Better order soon. I was waiting for many months, can’t remember exactly how long, and it became available again just recently. Not sure if it still is.Originally Posted by Clifford McGuire
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Better order soon. I was waiting for many months, can’t remember exactly how long, and it became available again just recently. Not sure if it still is.
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Derek if the travel is about an inch then the use of the blade is widened by the same amount, not trivial but useful.
Now the reversed ramp for veneer; genius!
You can do a lot with very little! You can do a little more with a lot!
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Its in stock. I'm staring at it. I want it.
Is it worth getting the aluminum tracks? Seems like a luxury but not really necessary.
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made its way into my cart...
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I've somehow managed to get by without a ramp or aluminum tracks, but I really do like the LV Shooting Plane.
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This may depend on how one uses a shooting board. Until contemplating the the idea, it seemed odd to me the suggestion some make of clamping your work to the shooting board. For me it seemed holding the work piece with one hand while operating the plane with the other seemed the way to go about using a shooting board. Then it occurred to me the work could be positioned proud of the fence and worked down until the plane could shave no more. So if you clamp work to the shooting board a rail may not work for this method.
The pre-made aluminum tracks are nice. I made my own from a piece of scrap ash:
Shooting Board Guide Rail.jpg
Make the screw holes in the rail elongated so the ramp can be adjusted when the whether changes.
This keeps the plane from traveling away from the work. It is one less thing to go wrong.
jtk
"A pessimist sees the difficulty in every opportunity; an optimist sees the opportunity in every difficulty."
- Sir Winston Churchill (1874-1965)
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Thanks Jim. I currently use the veritas low angle jack on a shooting board with no outer fence guide. But I tend to hold it on the side up close to the middle so it gives me a little leverage against the inner guide. The shooting plane handle is further back so it seems like it would need the outer guide to not travel away from the work as you said. The aluminum guide seems like a nice way to accomplish it.
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An aluminium track is not necessary, but if you are using a #51-style shooting plane (Veritas or LN) with the handle at the rear, then you need a side rail to keep the plane tracking against the work piece. Pushing from the rear of the plane affects directionality. In this situation, the aluminium track makes for a easier build. I simply added an adjustable wooden rail.
Regards from Perth
Derek
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The Veritas Shooting Plane has a handle that can be set almost vertical in relation to the ramp. This also allows a few fingers to press against the blade and lever cap to keep the plane running true. Though the track does help in the endeavor.
For my low angle jack or other planes, a hot dog on the side helped a lot to keep it running true.
jtk
"A pessimist sees the difficulty in every opportunity; an optimist sees the opportunity in every difficulty."
- Sir Winston Churchill (1874-1965)
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Bought it this morning. It went to "limited quantities" so hopefully I get one. Went ahead and passed on the track as I don't think I'll have any issue making a square guide. Looking forward to using this, I use my shooting board a lot and this will be a nice upgrade.
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It should be easy, just remember to allow for adjustment when needed.Went ahead and passed on the track as I don't think I'll have any issue making a square guide.
jtk
"A pessimist sees the difficulty in every opportunity; an optimist sees the opportunity in every difficulty."
- Sir Winston Churchill (1874-1965)
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So finally got to use the new plane this past week. It was a clear upgrade to me from the LA Jack, but it is a luxury. The added mass of the plane is noticeable. If you have the budget for a specialty tool its totally worth it, but if you are deciding between this and something else essential you can use a LA Jack just fine.
Incidentally I haven't gone and added the track to my existing shooting board yet. Since the handle is adjustable I just angled it down a bit. Not the best ergonomically but didn't have any issues keeping it up against the guide and the work piece.
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Charles has it about right, IMO. I started out trying to take too much if a cut, getting a running start, like running your car into a Jersey Bumper. Once I received some proper guidance and learned to think smoothing plane I got better at it. Of course sharp is a good thing. Put the plane up to the edge a little harder push to get a start and take a shaving. I’ve not made a ramped board. I can see where it could help. Try it out by putting your block plane on a five degree skew on end grain. Five degrees will look like a lot looking down on it. Way easier to start the plane on that little corner than a 3/4” flat.
Jim
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