How to remove Linseed Oil finish?

[John Keeton]

On numerous gallery quality turnings I wet sanded with BLO to fill the grain, followed by applications of shellac with the same cloth used to apply the BLO. It worked very well. I have never had adhesion issues with shellac over oil.

[Steve Mathews]

On numerous gallery quality turnings I wet sanded with BLO to fill the grain, followed by applications of shellac with the same cloth used to apply the BLO. It worked very well. I have never had adhesion issues with shellac over oil.

Interesting ... Mike Mahoney mentions briefly in one of his videos wet sanding with walnut oil. I think it was for a similar reason if not the same. Come to think of it he speaks highly of oak for woodturning. Maybe it's filling this open grain structure he had in mind. Regardless, I'd like to try this technique to see its effect.

[John Keeton]

Steve, the one important thing about BLO is that it will darken over the years more so than other oils. One needs to take that into consideration, especially on lighter woods. That said, it seems to enhance the contrast on figured maple.

Also, did you get the PM I sent you?

[John K Jordan]

...linseed oil ...wasn't good for contact with food products...

I've read a lot over the years about wood finishes suitable for things meant to be used for food. There is much controversy. From the finish experts I respect the most I heard the same thing: nearly any finish is fine for wood things intended for use with food IF the finishes are completely cured, even so-called "boiled linseed oil" which, as pointed out, is no longer boiled but chemically treated.

For example, this article (https://www.woodsmith.com/article/fa...safe-finishes/) makes the statement:
Nearly all finishes are considered non-toxic after they’re fully cured — even those that use metallic drying agents containing cobalt, zirconium, zinc, or manganese. So in some respects, all finishes are “food-safe"

The author continues, indicating in spite of this he'd rather be on the safe side. It's a personal choice. Personally, I'm trying to visualize just how much of the wood of the bowl would have to be scraped away and ingested to get a toxic amount of anything, given that most of a penetrating finish has done just that, penetrated sometimes deeply within the wood. I'd like to read a science-based study on this. I don't know but I suspect most of the opinions I hear are just that, based on feelings and guesses and not data.

That said, I've been happy with pure beeswax on things I make for the kitchen and dining room. I often heat it so it penetrates somewhat. It's not as long lasting as polymerizing finishes where water is present, but blended with mineral oil it does a reasonable job. BTW, when I give people things that use a specific finish I often give them a bit extra in a small container so they can restore the surface occasionally.

BTW, Richard Raffan once said things like turned salad bowls intended to be used need no finish - the daily use, scraping with the spoon, washing, and drying quickly give them a satisfying patina. Not something to sell in a gallery, but hey.

JKJ

[Maurice Mcmurry]

I buy raw linseed oil and boil it myself. When I want to avoid stickyness I add Japan Drier.

[Brice Rogers]

Japan Drier?? Hmm.... maybe wet sanding with Japan drier would cause the BLO to harden?

Use nitrile gloves.

[Maurice Mcmurry]

Unfortunately Japan drier brings nasty inedible's back into the recipe.