Switching to Metric in the shop, Is it even practical?

[Wes Grass]

I've got an image in my head of 2 pointers, a red one for fractions and black for decimal. Geared to rotate at different rates,.1" for decimal, and ??? for fraction.

Making my head spin thinking about it.

[Edward Weber]

Switching measuring systems is fine if that makes you happy and helps your work. I will caution that there is almost no way of a complete conversion here in the states. Along with all the items mentioned, like measuring rules and machine scales, there is hardware. You can not always get the hardware you need, whether it be hinges, catches, screws or bolts, in the metric version.
Quick example
You can build a cabinet using metric measurements, but the pulls you like may only come in imperial mounting widths. At some point there is always a little conversion to be done.
It can often be the small things that catch you up.

[roger wiegand]

I guess I don't think of things like cabinet pulls as being either English or metric, they simply are whatever they are, and you measure from the actual object to place them. I never (at least not anymore) believe the measurement on the package or specification in any event, I mark the holes from the pull, hinge, or whatever piece of hardware itself. If I need a measurement I measure it, hopefully with the same scale or caliper that I'm going to use to transfer the measurement. Doesn't matter whether the ruler is English or metric. When I'm designing I tend to use whole centimeters, but I don't expect manufactured objects to ever be an integral number of either mm or inches.

A story stick beats a ruler pretty much every time for speed, accuracy, and ease of use. In the world of CNC that all has to change, but OTOH the CNC machine really doesn't care if the dimension is 1 inch or centimeter or 1.057 inches or centimeters; it's the humans who have a thing for integers.

[Joel Gelman]

I use both. For certain machines like European shapers, hard to avoid metric. I have DRO for my stops for my chop saw that can go decimal to metric. Same with my table saw cross cut fence. An example of where I would use metric... I have a cabinet opening and want to install a Blum drawer where the drawer has to be 10 mm less wide than the interior opening. I take an inside measurement using a ProScale caliper, subtract 10mm, and set that as my measurement for the drawers. Way easier than dealing with fractions.

[Greg Quenneville]

By the way, whenever I have to convert drawings, as I did recently to build a fireplace, I now just ask Siri “convert x inches to millimetres”. It understands fractions if you ask it nicely too.

[Larry Frank]

For me, I do not think it would make any difference in my accuracy while building. It would cost me a bunch for some new tools. I also think I would make mistakes while I was converting.

For me, it would be a hassle without much benefit.

[Chris Parks]

Other than my domino I work in imperial. I like airguns, however, and they come mainly from the far east or Europe

Referring to the Middle East sounds so colonial and old school to me and I smile every time I read it for some reason as I don't see it written that way very often these days.

[Ronald Blue]

I've been working with both for virtually all my working life. I'm 65 now. Conversion of dimensions hasn't been a big deal. I still do all woodworking in Imperial. While still working there was metric in some areas and still plenty of things using Imperial. Rail gauge is still set at 56 and 1/2" and not 1435 mm or 143.5 cm. There are some nice things about the metric system. You don't need a chart for tap drill size. Just subtract the pitch from the diameter. So a 10mm by 1 mm pitch bolt needs a 9 mm tap drill. I still smile when I grab the 19 mm socket and 1/2" drive ratchet. It will be many many years before Imperial is completely gone. As long as you are comfortable with the method you use it's all good.

[Jim Becker]

I am SO ready to get back to working in metric now that the shop building construction is all but complete...