Bandsaw Fences

[Dave Sabo]

Negatory. His first article in FWW was in 1981.

I stand corrected on the dates. But, since that article is about steambending and doesn't mention a bandsaw once, it does not further your assertion that his technique older. M. Reed's article already mentioned pre-dates it by six months, and it is about bandsaws ! Even Fortune's 87 article on the mirror , which relies on the bandsaw and jigs doesn't mention anything about having or even needing the miterslot aligned in order to accomplish things.

Amazing. Go back and read what I originally posted; that your method renders the miter slot unusable. If you have no use for a miter gauge on a bandsaw or a jig that uses the miter slot go ahead and only align the fence to the blade. But if you want to attain the full use of your bandsaw, then align the fence to the miterslot and the table to the blade. That will allow you to use your miter gauge, build jigs that use the miter slot, and attain a fuller use of the equipment you bought and paid for.

And for those that don't have a miter slot ? ? ?

And just what kinda jigs are you going to use on that WT saw that has the slot to the left of the blade ? ? ?

If the holes aren't sufficiently oversize to allow the table to be aligned to the blade, then there are several solutions:

you left out:

4: Adjust the fence to match the lead of said blade.

And what if there isn't enough meat in the trunion to allow for the holes to be enlarged ?




You just seem unwilling to accept that there is more than one way to skin a cat. What I'm saying is the way to don't want to acknowledge 1. works 2. is faster and easier for a neophyte to accomplish and 3. is the older of the methods shown in woodworking publications. Both methods have advantages and limitations.

[Jon Grider]

Wow, never saw this coming. My simple request for input from bandsaw fence owners turned into a big ego fight with all the rancor of a political argument. Can't we just be nice here? Again, thanks to those who stayed on topic.

[Phillip Mitchell]

I recently located a new-in-box Laguna Driftmaster fence. They were discontinued a few years back, but are quite nice and have a very convenient micro adjust dial. I have yet to install it on my saw, but looking forward to replacing the current somewhat crude aluminum fence.

[Stephen Bandirola]

Wow, never saw this coming. My simple request for input from bandsaw fence owners turned into a big ego fight with all the rancor of a political argument. Can't we just be nice here? Again, thanks to those who stayed on topic.

Yep, Religion, Politics and Bandsaws.

[Mike King]

I stand corrected on the dates. But, since that article is about steambending and doesn't mention a bandsaw once, it does not further your assertion that his technique older. M. Reed's article already mentioned pre-dates it by six months, and it is about bandsaws ! Even Fortune's 87 article on the mirror , which relies on the bandsaw and jigs doesn't mention anything about having or even needing the miterslot aligned in order to accomplish things.







And for those that don't have a miter slot ? ? ?

And just what kinda jigs are you going to use on that WT saw that has the slot to the left of the blade ? ? ?





you left out:

4: Adjust the fence to match the lead of said blade.

And what if there isn't enough meat in the trunion to allow for the holes to be enlarged ?




You just seem unwilling to accept that there is more than one way to skin a cat. What I'm saying is the way to don't want to acknowledge 1. works 2. is faster and easier for a neophyte to accomplish and 3. is the older of the methods shown in woodworking publications. Both methods have advantages and limitations.

If you want to use the fence, then the fence has to be aligned to the blade. If you want to use the miter slot whether for a miter gauge or as an index for a jig, then the miter slot has to be aligned to the blade, in which case your fence will then be aligned to the miter slot.

Michael Fortune has a bandsaw that he aligned the miter slot to the blade in 1976 -- Fine Woodworking's first issue was in the winter of 1975 and the second issue was not published until 1976. Not that the "age" of these techniques matters at all.

Screenshot 2023-02-03 at 5.14.51 PM.jpg

There's tons of jigs that one can build to use the miter slot, whether it's on the right or left side of the blade. For example, jigs to cut dovetails. Or to cut tapered (single or double tapered) laminations.

[Curt Harms]

I have an earlier version of the Kreg BS fence and it works pretty well, but the Kreg KMS 7200 looks much more precise. If you adjust the table so the miter slot is aligned with the cut line, you can eliminate blade drift entirely even when you change blades. I can change to different blades and still get no drift when ripping. I followed the techniques identified in this video and I can now use my fence for ripping/resawing and square making crosscuts.

The tricky part I found when doing this was figuring out the "angle" of the bandsaw blade, even the widest blade a 14" saw will mount - generally 3/4" minus gullets - isn't a lot of bearing surface to hold a straight edge to. I did adjust the table until I got the blade parallel to the miter slot. The saw does cut parallel to the fence/miter gauge with most blades. I have one blade that will drift while several others including a 1/2" Trimaster cut straight so I'm sure it's a blade issue not a saw setup issue.

[Paul Saffold]

Chris, Thanks for posting the video. It and his other bandsaw videos have a wealth of information and ideas for jigs and upgrades.

