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Thread: Blade Wisdom Needed

  1. #1

    Blade Wisdom Needed

    I have a new SS JS Pro and CTS. I’ve used a thin kerf WW II and like it. How do the CMT blades measure up and which ones are recommended?
    Last edited by Derek Arita; 11-26-2022 at 4:26 PM.

  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by Derek Arita View Post
    I have a new SS JS Pro and CTS. I’ve used a thinker WW II and like it. How do the CMT blades measure up and which ones are recommended?
    While i've heard good things about CMT, although I've never owned one. However the reason for my response is it would be much better for someone to provide an answer if you provide what type of cuts you plan to make and in what material. Ripping hardwood does better with a ripping blade, vs cutting plywood, using a 90 or 100 tooth ply blade.
    Distraction could lead to dismemberment!

  3. #3
    Rips and crosscuts, with use on mostly plywood. Some use on hardwoods as well. I generally use the same blade for everything.

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    If you're looking for only one blade (not generally recommended but hey), I would consider the ridge Carbide combination blade. It's amazing.
    Last edited by John Kananis; 11-26-2022 at 4:32 PM. Reason: Grammar

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    Unless you are cutting extra thick plywood, your 1.5 Hp saw should easily handle full kerf blades. All cuts in plywood are cross cuts. But for real lumber, dedicated blades do give superior results over a combination blade.
    Lee Schierer
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  6. #6
    In general, what blades are better than. Woodworker II blades?

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    Quote Originally Posted by Derek Arita View Post
    In general, what blades are better than. Woodworker II blades?
    There are certainly comparable blades like the Ridge Carbide that was mentioned above, but "better" is likely an ungainly thing, quite honestly. I agree with Lee's comments, too. Optimal cut quality can come from having dedicated ripping and crosscut blades, but the general purpose blades like the WW-II and similar do a pretty darn good job across the board, especially if you keep them clean and sharpen when needed. I just sold two 10" WW-II 40T blades to another 'Creeker that I've had since the early 2000s and they still cut like new as I kept them clean and sharpened. (I use 12" blades now)
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

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    Quote Originally Posted by Derek Arita View Post
    In general, what blades are better than. Woodworker II blades?
    Top of the line is your WWII or comparable ridge carbide. However cutting with the same combo blade for everything isn't always ideal.
    Distraction could lead to dismemberment!

  9. #9
    I am not too familiar with the SS but most CMT blades are coated, I would make sure the saw brake works with them.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Derek Arita View Post
    In general, what blades are better than. Woodworker II blades?

    For me, my saws and what I cut - the Ridge Carbide offers better cuts than the WWII.

    The Freud 410 Fusions offer almost as good a cut but there is a slight difference if you really look close. It's good enough for most things and a lot of people wouldn't see a difference. But..............................

    when you consider the Freud can be had for 50-75% less than the Ridge of Forrest - the value proposition becomes a slam dunk.

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    Dave...hmm, I agree AND disagree. The ridge combo blade is better at most things than the forest wwii blades (again as general purpose and especially ripping imho), the ridge dado is at least the equal to the forest offering (better I feel) but nothing cuts ply a nicely as the forest ply/veneer blade and the wwii is just as good as the ts2000 (I have and prefer the Ridge but have to admit it's just preference at that level).

    Edit: I have some Freud blades and like them but they're not of the same calibur.
    Last edited by John Kananis; 12-01-2022 at 9:30 PM.

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