Bedside table dresser design

[mark mcfarlane]

One more thought.

Make sure the case/carcass is perfectly square as you glue it up. Drawers are problematic otherwise.

I've created some built ins where the casework gets slightly out of square during installation and it adds some complication to getting the drawers to perfectly fit and the drawer front to line up perfectly.

Square is good.

My process:
1) Buy the drawer slides
2) Build the case
3) Measure and build the drawers

[Aaron Liebling]

I think I'm going to go with wooden slides a la https://www.finewoodworking.com/2021...e-hung-drawers

Metal slides just don't feel right in hardwood bedroom furniture for me.

I've done a fair amount of carcass work with handcut dovetails, so that part isn't so bad (though making sure it glues up perfectly square is a good reminder and sometimes a challenge). I've been planning to put a back on it, partially to help keep it square.

[mark mcfarlane]

Wood slides are awesome. FWIW, undermount slide hardware is basically invisible. It is less visible than the FWW plan you referenced. You can see the side piece of the slide inside the casework when the drawer is fully extended. I've never seen full extension of a drawer with wood slides.

If you haven't seen undermounts in person, look at around 3:30 in this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_nJWXax2T4I

[mark mcfarlane]

. ...Metal slides just don't feel right in hardwood bedroom furniture for me...

We have some expensive handmade solid wood dressers (w/ dovetailed drawers,...) that use undermount hardware, so it's not unheard of.

I personally have built too many drawers before discovering the undermount hardware.

[Aaron Liebling]

The undermounts look nice. I assume they take a bit of height.

Somehow the wooden ones just feel right to me, though my guess is that my wife may vote for undermount.

I don't feel like full extension is a critical feature for bedroom dresser drawers. Am I wrong here?

[Lee Schierer]

I don't feel like full extension is a critical feature for bedroom dresser drawers. Am I wrong here?

Full extensions are nicer for drawers that will hold, shirts, sweat shirts or sweaters. Even drawers with things like socks benefit from full extension slides as the rear of the drawer can become like an archaeological dig with old items getting buried in the back.

Our dressers and drawers under the bed with 3/4 slides and they don't pull out far enough to see the things that get put toward the back.

[mark mcfarlane]

Although probably most of the mature folks (like me) on this forum grew up with 3/4 extension type drawers, I really like full extension, and in some cases over-extension (under kitchen counters). It is really nice to open a drawer and have everything in view and quick to grab. Very convenient, very smooth, classy feel to open and close (if you don't buy cheap hardware).

I've become a snob for full extension, soft closes slides. I'm slowly changing all the slides in the built-ins in our home.

...or possibly I'm just too lazy to build classy, craftsman-driven wooden slides.

[andy bessette]

I have lived on my boats (and travel trailers) half my 79 years and have become used to non-full-extension drawer slides. I don't have any trouble reaching everything in drawers.

[Aaron Liebling]

OK..I think I'll go for the undermount. The nice blums are stiff at $300 for 6 sets - 3 drawers in two dressers, though. Given that these dressers will last a long time, I'm assuming it's worth crying once and enjoying for a lifetime.

[Jamie Buxton]

...The nice blums are stiff at $300 for 6 sets ...

Cabinetparts.com has 18" Blum 563H softclose in stock for $24/pr. Add a couple bucks for the locking devices, and you're at $27 per pair. Times six drawers, and you're at $162, not $300.

[Aaron Liebling]

Thanks, I was looking at lee valley. That's much better!

Is it worth getting a jig to mount them or is it easy enough to do by hand?

[Jamie Buxton]

Thanks, I was looking at lee valley. That's much better!

Is it worth getting a jig to mount them or is it easy enough to do by hand?

You should be able to mount the mounting clips to the drawer without a jig. Boring the hole in the back of the drawer can be done without a jig, but it does want precision. It also wants a solid depth stop. I use a shop-built jig and a plunge router. Fastening the cabinet members to the casework can be done without a jig.