[Edward Weber]

I may be one of a small handful that never had an issue setting up a bandsaw, it just makes sense to me.
(spoiler)I align the blade (it's adjustable) not the fence.

As far as fences go, I prefer a simple HD, tablesaw style three point fence.
For some reason, I'll never understand. All the newer bandsaws seem to want to have some ridiculous proprietary fence that rides on an asymmetric aluminum extrusion.

I use older JET fences on my saws. Simple three point locking just like a table saw, rectangular steel tube for the front rail and can be used on both sides of the blade.
Align them to the miter slot, lock them down, and you're done.

[Cliff Polubinsky]

Edward,

I also adjust the blade to the fence/miter slot.

I set the table square to the saw frame then adjust the fence to the miter slot. Then I adjust the blade until it cuts parallel to the fence. Since the blade drift for a sharp blade is determined by where the blade rides on the crowned tire I make a series of rip cuts, adjusting the wheel tilt (which adjusts the drift) until the blade cuts straight. Dialing in the cut takes at most 10-15 minutes.

When I change the blade half of the time the new blade rides in the same spot so no adjustment is needed. If not I can dial it back in with a few test cuts.

It's a quick and easy process and gives me full use of the miter slot for jigs and the fence for straight rips.

Cliff

[Edward Weber]

Edward,

I also adjust the blade to the fence/miter slot.

I set the table square to the saw frame then adjust the fence to the miter slot. Then I adjust the blade until it cuts parallel to the fence. Since the blade drift for a sharp blade is determined by where the blade rides on the crowned tire I make a series of rip cuts, adjusting the wheel tilt (which adjusts the drift) until the blade cuts straight. Dialing in the cut takes at most 10-15 minutes.

When I change the blade half of the time the new blade rides in the same spot so no adjustment is needed. If not I can dial it back in with a few test cuts.

It's a quick and easy process and gives me full use of the miter slot for jigs and the fence for straight rips.

Cliff

Exactly the same way I've been doing it for 20 years or so.
A few small rips usually dial it in pretty quick. I can't imagine not being able to use a sled on my saws. Or adjusting the fence every time I change a blade.
I replaced the blade on my 17" saw yesterday and I had to adjust the tracking knob 1/4 turn, takes no time at all.

[Chris Parks]

The tricky part I found when doing this was figuring out the "angle" of the bandsaw blade, even the widest blade a 14" saw will mount - generally 3/4" minus gullets - isn't a lot of bearing surface to hold a straight edge to. I did adjust the table until I got the blade parallel to the miter slot. The saw does cut parallel to the fence/miter gauge with most blades. I have one blade that will drift while several others including a 1/2" Trimaster cut straight so I'm sure it's a blade issue not a saw setup issue.

The easiest method I have found is by putting a rare earth magnet on the blade and attaching a steel rule to the magnet slightly above the table.

[Tom Trees]

The easiest method I have found is by putting a rare earth magnet on the blade and attaching a steel rule to the magnet slightly above the table.

Used in conjunction with "123" blocks, or something similar of sorts, would make it much much easier, (same principal as what's sensible practice for plumbobs)
I made a rough and ready one before, and it's a trifle difficult to see, but....
I seen a youtube showing this, possibly Dennis on hooked on wood, can't remember, quite pleasing by comparison, and thankful for the tip, as I might have been bit too thick
to carry this principal over from the plumbob schooling.

Trouble is finding a nice steel rule or stock which would be suitable, the longer the better, guessing you folks can buy rare earth magnets locally(ish) too.
Those off the shelf types look too short to me.
Suppose this length would be just OK....if used in conjunction with the blocks.

Still though... hoping I don't have to use it anymore since I fixed my trunnion, as my saw seems to have taken a fall/something dropped onto the table, and my previous fix for it was pants, so needed an eye kept on it)
bandsaw buddy .JPG
https://i.postimg.cc/2SJ1Q9g1/bandsaw-buddy-JPG.jpgTom

[Edward Weber]

For those who use the above method (which don't advocate)

http://www.igaging.com/3in1-bandsaw-companion.html

The reason I don't like this method, is that simply aligning the blade to the fence doesn't insure a straight cut.
A blade may be aligned perfectly parallel to the fence and still drift in the cut. Blades cut where they naturally want to cut, not because you made it parallel to the fence.
Some often cut perfectly straight (as measured by the resulting cut) while be aligned a couple of degrees off.

[Tom Trees]

That's likely because of the complete ignorance of both manufacturers and users/gurus alike...
Unless perhaps "the holy trinity" above has been documented before somewhere?

If it does exist, then why isn't it common knowledge
I would'a done this ten years ago with my first new saw, although kinda happy I went bigger again, and learned about VFD's and the likes aswell.

This presents a gaping hole regarding any bandsaw setup, and all the rest, since I've had three lemons from all parts of the world, yada yada yada.
Patsy's old one, is worth making into lemonade, as those Italian castings are skookum as frig.
Attachment 495037

https://i.postimg.cc/wTZPHSKT/SAM-6921.jpg

Tom