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Thread: How much bevel?

  1. #1
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    How much bevel?

    I have a Henry Taylor 1.25" skew that I've ground the way I like (for now). I kept the original bevel angle/width, which is just slightly deeper than the chisel is thick. I had a couple of catches and feel that both times it was because I couldn't see "around" the chisel. What angle should I be shaping/sharpening a skew this size? How large should the bevel be? Thanks all.

    Edit: for a comparison, the bevel on my 3/4 sorby skew is much deeper, probably twice the depth.
    Last edited by John Kananis; 11-29-2022 at 10:57 AM.
    "The reward of a thing well done is having done it." - Ralph Waldo Emerson

  2. #2
    I keep my skews in the 30 degree range. For sure, I am not nearly as competent with them as I am with bowl gouges. I think individual choices will vary, but most are more acute than bowl or detail gouges. Being able to 'see' around the bevel is one thing to consider, I guess. Almost all catches are from coming off the bevel and you lose control, or if you are cutting above the half way line on the width of the skew. Being able to 'feel' the cut is huge. Best video to watch on You Tube is Allen Batty. Richard Raffen has one as well that he did for Fine Woodworking. I still jump when he starts off with a catch. Woodturner 21 is excellent, but he is a production turner and his videos are 'not for instruction' but you will see what can be done....

    robo hippy

  3. #3
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    Thanks Reed, I'll try a little more acute. I've seen Alan's video a well as Richard's. I've also watched the Alan Lacer's video. Appreciate the info.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by John Kananis View Post
    I have a Henry Taylor 1.25" skew that I've ground the way I like (for now). I kept the original bevel angle/width, which is just slightly deeper than the chisel is thick. I had a couple of catches and feel that both times it was because I couldn't see "around" the chisel. What angle should I be shaping/sharpening a skew this size? How large should the bevel be? Thanks all.

    Edit: for a comparison, the bevel on my 3/4 sorby skew is much deeper, probably twice the depth.
    The width of the bevel, of course depends on the included angle, of course, the skew angle, and the thickness of the steel. I've never compared the bevel width to the thickness but just consider the included angle.

    I have skews from 30-deg to one almost 60-deg, some with a straight skew cutting edge, some curved, one straight across (not skewed), various thicknesses, from 1/4" round to 1.5" wide (and quite thick). Each feels and works a little differently. The smaller the included angle the easier and potentially cleaner it will cut but at the expense of being a little less "forgiving". Mike Darlow recommends a 25-deg bevel but that's too "sharp" for me.

    The most important thing, I think, is that the skew is kept razor sharp. I sharpen on a 600-grit wheel, hone on a Tormek leather wheel, then restore the edge while working with a piece of MDF with polishing compound rubbed on a rough side, sometimes after removing a tiny bit of metal with an extra-fine EzLap diamond hone.

    I sometimes put the 60-deg skew (fairly wide, with a mildly curved cutting edge) in the hands of first-time lathe students, at least for the first few minutes of cuts, then switch to a more acute bevel. BTW, I always start new students with the skew even if they have never seen a lathe before or if they've come for remedial skew lessons. I always start them out with stock I've already turned round, turning the lathe by hand until they get the feel for what makes a useful shaving. Then I turn the lathe on very slow, gradually turn up the speed, and clean up the cylinder after they make some practice grooves. After some practice they pick and make a spindle project. I've never had one get a catch.

    I think catches are more about the feel, and of course the presentation, than the visibility. I do always want to see the cutting edge and watch the shavings curling off. If the cutting edge is hidden perhaps the tool rest is too high.

    There is an optimum rest height, at least for me. Sometimes I adjust it just a millimeter or two until it feels right.

    JKJ

  5. #5
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    Thanks, John. Appreciate the insight, I'm a beginner still so I'm trying to inhale any stitch of info I can find.

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