Kölle 24" planer roller replacements

[Bill Dufour]

I thought it was just cheap lunchbox planers that used rubber outfeed rollers. Solid machines hold tolerances better and do not need rubber's flex to make up any derivations?
Bill D

[Patrick Kane]

Im pretty sure rubber is an option for the highest end planers--such as the OP's machine--and it gives you the ability to take super light cuts without marring the planed surface like a serrated/knurled steel roller would do. It is very rare that i see witness marks off my powermatic planer. I would need to take a 1/32" cut or less to see those marks on my planed surfaces. However, i do see the advantage, and definitely the advantage of duel outfeed rollers. I believe the T45 uses a very similar setup, and that is largely considered to be the industry leading machine. I just looked and the SCM s7 also offers duel rubber outfeed rollers. Now, the downside to steel rollers is obviously wear. I could use my machine for the next 100 years and i doubt i would ever have a complete chunk tear free of the roller like the OP's. Having them recovered and swapping them every 3-4 decades doesnt seem like that bad of a trade off. I dont know if the OP has dated his machines, but im pretty sure that planer and jointer are late 80s. They have outlived their lifespan no doubt because of the one man shop they came from.

[Chris Pyle]

Im pretty sure rubber is an option for the highest end planers--such as the OP's machine--and it gives you the ability to take super light cuts without marring the planed surface like a serrated/knurled steel roller would do. It is very rare that i see witness marks off my powermatic planer. I would need to take a 1/32" cut or less to see those marks on my planed surfaces. However, i do see the advantage, and definitely the advantage of duel outfeed rollers. I believe the T45 uses a very similar setup, and that is largely considered to be the industry leading machine. I just looked and the SCM s7 also offers duel rubber outfeed rollers. Now, the downside to steel rollers is obviously wear. I could use my machine for the next 100 years and i doubt i would ever have a complete chunk tear free of the roller like the OP's. Having them recovered and swapping them every 3-4 decades doesnt seem like that bad of a trade off. I dont know if the OP has dated his machines, but im pretty sure that planer and jointer are late 80s. They have outlived their lifespan no doubt because of the one man shop they came from.

Thanks for the info Patrick, the machines are actually late 90s but I can still handle a recover every 2 decades without a worry. I wonder if it'd be easier to find a maintenance manual for the T45 and S7 so I can figure out what settings are suggested by Martin and SCM for their machines. Perhaps starting there when recalibrating wouldn't be a bad first pass.

[Warren Lake]

I think they have different machining depending on brands, some leave marks more than others on light passes. Have found rubber on the Woodmaster grabs better than one past General planer did.

[Chris Pyle]

Thanks to Joe for putting me in contact with someone who had a manual and was kind enough to get it to me. It was a huge benefit in getting the rollers out.

outfeedrollerbearings.jpg
outfeedrollers.jpg


Once i had the rollers removed, I started testing just to see how the cutterhead aligned to the planer table and I found a .007"+ variance across the length of the cutterhead. I looked all over for some kind of mechanism to adjust the bed or cutterhead and this is the most promising thing, albeit rather small:

Planerbedscrew.jpg
planerbedscrew2.jpg
Could these be the planer table height adjustments?

Also, for the outfeed roller housings/bearings, do I just use a basic ball bearing grease? ie - any type of lithium grease?
outfeedrollerbearing.jpg
outfeedrollerbearing2.jpg

Thanks in advance to anyone who can offer help.

[Bill Dufour]

My powermatic 18" planer specs NGLI#1 grease for most of the bearings like that. It is a lighter/softer lithium grease. Most grease is NGLI #2 which is thicker and designed to get softer and flow better at high rpm like wheel bearing not bed rollers rpm's.
None of the local autoparts stores seem to have NGLI#1 grease. I wonder if cotton picker grease is #1. Many sellers do not indicate the NGLI number.
BillD

EDIT:
Cotton picker is #00
Corn head is #0

[Bill Dufour]

Your grease does not need to be high pressure, high temperature , nor waterproof.
Bill D

[Chris Pyle]

Thanks Bill, I'll start looking for NGLI#1 grease. I found a local supplier who stocks Lubriplate 1552, which was suggested to me for the cutterhead bearings so I'm going to see if they have any NGLI #1 grease in stock.

[Jerry Bruette]

Do those blocks have grease zerks? We had a machine at work that had similar looking bearings and the manufacturer recommend not lubricating them.

If you have the means to do it I would measure the bearings for concentricity before putting them back together. Now's the time to correct any problems with worn components.

[Chris Pyle]

They do not have zerks. The only available zerks are for the cutterhead on the planer (and jointer). The manual suggests adding grease but I wanted to be certain I used the correct type. They have shields on one side.

I know nothing about measuring bearings for concentricity so I'll do some reading up tonight and reply tomorrow. Can I just use dial calipers inside the bearing at multiple points?

[Jerry Bruette]

They do not have zerks. The only available zerks are for the cutterhead on the planer (and jointer). The manual suggests adding grease but I wanted to be certain I used the correct type. They have shields on one side.

I know nothing about measuring bearings for concentricity so I'll do some reading up tonight and reply tomorrow. Can I just use dial calipers inside the bearing at multiple points?

Yep, that's what I mean. Just make sure they're not oval.

[Kevin Jenness]

Once i had the rollers removed, I started testing just to see how the cutterhead aligned to the planer table and I found a .007"+ variance across the length of the cutterhead. I looked all over for some kind of mechanism to adjust the bed or cutterhead and this is the most promising thing, albeit rather small:

Planerbedscrew.jpg
planerbedscrew2.jpg
Could these be the planer table height adjustments?

How is the planer table height adjusted? On my old Powermatic there are two acme threaded rods running through threaded flange nuts set in the table which can be rotated to dial in the side to side height. Perhaps the Kolle has something similar. If there are four posts connected by a chain you may be able to shim under or rotate their bases. If the cutterhead has straight knives with gibs you can set them level with the bed. Does the manual not cover this?

[Bill Dufour]

See page 6+7 for lube recommendations for the Powermatic 18" planer.

Bill D.
Lubriplate 630AA is the grease I was talking about.

https://www.lubriplate.com/Products/...ries/NO-630-AA

http://vintagemachinery.org/pubs/655/825.pdf

[Joe Calhoon]

Chris,
the Kolle feed rolls look similar to Martins except they appear to be one piece. Mine are 3 pieces for one span.
No idea on the grease, mine has sealed bearings for the feed rollers but I think Bill is on the right track.
the Kundig sander has rollers with zerks and they recommended Kluber Staburags NBU 12. It was freaking expensive but I figured if they recommend I better go with it.
7B00F029-8913-4A91-BEAA-E7DE056DBAE7.jpg

[Bill Dufour]

Be careful for the high speed bearings. Too much grease is bad and will cause premature failure. About 1/3 fill is standard.
Bill D