How to remove a broken off screw

[Brian Runau]

I was installing bed hardware on the side rails of the bed. Mark each hole a little predrill etc... One of this #6 x 3/4 screws broke in two piece well below the top of the hole. I can't move the hardware, only thing I can think to do is use a plug cutter to remove the screw, glue in a dowel, and then go forward. Open to other ideas. thanks Brian

[Jamie Buxton]

Screw extractor. It is like a 1/4"-diameter tube with saw teeth at the ends. You drill it into the wood surrounding the broken screw, remove it, and plug. For instance https://www.woodcraft.com/search?q=s...&button=search

[Lee Schierer]

Ouch that hurts. When putting wood screws into hardwood I always drag the threads across a lump of bees wax and work it into the threads a bit with my fingers. The wax will lubricate the screw without discoloring the wood, significantly reducing the chance of breakage.

The other thing I have done, is switch to Spax screws they are a lot stronger than the zinc plated screws in little bags hanging on the rack at most big box stores.

[glenn bradley]

Agree. A screw extractor is basically a plug cutter with the inner diameter a lot closer to your screw size. I have also used a piece of metal tubing with teeth filed into one end. You generally run the drill CCW to cut the removal hole.

[Bill Dufour]

Make your own screw extractor from a roll pin. Just grind one tooth at the seam and relive all the rest at that end so the tooth is proud of the end. Just buy one that the body of the screw slips into for sizing.
Bill D

[Edward Weber]

I prefer to use a cross-grain plug for repairs and holding power over an end-grain dowel. You may need a set of plug cutters, one for the screw removal and one for the plug.

[Steve Demuth]

I prefer to use a cross-grain plug for repairs and holding power over an end-grain dowel. You may need a set of plug cutters, one for the screw removal and one for the plug.

I think cross grain is better if you drill our a fairly large plug. But for screws, I prefer to use as narrow a plug as possible (make your own, as some other posters have suggested), and then fill with epoxy mixed with wood fiber.

[Cameron Wood]

Some other possibilities:

- leave it. For a bed rail, there must be multiple of those small screws. Glue the head on for appearance if desired.
- drill through & next to the broken one and work another screw in, probably at a slight angle.
- drill a new hole in the hardware for a new screw location.
- drill out the broken end and replace with a larger or longer screw.

[Thomas McCurnin]

For hardwood, I use a starter screw made out of steel, and yes beeswax it, then install the real screw. This is especially important for brass screws. But I've had No. 4 and 6 screws snap off. They are prone to over heating, so I often screw them in part way and come back in a few minutes.

[Brian Runau]

I decided to move the side rail brackets up 1/4". Got some spax #6x 3/4 screws and reinstalled the brackets. Never again on the cheap Hillman brand screws. Brian

[Roger Feeley]

Note that if you use the tubular screw extractor, it cuts in a counter clockwise direction. I have a set of them and have only needed one a few times. But I sure was glad.

[Brian Runau]

For hardwood, I use a starter screw made out of steel, and yes beeswax it, then install the real screw. This is especially important for brass screws. But I've had No. 4 and 6 screws snap off. They are prone to over heating, so I often screw them in part way and come back in a few minutes.

Tom, help me understand. Steel screw vs what is sold is Lowes/Home Depot?

[Andrew More]

Also helpful: left handed drill bits.

They turn counter clockwise, instead of clockwise. You use them to drill the initial hole, and sometimes they're enough all by themselves. If that fails, then you put the screw extractor into the hole you created with the bit. Best place to find these tools is usually an autoparts store, if you're in a pinch.

[Cameron Wood]

I think there is a tendency to make too small of pilot holes, believing that a tight fit is stronger/better.

IME, having the screw threads cut into the sides of the hole without crushing or bending the surrounding wood fibers is stronger, as well as easier to drive and less likely to break a screw.

[Curt Harms]

I think there is a tendency to make too small of pilot holes, believing that a tight fit is stronger/better.

IME, having the screw threads cut into the sides of the hole without crushing or bending the surrounding wood fibers is stronger, as well as easier to drive and less likely to break a screw.

I think that's true. AFAIK the pilot hole size should be the same as the 'center' of the screw, the solid core inside the threads. I know I had a tendency to drill undersized holes until I read about how screws actually hold.