Shop flooring over concrete?

[Bryan Hall]

I need to make a legitimate flooring upgrade in the shop. Due to sore feet, knees, back, I've tried all sorts of boots and various floor mats around the shop which has helped a lot, but I need to jut bite the bullet and get the whole shop done. I'm assuming that going with a heavy duty rubber mat, interlocking, is the best choice but am wondering if others would agree. If so, what brands, thickness, etc do you recommend? If not, what other option should I be considering?

[Tim Elett]

What I did was laid down furing strips in a grid and then 1/2 inch polystyrene insulation on concrete then 3/4 ply wood for floor. I figured that the rubber mat would get as cold as the concrete floor . The wood also is softer than the concrete. And warmer.

[Christopher Charles]

T&g osb. Ideally over vapor barrier, sleepers and foam board insulation.

[Jim Barkelew]

I just finished laying 3/4 ply on 2x4 sleepers for the same reason, my feet hurt, concrete is cold, concrete is hard. My shop floor is also 5 inches out of level so shimming the sleepers made things level. I didn't use T&G because if I ever need to pull up a section of floor, I just have to remove the screws.

Jim

[Jim Becker]

If you have the ability to shuffle things around, horse stall mats are a good option for a woodworking shop floor...resilient enough for point-loads, but cushioning, too. Not quite as effective as "proper" anti-fatigue mats, but cost effective and readily available from sources like Tractor Supply and regional equivalents.

There are also some very reasonably priced lock together mats available....Bob R pointed me to them recently in my shop thread. Example:

https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07YN125...lig_dp_it&th=1

If you want to spend money and don't mind raising the floor a little, what Christopher mentions is worthy of consideration. But even there, I suspect I'd still want mats in the places I stand the most.

[Andrew More]

I think it's going to depend on a lot of things. My shop has a terrible unlevel concrete floor as a result of it being slowly expanded over the years, and new concrete added. I've also got a mini split. I believe the concrete is uninsulated, so it's a bit of an issue for heat loss/gain. So to me going with the sleepers + insulation + plywood makes a lot more sense. OTOH, adding that makes the back half of the shop unusable for parking. (Currently the garage is effectively a 40'x24' / 4 car tandem) YMMV.

[Tim Elett]

I think it's going to depend on a lot of things. My shop has a terrible unlevel concrete floor as a result of it being slowly expanded over the years, and new concrete added. I've also got a mini split. I believe the concrete is uninsulated, so it's a bit of an issue for heat loss/gain. So to me going with the sleepers + insulation + plywood makes a lot more sense. OTOH, adding that makes the back half of the shop unusable for parking. (Currently the garage is effectively a 40'x24' / 4 car tandem) YMMV.

Maybe you could have extra support strips where the cars park.

[Cameron Wood]

When putting sleepers and subfloor over concrete, consider moisture issues.
Seemingly dry slabs can pass a lot of moisture, leading to mold and rot.
15 and 20 mil plastic is sold for putting under slabs, and works on top as well, but comes in gigantic, expensive, & heavy rolls.

[Kris Cook]

I put 3/4" T&G on 2x4 PT sleepers laid flat with floor paint on the plywood. I researched the whole moisture barrier issue and decided to forego it, mostly for the number of holes you must inevitably put in the barrier - my slab was 3 years old, I have decent drainage under and away from my slab, and I think the mold thing is overblown largely. I posted the process and results in my shop build thread.

Best thing I have ever done for my floor. As Jim Mentioned - I do have the interlocking square foam panels between my 2 benches where I spend most of my time.

YMMV.

[Andrew More]

Maybe you could have extra support strips where the cars park.

That's a good point. Honestly with the way the shop is setup I don't really have a need to park a car in the back half, if I wanted too. I don't think the next owner will want to do that either, but you never know.

[Bryan Hall]

I'd love to lay sleepers but I'm already under 8' of height to the ceiling. I'm worried that dropping a couple inches will have too negative of an impact on the space. Which, unfortunately, is why I'm considering a shop full of rubber mats.

[Jim Becker]

That makes sense, Bryan. .5" - .75" thick matts are likely the best solution that provides a little more comfort without materially affecting your head-space.

[Bill Dufour]

I assume the rubber mats are a vapor barrier?
Bill D

[Jim Becker]

I assume the rubber mats are a vapor barrier?
Bill D

That would depend upon the material they are made of as well as the way the bottom and top surfaces are finished.

[Thomas Wilson]

The cushioned floor only benefits so much. I have a wood floor over Wood-I joists and rugs. My knees and feet are still a problem. The best thing for my knees is to take a break. I sketch, drink a cup of tea, or work on my to-do list. It is productive time. Elevating the feet is helpful to maximize benefit.

When I was younger, my knees and feet were not a physical limitation. But I also was a cube-farm-gopher in those days and was sitting a lot. I am on my feet more in the shop now and those feet are older.