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Thread: Drying Box

  1. #1
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    Drying Box

    I have this stainless steel enclosure with glass back and glass door. It's about 20 x 16 x 20 deep. A scientific drying rack, I'm guessing was its originally use. No holes in it. Has 2 mesh shelves and one solid one. Plan to modify it for a dryer. Will probably hold 6 large bowls at a time. Likely pretty air tight. Those who have done it, any advice you could lend to how best to heat would be appreciated.

    Should I insulate it?
    Best spot for bulb?
    Bulb type/wattage to use?
    Fan needed? Vented or just circulate? Placement relative to bulb?

    322780840_5633458530103922_2861769666477558873_n.jpg

  2. #2
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    What heat range are you hoping for? I use incandescent light bulbs. It only takes a few watts if you add insulation. Thats going to be excellent.
    Best Regards, Maurice

  3. #3
    Depends what you are trying to do. Speeding up the drying of rough-turned vessels can backfire depending on species, thickness, initial moisture content, etc. I usually try to slow it down with Anchor Seal, keeping the pieces in a moderate heat/humidity/low air flow environment, sometimes inside a paper bag or cardboard box, at least during the initial drying stages from green. Once-turned pieces usually dry out pretty fast without encouragement.

    If you are intent on doing this, insulate the box, monitor the conditions and add controlled venting if needed. A low voltage incandescent bulb should suffice.

    A former neighbor who turned epoxy "enhanced" burls had a similar chamber for his roughouts but in his case drying induced cracks were a feature.

  4. #4
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    Was thinking to use for both rough cut blanks as well as once-turned things. Purpose is to speed up drying without cracking. Thinking I'd have the option to adjust the heat either by using 1 or 2 bulbs at the same time, or by using a dimmer. To keep the bulbs small, was wondering about T10/T30 footprints installed in right angle sockets. Maybe one on each side for even heating. Wattage may be the biggest question.

  5. #5
    A small fan would probably be a good idea, perhaps a computer muffin fan. If the box is insulated I suspect overheating is the main hazard, so monitor and adjust the temp and rh.

  6. #6
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    experimenting is your friend. The weak link with mine it temperature monitoring. My next need is for two thermometers one for the cabinet interior, and one for the center of the wood. I want a way to check both without having to open the door. I currently have 4 53 watt (75 replacement) regular bulbs. I only use all four for making red neck ebony. My bulb holders sit on the bottom above good size holes for the wire's and to let air in. There is a vent at the top. The convection creates good air flow. It is also very handy for killing bugs and speeding up glue & paint.
    Last edited by Maurice Mcmurry; 01-08-2023 at 1:16 PM. Reason: correction
    Best Regards, Maurice

  7. #7
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    Most importantly, you want the box ventilated at first. 6 wet bowls or blanks will flash over with mold in a warm moist enclosed space
    Should I insulate it? Yes
    Best spot for bulb? Heat rises, bulb on the bottom
    Bulb type/wattage to use? Heavy service duty incandescent. I use a cheap hot plate in mine for an adjustable heat.
    Fan needed? Vented or just circulate? Placement relative to bulb? Fan placement makes no difference.

  8. #8
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    What is the temperature setting most try to maintain?

  9. #9
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    For green wood I start at 90 and slowly work up to 140.
    Best Regards, Maurice

  10. #10
    My drying box is made from an old fridge. I use varying wattages of incandescent bulbs to maintain 100*. There are two 3" holes cut into the interior of the fridge, one low and one high for a natural chimney effect. Temps are monitored with two remote sensing thermometers from Amazon.

  11. #11
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    You said: " No holes in it. ... Likely pretty air tight."

    So, if you want it to be a dryer, you've got to modify it. No hole, air tight? Sounds like a Mason fruit jar or a thermos.

  12. #12
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    On further inspection the case is very air tight, front door has a heavy rubber gasket. My plan right now is to use two 25W T10/T30 bulbs, one on each side in the bottom, mounted tight along the side bottom corners. The sockets I've chose each support two bulbs. So I could put 4 bulbs in there at whatever wattage is best, if needed. The box is about 2/3 the size of a dorm fridge. So, not real big.

    I plan to drill 6 small (1/2 inch) holes in the bottom and 12 (3/8 in) in the top. The top holes will be 3 rows of 4 holes, back- middle - front. A temperature controller will control on/off. Not sure on fan placement. I might leave it on hooks that can hang from anywhere on the racks. If the fan gets permanently mounted, was thinking top facing down maybe??? The bottom shelf is solid stainless, and I'll have to drill several holes in it for air flow on that shelf.

    The whole thing will be lined with 1/2" foil backed insulation. I'd like to use foam backed foil, but this will not be easy to install because the thing is totally seamless. There is no way to remove the rack rails. I'm not sure the foam will bend enough to push into place. I may have to use fiberglass batting held in place with foil tape, which is untidy
    Last edited by tom lucas; 01-09-2023 at 8:02 AM.

  13. #13
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    Tom, why not insulate the outside if you can’t do it adequately on the inside? Seems to me that that should still work. Insulate the top, two sides and the back, and leave the front as just the glass so you can see in there and monitor what you wish without opening it. Best of luck. Keep us posted on your solution(s) and your results over the next few months.
    Don't let it bring you down,
    It's only castles burning,
    Just find someone who's turning,
    And you will come around

    Neil Young (with a little bit of emphasis added by me)

    Board member, Gulf Coast Woodturners Association

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Walter Mooney View Post
    Tom, why not insulate the outside if you can’t do it adequately on the inside? Seems to me that that should still work. Insulate the top, two sides and the back, and leave the front as just the glass so you can see in there and monitor what you wish without opening it. Best of luck. Keep us posted on your solution(s) and your results over the next few months.
    That might be a good idea Walter. I can get more insulation that way. Though moving it may not be as convenient. Maybe build it to drop on like a 4-sided hat, and just let it sit on an insulated bottom. We'll see once I get all the parts in hand. It's my Saturday project.

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Maurice Mcmurry View Post
    experimenting is your friend. The weak link with mine it temperature monitoring. My next need is for two thermometers one for the cabinet interior, and one for the center of the wood. I want a way to check both without having to open the door. I currently have 4 53 watt (75 replacement) regular bulbs. I only use all four for making red neck ebony. My bulb holders sit on the bottom above good size holes for the wire's and to let air in. There is a vent at the top. The convection creates good air flow. It is also very handy for killing bugs and speeding up glue & paint.
    Ok, I'll bite...what is red neck ebony?

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