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Thread: Finishing Koa

  1. #1
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    Finishing Koa

    I am looking for some suggestions on finishing Koa. On a recent trip to Hawaii we brought back art from a Hawaiian artist. I figured it would be best to make the frame from Koa.

    I don't want to just finish with polyurethane and I also don't want to just finish with oil, like Tung Oil and have to recoat in the future. I have seen some recommendations to first put on 2 coats of tung oil, followed up with a few coats of hand rubbed polyurethane on top.

    Thanks in advance for any suggestions.
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  2. #2
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    I'm a fan of Bartley's gel stain on projects like picture frames. It comes in assorted shades. I would go with clear satin for Koa.
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  3. #3
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    EM6000 on Koa

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  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jim Becker View Post
    EM6000 on Koa

    Jim,

    That looks nice, i like the sheen. I will look at this product. I also got a recommendation for Osmo Polyx Oil.
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  5. #5
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    Use some scrap and try various finishes to find what you like the best. The guitar body was grai-filled first and then sprayed with the EM6000. That finish was leveled with 800 wet and dry paper (wet) and then taken up through the entire Micromesh wet sanding regimen followed by polishing. There are smudges on it in that photo, unfortunately.
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  6. #6
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    Nice work, Jim. Not to hijack the thread, but curious what grain filler you used as it looks very clear.
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  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tom Bain View Post
    Nice work, Jim. Not to hijack the thread, but curious what grain filler you used as it looks very clear.
    I was thinking that also, besides 'wet sanding' to use the woods own sawdust as the filler, I wouldn't want to use a filler that changes the appearance of the wood.
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  8. #8
    As much a fan of waterborne finishes as I am, on Koa I definitely prefer solvent based finishes. The waterborne finishes we use are terrific, especially on lighter woods, but they they don't provide the same "grain pop and warmth" as solvent based finishes. I know there are "amber additives" out there for waterborne finishes that can mimic the look of solvent based finishes on darker woods, but the ones I have tried so far still don't provide quite the same look. The finished product tends to have a "cool" look to it. What has come the closest is to first spray on a coat of vinyl sealer and then top coat with a waterborne finish.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tom Bain View Post
    Nice work, Jim. Not to hijack the thread, but curious what grain filler you used as it looks very clear.
    I believe I used a Solarez UV cured product if I am remembering clearly. It was the first time I used it. Interesting stuff...just take it out in the sun and in a few minutes it was cured. The downside was that there was a residue I had to clean off before I could move on from there. I don't recall how I did that at this point. Solarez does have a slightly warm color which made up for the "water white" tone of the EM6000.
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  10. #10
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    This is the frame I made from Koa. The color when I took the picture laying it out on the carpet really isn't coming out well in the photo, however the color is better on the table but I am really like the wood. It machines really well and some of the other pieces of wood I have are really nice, they were too small for the frame. I will go broke at 42+ a bf if I want to build more with this wood

    20221211_213528.jpg20221211_212326.jpg
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  11. #11
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    I went for Osmo Polyx Oil. I figured I would give it a try. I did 2 coats so far, sanding the finish into the wood with 320g sandpaper. It created a mild 'slurry' and filled the grain a bit. It is ready for recoat in 8 to 10 hours although i waited longer. It fully cures in about 10-14 days which is quicker then tung oil and other finishes i've tried. The wood color is amazing so far so i'll see how it looks when done and post a picture.

    As far as application, it goes on really easy and has almost no oder/smell.


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  12. #12
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    I think koa is just about the prettiest wood to work with, especially if figured. I have several pieces I've been holding onto while i figure out the best use of them. And I've pondered the choice of finish, so I'm interested in your results.

    Every time we go to Hawaii, I marvel at how much koa is wasted on frivolous pieces of furniture and artwork when they should be having it for me.
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  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Stan Calow View Post
    I think koa is just about the prettiest wood to work with, especially if figured. I have several pieces I've been holding onto while i figure out the best use of them. And I've pondered the choice of finish, so I'm interested in your results.

    Every time we go to Hawaii, I marvel at how much koa is wasted on frivolous pieces of furniture and artwork when they should be having it for me.
    I have 3 coats on it now and was going to do more but decided it might not need it. If it was furniture that you'd be in contact with i'd add a 4th coat but Osmo really says anything more then 3 or 4 coats on hand rubbed application won't even penetrate and it would wipe off. However I've seen some examples of sanding out to 1000+ with 8 or 10 coats. At 400 grit + final coat I ended up doing with a white scotch brite pad, the finish is great.

    20221217_120315.jpg20221217_120327.jpg
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  14. #14
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    Beautiful stuff!
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    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

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