Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 15 of 16

Thread: Snowblower Repair

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Apr 2017
    Location
    Michigan
    Posts
    2,429

    Snowblower Repair

    Our snowblower is 15 years old and for the last 5 it's been running badly. Hard to start and surging while running. Doubtless this is because it spends much of the year as a fuel aging device. Last year I took the carb apart and cleaned it. Ran better but it's bad again now. Watched a couple videos on repairing it then went looking for rebuild kits. A few dollars for a kit, a few more for a can of carb cleaner and an hour to repair should get it going like new. Then I noticed that new carburetors are cheap. $18.95 for mine. Well I don't like the throwaway society but it's better than my wife's suggestion to replace the whole machine. A new carb is in the mail.

    What's really needed its a way to drain the fuel in spring. There is no shutoff valve and it takes some disassembly to get to the carb to remove the bowl, then there's the mess of catching the fuel. And running it out of fuel would take hours at an idle.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    McKean, PA
    Posts
    14,692
    Gas stabilizer added to the fuel a tank or two before storage helps. You can also add Star Tron Enzyme Fuel Treatment Gas Additive Small Engine during the season to take care of condensation that will mix with the alcohol in the fuel and it will run better.
    Lee Schierer
    Captain USN(Ret)

    My advice, comments and suggestions are free, but it costs money to run the site. If you found something of value here please give a little something back by becoming a contributor! Please Contribute

  3. #3
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Peshtigo,WI
    Posts
    1,197
    Now's the time to put in a valve. You'll have the tank drained to replace the carb.

    I had a problem with my ATV this past summer. Took the carb off and cleaned the bowl with carb cleaner and then put in a fuel filter that the manufacturer never installed. Runs like a new machine now.
    Confidence: The feeling you experience before you fully understand the situation

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    N.E, Ohio
    Posts
    2,994
    I use an oven baster to suck the fuel from the tank of all my small engines then start it and let it run until it stalls and the tank and carb fuel bowl are both empty. Done this for years and it really helps.
    George

    Making sawdust regularly, occasionally a project is completed.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Mar 2014
    Location
    Iowa USA
    Posts
    4,067
    Never use ethanol and if you do drain after winter. StaBil for gas always and premium gas no ethanol. Drain the old gas and toss, I use on the weeds and clean carb (if needed) using Real carb cleaner.... the stuff that will burn your hands. Replace with gas as above, never ever have issues and I have done the same for years and years.
    The snow blower I purchased in 1972 is still running someplace, I had for 25 years, gave to my son who does as I do and then when he moved to a small acreage he gave to a friend who is a mechanic .
    Last edited by Bill George; 11-30-2022 at 8:59 AM.
    Retired Guy- Central Iowa. , Cloudray Galvo Fiber , WorkBee 1000x750 CNC Router - Mach4 - Windows 10

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Feb 2017
    Location
    Minnesota
    Posts
    443
    Replace the fuel line while you're in there.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Colorado
    Posts
    141
    At the end of the season, I run mine until the gas is gone and never have a problem getting it going the next season.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Location
    Kansas City
    Posts
    2,293
    It's all about starting a new season with fresh, non-ethanol gas. The small engine class I went to, the instructor said he dumps all the end-of-season gas into his car's tank.
    Hobbyist

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Sep 2016
    Location
    Modesto, CA, USA
    Posts
    8,127
    If the fuel hose is rubber it is easy to add a shutoff. Drill hole in fuel tank and add a drain valve for end of season. Does anyone make a real cordless snow blower? The Ryobi zero turn mower looks like a good starting point. Or the old GE elctra trak lawn tractor.
    Bill D.
    https://www.maxmatic.com/electrak.htm
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bdP-EIlxZys
    Last edited by Bill Dufour; 11-30-2022 at 11:17 AM.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Longview WA
    Posts
    25,817
    Blog Entries
    1
    A turkey baster and some fuel line should make it easy to syphon out the gas in no time.

    jtk
    "A pessimist sees the difficulty in every opportunity; an optimist sees the opportunity in every difficulty."
    - Sir Winston Churchill (1874-1965)

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Apr 2017
    Location
    Michigan
    Posts
    2,429
    I'll have to get a turkey baster to suck out the gas and then run it dry. Same for lawn mower.

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    Columbus, OH
    Posts
    2,763
    I bought a $5 fuel siphon to drain down the tank, then run the engine 'til it dies to dry out the carb and cylinder. Fresh gas in the Spring.
    Brian

    "Any intelligent fool can make things bigger or more complicated...it takes a touch of genius and a lot of courage to move in the opposite direction." - E.F. Schumacher

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Location
    The Hartland of Michigan
    Posts
    7,604
    Quote Originally Posted by brian tymchak View Post
    i bought a $5 fuel siphon to drain down the tank, then run the engine 'til it dies to dry out the carb and cylinder. Fresh gas in the spring.
    ^^^^this^^^^

  14. #14
    When I put my seasonal equipment away, I just dump some Seafoam in the gas and run it long enough to ensure it has made it into the carb. Doing that and only using non-oxygenated (no ethanol) gas and I haven't had a problem. The snowblower fired up on the first pull again this year. From what I understand, Stabil floats on top of the gas to prevent oxygen from getting in, but Seafoam goes into the gas and does whatever its magic is. The big key is no ethanol in the gas. The ethanol absorbs water and causes corrosion, and the seals, o-rings, needle valves, etc on older carbs can be damaged from the ethanol in the gas.

    Before I finally got the bossman at the family biz to switch to non-ethanol gas for the small engines, I was rebuiliding carbs every 2-3 years on stuff. Not a big deal for a rototiller you use once a year, but kind of a concern for the backup generator.

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Feb 2017
    Location
    Minnesota
    Posts
    443
    Quote Originally Posted by Andrew Seemann View Post
    When I put my seasonal equipment away, I just dump some Seafoam in the gas and run it long enough to ensure it has made it into the carb. Doing that and only using non-oxygenated (no ethanol) gas and I haven't had a problem. The snowblower fired up on the first pull again this year. From what I understand, Stabil floats on top of the gas to prevent oxygen from getting in, but Seafoam goes into the gas and does whatever its magic is. The big key is no ethanol in the gas. The ethanol absorbs water and causes corrosion, and the seals, o-rings, needle valves, etc on older carbs can be damaged from the ethanol in the gas.

    Before I finally got the bossman at the family biz to switch to non-ethanol gas for the small engines, I was rebuiliding carbs every 2-3 years on stuff. Not a big deal for a rototiller you use once a year, but kind of a concern for the backup generator.
    Same. Non-ox with StarTron. Snowblower, mower, boat...fill it full, run it through the engine for a few minutes, store it.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •