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Thread: Milwaukee M18 Sawzall?

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
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    Porter,TX
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    Milwaukee M18 Sawzall?

    Guys I’m in market for the M18 Sawzall, I was wondering if anyone has any experience with this saw? Since started on my retirement build I already need to make some framing adjustment and this saw I believe will come in handy. My framing is put together with GRK screws but I need to cut few of those screws to move some studs. So was wondering about this Sawzall for that purpose and looking for recommendations on what blade to cut those screws between bottom plate and stud? Thanks for any guidance, yes I have other M18 tools.

  2. #2
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    Nov 2021
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    I don't have one but I see it has a 1 1/8 inch stroke. I find a 1 1/8 stroke too long for plunge cuts and tight spots. I have a classic old school 3/4 inch stroke for remodeling and a super Sawzall (1 1/8) for cutting out in the open. both are corded.
    Best Regards, Maurice

  3. #3
    I was going to suggest the Milwaukee 6514-27 18-Volt Hatchet, but it looks like they don't make it anymore.

    Now they use the name "hatchet" for a small pruning saw.
    It's a shame, I really like the moveable handle feature and dual position battery.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Dec 2019
    Location
    Nova Scotia, Canada
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    280
    Hi Carroll,
    I have a M18 Reciprocating saw and used it this summer during the remodel of our house. My contractor used the same model but his partner was a Dewalt guy. Both brands were used extensively with great results. Getting the right blade is key for success.
    Have fun,
    David

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Feb 2018
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    N CA
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    I don’t have the M18, but do have the M10 sawzall. It is a great tool. For the work you are describing the more compact M10 might just be the bees knees. I have used it in quite a bit of destruction and the compact format is excellent.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
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    SE PA - Central Bucks County
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    If you do not expect to use this tool a lot into the future, you may want to consider a less expensive saw with a tail or even something off-brand/house-brand battery operated that you can unload when you are done your building project. Just because you have M18 in your arsenal doesn't limit you to that format. It also sounds like it may be an aggressive saw for the work you want to do based on other commentary already posted.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Location
    Lake Gaston, Henrico, NC
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    No need to buy an expensive blade for cutting nails. I had to cut a bunch raising a roof on a small building, cutting the nails holding the two top plates together. I tried several different types, including carbide tipped, but couldn't tell much difference. I think I ended up using Irwins the most because I caught them on a good sale.

  8. #8

  9. #9
    axe

    Hired a carpenter years ago we cut my roof open, he cut straight down through shingles, nails and the 2 x 6's, first time seeing that. Then put a new hip and part of the ridge board in, 2 x 10 for the hip. House was so out of whack from last moron he had a hard time to figure out where to end so said leave it oversize and pulled a string and cut it the next day.

    I have some number over 10 axe blades think we used 9" but maybe it was 12' either one the thing was a beast. Ive cut trees down with them. I resharpen and re use them. Some are the past, some are nanny state, they are harder to sharpen. Whats next a lid on my coffee and I have to phone in before i have a sip?

    They cut the nails fine, not sure if GRK are harder. They are good screws.
    Last edited by Warren Lake; 01-20-2023 at 9:13 PM.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Mar 2018
    Location
    Piercefield, NY
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    I have no experience with Milwaukee cordless tools, but my probably 40 year old Super Sawzall is great and only cost $50 or less. I find plunge cuts are pretty easy with it, using 6" blades or shorter. Precision is not great. Screws are a lot harder on the blades than nails in my experience. I would get a metal cutting hacksaw type blade and try that. They are not the fastest at getting through the wood but once you hit the screw they will cut through it faster and with a lot less shaking of the operator.

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Feb 2020
    Location
    Camarillo, CA
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    410
    I have a friend who says she wants to be buried with hers. She really likes it!

  12. #12
    broke mine after 25 plus years, not had time to see what failed Carpenter gave me his broken one as well. Not negative on either. they are nicely balanced tools and work great. Mine was just used hard for too long. I used it for stumping a number of times long blades digging cutting large roots. Still have have two serious ones to get out, cant use the chainsaw cause of dirt but usually dig and wash dig and wash but not always get at all depending on where the roots go. Trashed the chainsaw once plunging into a stump only to find out no roots below they all went sideways.

    I havent tried a battery one and find it hard to believe they could keep up, when you see the ads or you tubes on the battery worm drives they make pretty big claims.

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    NE Ohio
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    I run a 10 amp DeWalt corded saw - but - I swear by Milwaukee "Demolition Blades".

    I use that blade 99% of the time. The only time I use a more aggressive tooth style is for trimming trees/hedges.

    I bought the DeWalt because it has the 4 position head that makes flush cutting studs at the plate more comfortable. I had been using a Bosch 13 amp.

    when you see the ads or you tubes on the battery worm drives they make pretty big claims.
    LiIon battery tech and brushless motors bring a whole new world of power to the dinner plate for cordless tools.
    My granddad always said, :As one door closes, another opens".
    Wonderful man, terrible cabinet maker...

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Western Nebraska
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    4,680
    I cringed when reading "cutting GRK screws", that's like cutting dollar bills up! We are hard on sawzalls, have found the big Dewalt holds up better than the Milwaukee. The Milwaukee service is easy to deal with though. The Milwaukee tends to have blade latch and rod problems. The rod just breaks completely off, or the blade won't stay in anymore. Never had a problem with the warranty, but the Dewalt just hold up better. The dewalt needs a rafter hook though.

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Location
    Lake Gaston, Henrico, NC
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    The all time best was the Porter Cable/Rockwell. It had two functions selectable with a lever. One with an orbit for cutting wood, and one without for cutting metal. I have a Rockwell that I bought new that still works. The orbital action cuts wood at least 5 times faster than any one that doesn't orbit because it clears the sawdust.

    For a cordless one, I bought a Makita because I was already into their battery system with other tools. I have no complaints with it, and blade changing is really easy, tooless.
    Last edited by Tom M King; 01-21-2023 at 10:48 AM.

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