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Thread: small annoying vent

  1. #16
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    Dec 2013
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    Now i have a dead flat (hope it stays that way) poplar fence. I took two flat poplar boards and face glue them. Once dried I re-milled it on the jointer and planner to make sure it was once again flat, and to the thickness I wanted. Well see if it stays.
    Distraction could lead to dismemberment!

  2. #17
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
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    NE OH
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    When I made the fence for my sled, I first milled a piece of 12/4 red oak longer than the fence, as flat as I could get it. Then I glued up the two 3/4 plywood fence pieces and clamped them to the piece of oak. The two plywood pieces had some bow, and I arranged them so they both bowed out in the middle, in opposite directions, so there was a fair gap between them until it was all clamped. I left it clamped for 2 days. It came out flat and has stayed flat. The advantage of using the piece of oak is that you can put many clamps all around the fence pieces. It's harder to clamp something like that as well to a bench top or table saw top.
    --I had my patience tested. I'm negative--

  3. #18
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    I used a solid piece of 6/4 poplar when I made mine about 30 years. I never expected it would stay perfectly flat and straight, but it has. That said, 3 layers of 3/4" plywood is another option. I used that approach for a fence on my original router table. And one featuring just such a fence is in the latest version of FWW for anyone who cares to take a look.

    John

  4. #19
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    I built my sled fence from 2 layers of 18mm Baltic birch and clamped it to my bench to ensure is stayed flat until the glue cured. It came out dead flat and has stayed that way.

  5. #20
    laminations are always odd numbers. my sled was one layer 1/2 baltic birch and could cross cut a 4 x 8. It fine for many years.

  6. #21
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Location
    The Hartland of Michigan
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    Panels will have a bow to them. Inspect each panel and glue the convex sides together. Like this ) (.
    Clamp overnight and done.

  7. #22
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    Dec 2013
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    Central New Jersey
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    Folks,

    I do appreciate all the ideas and comments. Glue up of 3 layers of 1/2 inch might have been better than two 3/4 layers to get it to stay flat.

    In any event I have a dead flat poplar fence, at least to the milled surface of my sawstop and 2nd check against a a strait edge rule. I used the the 5 cut method and the fence was 0.029 inches off from end to end. After resetting the fence with a 0.029 feeler gauge, I did another 5 cut test and my cut-off exactly the same on both ends at 0.7370 of an inch, and the remaining piece was square on all four corners to a woodpecker square. That felt good. Ask me again in a year if it's still square

    For all those that keep saying they used baltic birch, it is pretty much a dried up resource right now. The product was from Russia and there is no more coming in. And honestly, even if it was, I wouldn't buy it now.

    Hopefully Finland starts producing enough to make it down to those of us who don't buy a container of it for their furniture business. We'll see where the plywood market goes in the next year.

    Justin
    Distraction could lead to dismemberment!

  8. #23
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    Feb 2003
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    In the foothills of the Sandia Mountains
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    I built my sled using 3/4” particle board faced with melamine on both sides. Other than being too darn heavy, it has remained stable & accurate for 20+ years.
    Attached Images Attached Images
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    "It's paradoxical that the idea of living a long life appeals to everyone, but the idea of getting old doesn't appeal to anyone."
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  9. #24
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    Dec 2013
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bruce Page View Post
    I built my sled using 3/4” particle board faced with melamine on both sides. Other than being too darn heavy, it has remained stable & accurate for 20+ years.
    My previous sled was Melamine and it really was a heavy beast but stable for about 15 years.
    Distraction could lead to dismemberment!

  10. #25
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    May 2013
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    You can just use some dry construction lumber. Careful looking will get cvg fir. Screenshot_20221201_095314_Gallery.jpg

  11. #26
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    My MDF jigs, fixtures, and sleds that need to stay spot on have been finished with several coats of Watco Danish oil. The edges will soak Watco up like crazy. It stabilizes and hardens MDF in a very beneficial way. I am also careful about how I store them.
    Best Regards, Maurice

  12. #27
    Plywood isn't always perfect, but I think we overstate the frequency of warping. I still use plenty of BORG plywood, and for the most part can be relied on to be flat and straight. I think to make a blanket statements about qshw or mdf being superior all the time unfairly overstates it.

  13. #28
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    Feb 2009
    Location
    Cedar Park, TX - Boulder Creek, CA
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    832
    I've glued a number of pieces of plywood together,, baltic birch included, 'back to back', and had *NONE* of them come out flat. Even when clamped to a granite surface plate while the glue dried.

    Next time will involve epoxy and carbon fiber cloth between the layers. And I'm not particularly optimistic.

  14. #29
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    Creating balanced plywood and stiffening with formica has served me well. Very flat, very stable, very accurate.

    IMG_1009.jpg
    Last edited by Maurice Mcmurry; 12-04-2022 at 6:27 PM. Reason: ,
    Best Regards, Maurice

  15. #30
    Quote Originally Posted by Rich Engelhardt View Post
    I get around that by using a solvent based adhesive - such as the Original Contact Cement - or shellac.
    3# cut orange shellac (now called Amber) makes a wonderful fast dry adhesive.
    Yes, and Orange Shellac flakes have some WAX in them , unless it’s marked “dewaxed”.

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