Hammer K3 slider T-nuts?

[Michael Drew]

My curiosity makes me ask what jigs and stuff do you want these for?

I just wanted a few for use with jigs, like a F&F. I want to leave them in the slider T-slot, but they would be self centering, and somewhat snug fitting so I didn't have to hunt for them when screwing a faster to them, through the jig or device I happen to be using.

This really wasn't supposed to take this much effort. Seriously, I'm somewhat surprised to be looking this hard for the stupid little buggers, or having to ask. I thought for sure someone would know off the top of their head. "Oh yeah, these worked perfectly, here's a link".....

I will most likely just make some stock that I can cut into shorter lengths for the T-slots in this sliding table.

[Rich Markiewicz]

Hey Michael - yeah, another one of those little things that take up too much time [!]
McMaster-Carr has t-nuts and weld-nuts, but haven't seen any with alignment ball.
https://www.mcmaster.com/tee-nuts/lo...h-projections/

As said above, Ramon Valdez may have something that works. Good luck...

[Rich Markiewicz]

80/20 may have something that would work.

https://8020.net/fasteningmethods/ha...allspring.html

[Robyn Horton]

How would either Phenolic or HDPE with these 5/16" X 18 Threaded inserts for the threads ?

https://www.amazon.com/Z-Externally-...%2C100&sr=8-29

or these in Brass
https://www.amazon.ca/Z-LOK-Threaded...l%2C120&sr=1-3

[Dan Friedrichs]

A few dumb questions related to this:

1) What's the purpose of the "alignment ball" - does it go "up" or "down", and what does it get you?

2) I've noticed in the T-slot there is a hex-cap screw near one end that prevents easy sliding of the T-nut unless it's held tight to the top of the slot (so it clears the screw head). It occurs to me that I've fought around this for years without considering what that screw is for or if it even needs to be there. Anyone know?

3) Given the length of most sliders, would drop-in nuts be more useful?

[Steve Wurster]

A few dumb questions related to this:

1) What's the purpose of the "alignment ball" - does it go "up" or "down", and what does it get you?

2) I've noticed in the T-slot there is a hex-cap screw near one end that prevents easy sliding of the T-nut unless it's held tight to the top of the slot (so it clears the screw head). It occurs to me that I've fought around this for years without considering what that screw is for or if it even needs to be there. Anyone know?

3) Given the length of most sliders, would drop-in nuts be more useful?

1. I think the alignment ball only really helps with the 80-20 stuff or equivalent, and even then I'm not sure. I don't think it serves any purpose in this scenario.

2. That hex-cap screw is the stop for the short crosscut fence. You bring the fence in from the "front" and bump it up against the stop and then use the 90 degree stop on the carriage itself to achieve fence alignment. People who only use the outrigger-based fence will probably remove that hex-cap screw as it serves no purpose for them.

3. I have yet to find anything that really works well in that scenario. That's why I just have a set of threaded blocks sitting in the slot all the time. They have just enough weight / friction to not fly out on their own. And if I need to clamp something in the section before the hex-cap screw then I have an extra threaded block for that purpose; I can just slide it in when needed.

[Michael Drew]

I want to drop a jig onto the slider, as most do, but to also have the option to "lock it down" anywhere on the length of the table. There are other clamping fixtures that I think would be handy if I could do this. Having a T-nut that is somewhat snug in the T-slot, and I don't have to spend time fishing for, but could easily reposition in anywhere I want with little effort is appealing to me. Over the decades of using tools, the ones that get worn out are the ones that are super handy and easy to use. The ones that sit in drawer are the ones that aggravate me - even if they are the 'best' tool in the shop for the job at hand.

These little nuts for the extruded stuff are super handy. They'd be equally handy in the above application for my slider table - if I could one that fit correctly.

Here's couple pics to help the visual aspect of what I'm talking about.

This is some extrusion with one of these nuts fit to the slot. You can see how the ball holds it up and centered. Easy to get a fastener into, and it won't slide around on it's own.

20230108_092943.jpg

End view of the slider.

20230108_090340.jpg

This is a section of the aforementioned HDPE that I got from Felder. I had to run it threw the planner to reduce the height of raised portion that fits the slider slot on my Hammer. It extended above the table height about 25 thou, and prevented the phenolic plate from securing tightly. This is for my Kreg auto clamp.

20230108_090418.jpg

And of course my pictures are rotated......

[Dan Friedrichs]

Thanks, Steve! I don't even own a short fence, so I've been fighting that hex nut for no reason....

[Steve Wurster]

Thanks, Steve! I don't even own a short fence, so I've been fighting that hex nut for no reason....

No problem. Feel free to remove that!

