Hammer K3 accessories?

[Thomas Crawford]

Closing in on finalizing my order, currently looking at this:

K3 Winner 48x48

- sliding table width extension
- handwheel with blade angle
- 300mm diamond blade
- mitre fence and mitre guide
- telescopic extension for crosscut fence

I'm planning on a Bora 3550 for the mobile base instead of their mobility kit.

The only remaining options I see are a longer crosscut fence (this one comes with 900mm), crosscut fence stops, edging shoe.

No scoring blade, no outrigger. I rarely use sheet goods so I can cut them down with a tracksaw into manageable pieces when I need them.

I'll need a dado stack and found a Forest Dado King to order.

[Aaron Inami]

I see that you are not including a scoring blade. Even though you are cutting down sheets with a track saw, the main reason behind a scoring blade is to prevent chip-out when cutting plywood or melamine. The chip-out can actually look pretty bad, depending on what material you are cutting. But it's up to you.

If you want a longer crosscut fence than the 900mm, I would just recommend going up to the 79x48 model which includes an outrigger system.

You might have challenges trying to use that crosscut fence extension without any outrigger frame support. I don't have this saw, so I cannot comment for sure.

[Erik Loza]

Tommy, you may already be aware of this but the diamond-coated sawblade will require a special riving knife, due to how thin it is.

Erik

[Thomas Crawford]

Tommy, you may already be aware of this but the diamond-coated sawblade will require a special riving knife, due to how thin it is.

Erik

thanks, did not know this - better to just use normal blades?

[Aaron Inami]

The diamond saw blade is kind of a one-blade solution. If you have to switch it out, then you have to deal with different size kerfs. This means that your crosscut stop and rip fence would need to be re-aligned for the different thickness blade.

I would just go for standard blades. I recommend the Tenryu blades, which can be easily gotten from Amazon with quick shipping. They are actually much quieter than the Felder blades:

Rip blade:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003O3J2V8/

Crosscut blade (which makes an excellent cut):
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003O3CYEK/


Combination blade (if you want to go this route):
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003O3F3FW/

The Tenryu blades are all 0.128" thick (which is slightly different than Felder's 3.2mm = 0.126").

[Thomas Crawford]

Thanks Aaron, that's helpful. I'm going to drop the diamond blade.

[Jim Becker]

I agree with opting for "normal" blades with the typical .125" kerf...it provides you with a lot of options, utility and optimization opportunities.

Don't underestimate the utility of having the outrigger. While you may not use it much nor keep it on your machine full time, that extra support can be really helpful for all kinds of cross cutting activity. I'm primarily a solid stock worker, too, but my outrigger stays on all the time now in the new shop. You can hang it on the wall when not in use. (I hang mine on the end of my right-side table, actually, in the rare situation where I need it off the saw) What's really important here is that you assemble your order not just for "today" but also for longer term utility...having to add things like the outrigger later can and will be a whole lot more expensive. It's best to bundle while you are negotiating your "deal" up front.

[Aaron Inami]

I agree with Jim on the outrigger support. Actually, if you have room, I would just recommend getting the 79x48 model. It's actually on a really good sale right now ($2100 off). With current sale prices, the 79x48 is only $1200 more than the 48x48. However, that $1200 buys you a whole lot:

- longer 78" sliding table
- outrigger support for longer crosscuts
- longer crosscut fence
- mechanical scoring unit

The scoring unit itself is a $532 option. The outrigger table is $1100. so the upgrade essentially pays for itself.

The 48x48 has a 48" sliding table. However, be aware that once you add clamps and crosscut fence, your cutting length is reduced down to something like 38-40". That's not a long cut capacity.

[Derek Cohen]

Closing in on finalizing my order, currently looking at this:

K3 Winner 48x48

- sliding table width extension
- handwheel with blade angle
- 300mm diamond blade
- mitre fence and mitre guide
- telescopic extension for crosscut fence

I'm planning on a Bora 3550 for the mobile base instead of their mobility kit.

The only remaining options I see are a longer crosscut fence (this one comes with 900mm), crosscut fence stops, edging shoe.

No scoring blade, no outrigger. I rarely use sheet goods so I can cut them down with a tracksaw into manageable pieces when I need them.

I'll need a dado stack and found a Forest Dado King to order.

Hi Thomas

I have the 48"x48" K3. The reason I went with this size was space. However, a longer slider wagon would not be of much interest since I do not work with sheet goods (and on rare occasions, if I did, I would use a tracksaw). Working only with hardwoods, I do not have a scoring blade.

The diamond blade as been described in superlatives by the few who have one. It is intended to do it all. Personally, I use a quality combination blade for everything, although I do have dedicated rip- and crosscut blades. Only use 12" blades.

The standard crosscut fence meets 99.5% of my needs. I do not have an outrigger, and the crosscut fence is at the start of the slider wagon. I think this is more ergonomic as it offers support when pushing.

If you wish to add another fence, get a short rip fence for use as a depth stop. I use both the slider (with a parallel guide) and the rip fence for ripping.

The outfeed space is filled in with a router table. The main rip fence has a micro adjuster, and this is also used for the router fence.

The K3 is stationary in my workshop and so the mobility kit surfices.

Check out this page for the accessories I built for my K3:

http://www.inthewoodshop.com/Powered...ery/index.html

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Mike Wilkins]

Another vote for the outrigger set-up and scoring option. I don't use the outrigger often, so it hangs on the wall ready for action. I have a short stroke slider so I can easily cross-cut sheet goods and long boards with plenty of support. For long rips on plywood I break out the track saw or remove the cross-cut fence and rip like a standard cabinet saw.
With Felder/Hammer I would suggest ordering any options at the same time you order the machine. Lead times for items not normally kept in stock can be long; I ordered a miter gauge and 900 mm cross-cut fence for my Hammer F3 shaper in early February. It arrived mid-September.
Good luck with your decision.

[Thomas Crawford]

Well I got one in stock, so if I want the outrigger later its the same price. I'm going to try it without it. Hopefully will have it in a couple weeks tops. Excited to use it.

If anyone else is interested in the 48x48 K3 Winner there is also one in transit that currently is unsold.

[Dan Friedrichs]

I would strongly suggest carefully reading Derek's post and checking out his website with details on his saw. There is much wisdom, there.

I have the 78" table and am often finding it too long (in the way) or too short (I prefer to keep the crosscut fence at the start of the wagon, like Derek, and with the outrigger on in that configuration, the travel length is <48").

The scoring unit is invaluable for any sort of plywood. Even if you're just making shop jigs, the perfect, chip-free edge is a huge benefit. I would never go back to not having it.

I don't know how useful the long fence is without the outrigger. That would be a lot of wood cantilevered off the wagon.

[Thomas Crawford]

I'd appreciate any pointers to good F&F jig instructions/usage if you have a website or video that was helpful.

[Aaron Inami]

There are a variety of ways to make Fritz & Franz jig. Here's a couple things you can look at:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aoAPVQ2sqMc

https://groups.io/g/felderownersgrou...4321465#125689

[Thomas Crawford]

Does anyone use the box-joint type blades instead of a dado stack on the K3?

Something like this -> https://www.forrestblades.com/saw-bl...5-16-3-8-cuts/