Blade wobble at startup

[Lee Schierer]

Thanks, Lee, but I prefer the thin kerf blade. The one you referenced is a good blade, though.

What benefit do you think you are getting from a thin kerf blade instead of a full kerf blade?

[David Falkner]

Do you have the big “stabilizer” washers on both sides ? Failure to use them is ,I think a common cause of wobble. Seen it in a commercial
shop with a dumb-bell foreman. Company had dumb-bell policy of giving the foremen extra bonus for not buying stuff needed . A used saw
might not come with the correct washers.

I bought the saw new in 1990 and I'm still using the same 2.5" stabilizers that came with the saw.

The stabilizers I’ve seen would not interfere with cuts. Can’t imagine that with modern liability laws that they would sell any that could
impede full standard range of cut.

The ones on there now are the 2.5" that came with the saw; no, they don't interfere with the cut. I've not checked into aftermarket stabilizers.

What benefit do you think you are getting from a thin kerf blade instead of a full kerf blade?

Less wood removed in a cut. I work with a lot of exotic woods and fine domestic hardwoods and want to make as small a cut as possible. If I was just cutting Pine for crafts and such or cutting sheet goods where I may want a flat bottom for a dado I'd have a full kerf blade in a heartbeat but I rarely work with those.

[Lee Schierer]

Less wood removed in a cut. I work with a lot of exotic woods and fine domestic hardwoods and want to make as small a cut as possible. If I was just cutting Pine for crafts and such or cutting sheet goods where I may want a flat bottom for a dado I'd have a full kerf blade in a heartbeat but I rarely work with those.

I don't know what rpm the wobble you have observed occurs, but if you saw slows down to that rpm range during any cut the wobble will be there making your kerf wider.

[John Kananis]

IMHO: I don't like thin kerf blades for deep cuts (or in general really). That said, I own two thin kerf blades, the forest ply veneer blade and a Freud glue line rip that hasn't come out of the draw in many years.

[David Falkner]

I don't know what rpm the wobble you have observed occurs, but if you saw slows down to that rpm range during any cut the wobble will be there making your kerf wider.

LOL! I've never seen any cut slow this saw down! There have been a couple of times where a board closed up on the blade and I fought like crazy to hold the board down, hoping the saw would stall but it never even changed pitch.

IMHO: I don't like thin kerf blades for deep cuts (or in general really). That said, I own two thin kerf blades, the forest ply veneer blade and a Freud glue line rip that hasn't come out of the draw in many years.

I've had no issues with this one, suits my needs perfectly.

[John Kananis]

Btw, I really like your Pantagraph design.

[David Falkner]

Btw, I really like your Pantagraph design.

Thanks, John! I had forgotten there was a video on that. Thanks for checking it out!

[Mel Fulks]

I just remembered that many years ago when I worked in a mill that was opened about 1900 ,we had good on site sharpener who did all.
He said that the saws (blades) would get warped from heat . He used a thick steel machined plate to check for saw flatness, then hammered
them flat ,( I’ve forgotten the details on how). He also took in outside work. When he started the tapping he turned oven a 5 minute egg
timer , I think it was 5. If he straightened saw in the 5 minutes there was no extra charge. All the saws we used were high grade .

[David Falkner]

Pretty cool story, Mel. Probably not a lot of guys left around like that.