[Steve Wurster]

I want to drop a jig onto the slider, as most do, but to also have the option to "lock it down" anywhere on the length of the table. There are other clamping fixtures that I think would be handy if I could do this. Having a T-nut that is somewhat snug in the T-slot, and I don't have to spend time fishing for, but could easily reposition in anywhere I want with little effort is appealing to me. Over the decades of using tools, the ones that get worn out are the ones that are super handy and easy to use. The ones that sit in drawer are the ones that aggravate me - even if they are the 'best' tool in the shop for the job at hand.

These little nuts for the extruded stuff are super handy. They'd be equally handy in the above application for my slider table - if I could one that fit correctly.

...

This is some extrusion with one of these nuts fit to the slot. You can see how the ball holds it up and centered. Easy to get a fastener into, and it won't slide around on it's own.

...

Oh, I see how the ball works now. Yeah, that design won't really work on the slider unless the blocks are much larger. When I did use those on the slider I had them upside down compared to that picture, and the tapered aspect let them self-center in the slot. But due to the size of them compared to the slot they move around too easily and aren't lined-up by default.

As I noted before I use tapped blocks instead. The first picture shows one of the aluminum ones I bought from Ramon Valdez, next to one I made in the shop. I have 6 of these total (2 from Ramon) and leave 5 of them in the slot full-time with the 6th one sitting out in case I need it at the way front of the wagon in front of where the crosscut fence goes.

IMG-0216.jpg

Here's what the aluminum one looks like from the end. It's a "snug" fit in that it doesn't move about much on its own, but a simple push with a finger and it will easily slide down the slot. The wooden ones I made are nearly identical in size.

IMG-0217.jpg

And here's what it looks like with a Kreg Automaxx clamp and accompanying clamp base "bolted" down to the slider. The clamp and base are bolted together all the time using the bolt that comes with the clamp. I just place the unit above one of the blocks and drop the knurled bolt over top and turn until it locks. The aluminum blocks came with 2 of the pictured bolts but did not come with that nut. That nut is not threaded to the bolt; it's just there as a spacer. This setup works well although the bolts do tend to loosen a little bit after releasing the clamp.

IMG-0218.jpg

[Chris Parks]

I just wanted a few for use with jigs, like a F&F. I want to leave them in the slider T-slot, but they would be self centering, and somewhat snug fitting so I didn't have to hunt for them when screwing a faster to them, through the jig or device I happen to be using.

This really wasn't supposed to take this much effort. Seriously, I'm somewhat surprised to be looking this hard for the stupid little buggers, or having to ask. I thought for sure someone would know off the top of their head. "Oh yeah, these worked perfectly, here's a link".....

I will most likely just make some stock that I can cut into shorter lengths for the T-slots in this sliding table.

I like a lot of others here have been using an F&F jig for many years and it works by not clamping it to the table. I would be interested in what jigs others clamp to the table.

[Mike Wilkins]

Thanks for this thread gentlemen. I am looking for something similar for my Hammer F3 shaper to make some jigs. I have some HDPE material that I can machine and thread to make some T-nuts for both the top channel and the side. Time to get busy.

[Jim Becker]

I like a lot of others here have been using an F&F jig for many years and it works by not clamping it to the table. I would be interested in what jigs others clamp to the table.

Chris brings up a good point. One side of the F&F, usually the right, really cannot be clamped, either. It has to be able to slide laterally so one can position the material between the two elements and then is brought tight to the workpiece with one's hand to "clamp" the workpiece as it's pushed through the cut.

I have a different brand machine, but I had no problem machining some scrap oak to fit the tee slot in the wagon to be use with jigs and fixtures as necessary. I went the simple flanged threaded insert route for when clamping action is required.

[Michael Drew]

I like a lot of others here have been using an F&F jig for many years and it works by not clamping it to the table. I would be interested in what jigs others clamp to the table.

I want the ability to position the forward piece of the jig anywhere I want on the table, verse being forced to use the foward fence. The runner in the forward piece will be segregated. I got the idea from the Extreme Woodworker. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OokHlPj4vqQ&t=356s

He has a Felder saw. Uses one of these nuts I'm trying to find, but the Felder has a different sized T-slot than Hammer.

[Steve Wurster]

I want the ability to position the forward piece of the jig anywhere I want on the table, verse being forced to use the foward fence. The runner in the forward piece will be segregated. I got the idea from the Extreme Woodworker. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OokHlPj4vqQ&t=356s

He has a Felder saw. Uses one of these nuts I'm trying to find, but the Felder has a different sized T-slot than Hammer.

I do the same with mine, although I can't remember if I got the idea from the Extreme Woodworker or not (been a while since I watched that video and I just redid my F&F very recently).

IMG-0224.jpg