[OP]
Contributor
I'm taking down three ash trees that are close to the house and I'd like to maximize my yield. I'm going to process a lot of it the way John K Jordan describes in his video (which is really great). But I'd like to get some larger blanks for larger bowls so I'll be leaving bark on, etc on these. Aside from armrsesl on the ends, what else can I do to preserve the larger pieces and prevent them from cracking (I understand ash is prone to this)? Any other things to consider? Any tips? Thanks all.
"The reward of a thing well done is having done it." - Ralph Waldo Emerson
Member
Depending on where you are, my preference is to leave the logs whole, and cut them up as needed. Wood glue on the end grain works as well as any other log sealer. I have seen some that like to use the portable log mills to cut slabs. While that does work, I would not use it. Mainly each section of the log is different, and I get better yield out of the log if I cut off sections, then maximize the blanks I get from each section.
robo hippy
Contributor
What do you put on the ends of the blanks? Never heard of armrsesl. If you meant arm r seal, that isn't meant for outdoors. I guess you mean anchorseal? If the ash trees died from emerald ash borer, you will have holes and trails under the bark and into the sapwood. Maybe even live larvae!
Last edited by Richard Coers; 01-15-2023 at 6:12 PM.
[OP]
Contributor
I can't keep the logs whole (wish I could) so I'm thinking of cutting oversized. Just not sure how oversized I should go. 20 inches? 24? 30?
Yes, I meant anchorseal, sorry, was doing too many things at once (and typing on a mobile device). Only one of the trees is problematic, the other three are coming down for preventive maintenance.
Moderator
Advice from some pros recommended to not accumulate more big green wood chunks for bowls than you can at least rough turn within a few weeks, even if well sealed. While you may be better off in the wet winter than the warm summer accumulating too much will likely result in a pile of firewood.Originally Posted by John Kananis
If cutting oversize you are still keeping logs, just not long logs. You probably should allow at least 6-8" extra on each end you can cut off and throw away, more if possible. 6-8” is about how much people like the other J. Jordan, the famous woodturner, cuts off the ends to get to good wood beneath the inevitable end grain cracks. Store the short logs off the ground and out of the sun. Cut back to good wood and turn immediately.
I’ve had moderate success with short-term storage of round chunks by sealing the ends then stacking one on top the other, a piece of plywood on the bottom to keep it out of the dirt and another piece (or a sacrificial round chunk) on the top. Sort of like storing a short log vertically. Each piece protects the next. Sometimes I do this so when I have a few minutes I can go out and grab a chunk without firing up the chainsaw. (I’m usually grabbing a chunk to process into smaller blanks to dry but the principle is the same.) This has worked especially well with cherry rounds on cool weather.
If you have the means another way to store wood blanks indefinitely is by submerging them in clean water. Look up “ponding”. Another way is by freezing but that’s impractical for most people. When I tested this I wrapped the wood in plastic wrap and put it in a chest freezer. It was still good 10 years later.
[OP]
Contributor
Temperatures have been higher than usual for this time of year but I expect they'll fall to freezing quite soon and I'm not taking the trees down until mid next month so that should work for a couple months - can't imagine needing longer to get through it all. I'm finishing a couple of projects first and then intend to spend the majority of 6 - 8 weeks (barring some things I just have to do) on the lathe, so good timing. I'll also cut them long and just take them to the chainsaw before turning.
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