How to cut the lid of a box.

[Mike Henderson]

Now that's everything I was hoping for! So many great techniques.
Naively, I didn't know I should have to plane the edges to something useable. Figured maybe some light sanding and it would be perfect.
This step of a project has me daunted. So much work behind me with a box, then (if history repeats) I'll make some beautiful long project into frustration.

Thank you all.
-Peter

I've sawn the top off of a box with a Japanese saw. As others have commented, I use a marking gauge to mark a line where to cut.

The next thing I do, after I've cut the top off, is to use a sanding board. This is an MDF board, maybe 2 feet by 2 feet, with a large piece of sandpaper glued to to it. The MDF is flat and the sandpaper is glued with spray glue so as not to warp the MDF.

Then I place the box pieces, one at at time on the sanding board and move the piece around until it's flat. You can put a pencil mark on the edge and when it's completely gone, the piece will be flat.

That way, the top will fit exactly to the rest of the box.

Mike

[steven c newman]

Note: IF one actually watches Paul Sellers cut a lid off of a box.....watch HOW he uses the corners of the box.....he will saw into each corner as carefully as he can. He will tilt the box in the bench vise so he can see the lines, AND follow them... Then the same with each end of the box...tilting it for best view..until the saw just "pops" through on the ends. He then uses the kerfs to help guide the 2 side cuts...again, tilting the box for the best view...until he has cut through one side. Then he will add shims to keep the kerf open...install in the vise as high as the vise can hold the box....He will work towards the center from each end, until the cut is through. He then uses a hand plane that will "bridge across" to level any high spots...and remove the saw marks....he levels at the ends first, spanning from one side to level the other. And works his way around....

Masterclass: Keepsake Box Project...

[Peter Daniels]

Has anyone here actually cut a box to create the lid w/ a plow plane?
I can’t think of a time I’ve planed anything all the way through. Seems like those last few shavings would result in a choppy remaining edge.

It’s funny how many of your suggestions were just ways to saw a clean straight line. Seems like a good reminded for me to revisit those fundamentals. Which seems like a lesson I’ve had to learn in other areas of life.

-PD

[steven c newman]

I use a Stanley 45 when I want to create a Dust Seal between the box and the lid...

[steven c newman]

Sometimes..we tend to over-think some of the easier tasks....

[Peter Daniels]

Once the sawdust is swept up tonight, I’ll revisit Paul’s videos on such tasks, thanks. I tend to drink my coffee and answer emails while it plays. Next time it will get more of my attention.

Things I’ve learned in the last few days of making sawdust.

It’s been easier for me to saw a clean straight line after creating a knife wall w/ a wester saw than Japanese. Interesting. All the times I’ve gone back and forth between them, Ive never noticed that.

Planing the tops back to a nice level line is tedious and surprisingly hard to do in a clean way. But- taking those paper thin shaves is surprisingly rewarding despite the occasional chunk removed after the toe of a plane smacks into a nearby square edge.

The large sheet of sandpaper wouldn’t have ever occurred to me. I like it. Thank you.

I just fell down an internet/eBay rabbit hole on the Stanley #45. What a contraption. Such a plane is exactly what I love to track down, sand, clean, sharpen, and the properly mess up a project with.
I’ll think on it, but think a skew plane I have might take a similar spot on my bench.


-PD

[Assaf Oppenheimer]

Honestly, i was going to say a kerfing plane

[Peter Daniels]

Kerf Plane!!? That’s a thing? (Image searched commenced….yes, it’s a thing)
It reminds me of bumper bowling. Training wheels. Water wings.
All those things that are used to help someone get along for a bit while their skills come up to date.
I think it would help me cleanly complete this task.

[John Kananis]

Kerfing planes come in pretty handy sometimes. Here's one I made a bunch of years back. The main body is madrone and the screws are cherry.

[Derek Cohen]

How is a kerfing plane different from a saw?

As far as I am aware, kerfing planes would be filed rip. For box tops, you are sawing across the grain. You want to use a crosscut saw.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[steven c newman]

EVERY box lid I have EVER sawn off from the box...it involves a RIP cut.....as the cut is a rip with the grain.....would be a Strange looking box IF you went across the grain...unles you were cutting a lid from one of the ends of the box...Hmmmm...might be fun the watch THAT happen...

Saw I used...Disston No. 4 backsaw, 14" in length..9ppi filed rip...works quite well...

[John Kananis]

How is a kerfing plane different from a saw?

As far as I am aware, kerfing planes would be filed rip. For box tops, you are sawing across the grain. You want to use a crosscut saw.

Regards from Perth

Derek

That's odd. Most box tops for me are rip cuts.

Edit: I'm not suggesting to use a kerfing plane but one certainly could.

[Ben Ellenberger]

Once the sawdust is swept up tonight, I’ll revisit Paul’s videos on such tasks, thanks. I tend to drink my coffee and answer emails while it plays. Next time it will get more of my attention.

Things I’ve learned in the last few days of making sawdust.

It’s been easier for me to saw a clean straight line after creating a knife wall w/ a wester saw than Japanese. Interesting. All the times I’ve gone back and forth between them, Ive never noticed that.

Planing the tops back to a nice level line is tedious and surprisingly hard to do in a clean way. But- taking those paper thin shaves is surprisingly rewarding despite the occasional chunk removed after the toe of a plane smacks into a nearby square edge.

The large sheet of sandpaper wouldn’t have ever occurred to me. I like it. Thank you.

I just fell down an internet/eBay rabbit hole on the Stanley #45. What a contraption. Such a plane is exactly what I love to track down, sand, clean, sharpen, and the properly mess up a project with.
I’ll think on it, but think a skew plane I have might take a similar spot on my bench.


-PD

glad you had a good outcome!

Ive had the same experience as you - I find a western saw easier than a Japanese, but both work.

I’ve had to learn to slow down and be aware of the plane when cleaning up boxes, drawers, etc. It is easy to catch a far corner with the plane. The Sellers videos have good demonstrations of how to angle a plane at the corners to minimize this. It is also a good way to learn to pay attention to where the plane blade is cutting, in relation to the rest of the sole.

I have touched up the edges of my #5 and #4 with a file, to ensure there isn’t a hard edge that can catch pieces when you plane around a corner.

[Derek Cohen]

EVERY box lid I have EVER sawn off from the box...it involves a RIP cut.....as the cut is a rip with the grain.....would be a Strange looking box IF you went across the grain...unles you were cutting a lid from one of the ends of the box...Hmmmm...might be fun the watch THAT happen...

Saw I used...Disston No. 4 backsaw, 14" in length..9ppi filed rip...works quite well...

Quite right, Steven. That’s my spatially- challenged side coming to the fore. I must not attempt to visualise this late at night!

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Charles Guest]

Well, don't use a rip saw. Use a crosscut tenon saw. Mark the cut with a mortise gauge with two sharpened pins,or use a Japanese mortise gauge. Saw between the lines. Leave a skosh for a very finely set smoother to clean it up and make the marked lines completely disappear, but just so. A 12pt. panel saw will work just as well if not better.