day. I wonder if the infills of the day were manufactured to have the ability to run in a track?



  14. #14
    Join Date
    Jan 2017
    Location
    Santa Cruz, CA
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    My question above was related to the Stanley 51. The miter fence on the top would not be used, I assume, and that instead, you would flip the opposite side miter and shoot it upside down? Or, is a flippable plane the better method? Trying to figure out the best tool to make a bunch of frames I have coming up and I have a 51 and a Lee Valley bevel up smoother.

  15. #15
    There are no doubt lots of ways to skin this cat. David Charlesworth favored the bevel down/higher angle option of the 5-1/2 (or was it a 6). There is a bit of technique involved, but I think most woodworkers could master any of the approaches with a modest investment of time. The no. 9 with such a large bearing surface is very nice to use, and with a sharp blade, I have been producing 1-2 thou. shavings of maple with some degree of consistency. No doubt, the 51 is the plane to beat. But when you want to shoot miters from two opposing directions, you are now looking at both the 51-right and the 51-left: maybe someday......

    Quote Originally Posted by Derek Cohen View Post
    The LN #9 is indeed a nice shooting plane (or was, as it is no longer offered, I believe). However ... if you know how to hold the Veritas LA Jack, the LAJ is a sweeter and better shooter. The condition here is "if you know how to hold the LAJ". For beginners, the #9 is easier to use and would be preferred. I detailed the reason in 2011 in the article link that Joel supplied, above.

    Regards from Perth

    Derek

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