Update: I went with the 14BX deal.
Now I need to put in a 220V outlet…
Would have loved a 17” bandsaw, but upon seeing them in person at the store, they were way too big for my space.
Congrats Kory. If you need info or help on the 220v, PM me. I'm about 1/2 hr north of Seattle.
Too bad I haven’t wired in a 240V outlet yet. And gotta wait until Tuesday for the mobile base.
https://imgur.com/a/91LPP7s
For many years I had the typical 14" cast iron Delta bandsaw with a 6" riser installed, and I never felt that I could resaw very well on it. A few years ago I purchased a Laguna 14/bx 14" steel frame bandsaw with 13" resaw capacity and installed a 3/4" wide carbide tooth blade that never leaves it. It's proven to be an exceptionally good machine for me; I not only can use it for resawing 12" wide hardwood boards in ~1/16" thick slices for veneering purposes, I find that I use it for lots of other things as well (including joinery) since the cuts are so smooth and accurate. One thing that I also now do is to rip any questionable boards on it, then run their edges over the jointer, for safety reasons. The physics of cutting on a bandsaw are such that it is probably the safest stationary power tool in the shop. FYI, I kept my old Delta and now use it only for cutting curves with a 3/16" wide blade.
I haven't had a problem with flying bands from my shop bandsaws, but the sawmill is a different story. Band tension is much higher (1,400 psi on a 2" hydraulic piston); I've seen bands shoot out of the dust collection chute on more than one occasion. For sure, when a band breaks it gets EVERYBODY'S attention at the sawmill!
Are you looking for your forever tool? I stopped a while back buying step-up tools (where you buy this now and plan to buy that bigger/better one later). My last step up purchase was my G0490. I should have gotten the G0490X (spiralhead instead of straight knife). In my defense, I had just purchased the G0513X2 bandsaw. I should have followed my self-imposed rule. Now I can't bring myself to spend the money on the spiral head and throw away the perfectly good straight knife head. I saved my pennies and purchase the Bosch 12" GSM, yeah only $60 more than the 10" but don't plan on replacing it. It's (hopefully) a forever tool. Not I have a 15" Jet planer and would like to install a spiral head in it. Same issue, I can't bring myself to throw away the perfectly good straight knife head. The upside on the planer is it was only $400, requiring some TLC to get it running again, so I have the "margin" to purchase the head. But still, what do I do with the old head?
With that said, would the 14" be a step up tool and you really want to get the 17" as a forever tool? Then save you $$$, wait for any type of sale from Grizzly and get the 17". I have the G0513X2. Likely a forever tool for me. Someday way way off maybe I I will have wished to have gotten the 19". So far I have never regretted getting the 17" over the 15", or regretted anything about the G0513X2.
As someone that has considered and made decisions based on very similar comments and questions, I leave you with this:
Aluminum vs cast iron: I don't know if there is a difference. They saw the high mass is helpful when at the machine limits (some say upon reach 51% of the machine limits). Do I think the cast iron wheels would be more durable than the aluminum? Yes, I do. They are under a great deal of stress tensioning the band and using the saw.
Foot brake or no? The G0513X2BF was not out when I purchased my G0513X2. Would the foot brake be nice? Definitely. I can say first hand the saw takes quite a while to slow down, especially after a blade snaps. Would I like to have the foot brake? Yes. Is the foot brake worth an additional $270? I don't know. That is a tough one, IMO.