I have a couple of projects I'd like to refinish

[Aaron Heck]

I haven't done any projects in a good number of years, but I have a few projects I did maybe 15 years ago and i probably used either:

Seal a Cell/Arm-R-Seal
Waterlox Orig
Wipe on poly

from what I can remember, those were my big finish choices back in the day.

Is there anything wrong with hitting these projects with a sander to remove the finish and then applying something like Odie's Oil over it to restore them? That seems to be the finish of the day, which is the only reason I mention it. I have not used it yet.

I have searched online for steps to try and determine the finish used and it seems rather complicated and don't know if I really need all those steps if I'm not doing fine furniture restoration.

On a side note, I have a cocobolo top/maple base table that I wanted to start on. I did start sanding and noticed that before I even started the finish was somewhat tacky. hoping the sanding removes this.

[Dennis Jarchow]

The things I would be thinking about is how deep into the wood did the previous finish soak, and if you can sand down that deep; especially with wood with deep grain or deep pores. Also, how the Odie's would react with any old finish left behind both in application/curing and appearance.

[Aaron Heck]

yeah, I'm really stuck on this one. Sanding doesn't seem to be getting me where I wanted to go. thing is...I don't know my plan B nor what to use for a new finish once I get this other one off. I really thought this issue was more common but perhaps either nobody refinsihes their projects or writes down what finish they used.

[Frank Gilbert]

I have a question that may help.
Pine bookcase finish thinking Tried&True. Would anyone explain which is best use for this application. I am thinking the Tried&True Danish oil over the Tried & True Varnish Oil. Same company, however, apparently different applications which I cannot get straight. The bookcase is large and once stocked there will not be much surface showing. I do want the warm soft feel that oil provides. For the original poster I will say that Tried&True oil wipe on and off is very good. No need for gloves or mask as natural ingredients. Watco Danish oil instructs to open windows for ventilation.
I have used Watco and Tried&True. You could not go wrong with either if directions are followed.

[Jim Becker]

I have a question that may help.
Pine bookcase finish thinking Tried&True. Would anyone explain which is best use for this application. I am thinking the Tried&True Danish oil over the Tried & True Varnish Oil. Same company, however, apparently different applications which I cannot get straight. The bookcase is large and once stocked there will not be much surface showing. I do want the warm soft feel that oil provides. For the original poster I will say that Tried&True oil wipe on and off is very good. No need for gloves or mask as natural ingredients. Watco Danish oil instructs to open windows for ventilation.
I have used Watco and Tried&True. You could not go wrong with either if directions are followed.

Use either one but not both, IMHO. I personally never liked the Varnish Oil with the resin; I use the oil-only formula instead of regular BLO and have used the oil/wax version on decorative items...as well as the cherry desk I built Professor Dr. SWMBO in 1997...looks nearly like new with only a few refreshes with wax over the years. (I don't recommend it for heavy use furniture like a kitchen table, however)

[Frank Gilbert]

Use either one but not both, IMHO. I personally never liked the Varnish Oil with the resin; I use the oil-only formula instead of regular BLO and have used the oil/wax version on decorative items...as well as the cherry desk I built Professor Dr. SWMBO in 1997...looks nearly like new with only a few refreshes with wax over the years. (I don't recommend it for heavy use furniture like a kitchen table, however)

Thank you and interesting about the cherry desk. I would like to see a photo. If only I had kept notes on the finish I have used on each project it would be helpful. The only refinishing regrets have involved paint removal chemicals such as citrus based. I may have been to blame so not throwing the manufacturer under the bus. The project done for my grand daughter involved Honduras mahogany 1940's bedroom furniture.The current generation in charge of the world does not like brown furniture. I used citrus based paint remover from the pieces which had been painted by my father in the 1960's. This action revealed beautiful wood grain and color and in spite of my protestations otherwise the wife and daughter insist I paint over the Mona Lisa of wood furniture.This was for my granddaughter so I chose latex paint as it is non toxic and with all the feelings of marching towards death I applied the paint which would not dry. I think the wood rebelled at once again being painted. 1940's furniture was tastefully ornate and therefore not a flat wood surface to work with but a lot of small pieces to clean out. I used dental picks to clean out the carved pieces. I did not need notes to remember the agony of doing twice what was a terrible task. After removing the just painted latex this time using the cancerous causing old fashioned paint remover I once again painted over beautiful wood. There remained small areas that did not dry for a long time. My dad was a 1950's woodworker and very much not leaving anything to chance so this made stripping a tough job. It seemed to me there were two layers of primer and two layers of paint. I am thinking all with lead as an ingredient. Very much appreciate your responding.

[George Yetka]

Aaron I would think a product like odies/osmo/rubio would do poorly over an old sanded finish. you would have to sand to a point that the pours are all open again in order to get one of these new waxed oils to work well. It could be done but it would be a lot less work to apply a film finish after a light sanding. These oil finishes are my go to because they are exceptionally easy. I have a good sprayer that I have never used because of these products. My journey started with WOP and rattlecan Polycrylic and a few others. Then I found Osmo and later rubio and odies. Somewhere shortly after I got my fuji, inherited from my grandfather. Havent tried it yet.