Did you stain with trans tint? BrianOriginally Posted by glenn bradley
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Did you stain with trans tint? Brian
No this is shellac only. Sorry I should have been more complete in what I was trying to say. Oil finished (no colorant) and top coated walnut will lighten over time. I prefer no colorants but with woods that lighten this is not really an option if you want to achieve a certain look. My current method is to Transtint dye the oil blend I use to get a color that is close to freshly oiled walnut.
GnG Low CoD (287).jpg
The finish looks like this 7 years later (I literally just went and snapped this pic) even though the piece stands by glass french doors.
Walnut 7 years later.jpg
Getting this long term solution took a bit of fooling around but I am pretty happy with the effect of keeping that "just oiled" look over the years.
I do a similar thing for cherry. People often want a more rich looking initial color but I know it will darken over time. I give it a bit of a tint to look like so.
Niki CT Dresser (160).jpg
And it still looks pretty much like this 6 years later. The natural darkening of cherry will eventually take over. This is quite a bit darker than the salmon color of fresh cherry under a non-colored oil finish as seen on the left.
Pic boxes round 2 (26).jpg
The box on the right was made a year earlier. Both are just a clear, de-waxed shellac. Is this making sense?
Last edited by glenn bradley; 02-12-2023 at 7:02 PM.
"A hen is only an egg's way of making another egg".
– Samuel Butler
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Thanks Glenn, nice work. Brian
Last edited by Jim Becker; 02-13-2023 at 9:00 AM. Reason: fixed quote tagging
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Air dried walnut, usual shop furniture finish of blo and turpentine. Just about twenty years apart, always had good indirect natural light in Arizona.
You can see that the color mellowed, but it's not looking like butternut. Mostly. There are a couple areas that look a lot more like sapwood now, kind of interesting to see.
~mike
happy in my mud hut
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Wow, that looks more like mahogany now.
John
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My current method is to Transtint dye the oil blend I use to get a color that is close to freshly oiled walnut.
Glenn, how do you mix Transtint dye in your oil blend?
John
With all the warnings we read about stirring instead of shaking finishes this will sound terrible. I pad on my finishes for the most part. I use short, wide mouth Mason jars to decant finish during a session. If I will use a lot of finish I mix it (I use an oil varnish blend) in a larger container and then pour it into the wide mouth jars as I go. During the initial mix and occasionally through the process I put the lid on and shake it. I have leftover finishes that have set for many months after a project and the color remains homogeneous. I still shake them prior to use because that's just how I am.
"A hen is only an egg's way of making another egg".
– Samuel Butler
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I'm under the impression that Transtint is only for water or alcohol soluble solutions, not for oil. (I admit to adding it to epoxy, however)
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The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...
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You replied to a thread last January regarding using Watco Dark Walnut Danish oil on Walnut. You mentioned tinting. Are you indicating you use tinted dye first, then the Watco? Or just Watco? Any color shifting since then ? Thanks!
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Arnold, I tried to reply to your message via the PM, but in case that failed, I meant the Watco that comes tinted: I can find Watco at my hardware store in: Dark Walnut, Light Walnut, Golden Oak, Cherry, Natural and maybe a couple other colors. I am not usually trying to match colors just even out the wood tones, so I use Dark or Light - whichever can I have is open.
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