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Thread: Parting tool issues in Red Oak

  1. #1

    Parting tool issues in Red Oak

    Iím trying to make Christmas ornaments out of red oak. I need to make multiple parting cuts for each ornament. I have tried both a diamond shaped parting tool and a thin bladed tool made from a reciprocating saw blade. I have tried sharpening both tools multiple times for each cut. They both cut great to begin with but within a few seconds they stop cutting. Any suggestions?

  2. #2
    Seems unlikely, but could both have lost temper? Cutting edge angle so narrow it dulls quickly? Presentation of the cutting edge to the cut?

    I understand it is not the wood you wish to use, but if you try an identical turning blank of poplar or even 2x4 spruce-pine-fir (SPF) does the same thing happen?

  3. #3
    Thank you for the response. I will try another type of wood tomorrow.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    Peoria, IL
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    3,311
    Are you just shoving the parting tool in, or are you correctly moving it in an arc from top to center to make more of a shearing cut? An 1/8" wide scraper will need a lot of sharpening!

  5. #5
    Richard, I am starting the cut pushing straight in till I’m just below the surface to have a cleaner cut then angling the tool for a shearing cut for the remainder of the cut.

  6. #6
    Is the tool binding in the kerf of the cut? Fairly common to do deep parting cuts at about 1.5 x the width of the tool, alternating the left side/right side of the cut as you go down to keep the kerf a little wider than the tool.

  7. #7
    Parting tools cut more cleanly if the cutting edge is on a tangent to the cylinder, same with a spindle roughing gouge. So, start with the bevel rubbing the wood, and slowly raise the handle until it starts to cut. If you are starting on a 3 inch diameter cylinder, as you plunge in, you will have to raise your handle. Plunging straight in with the tool/handle straight horizontal is more of a scraping cut so it won't cut as cleanly. Like Adam said, if the tool is binding, then you need to open up the kerf. For very shallow cuts, this is not necessary. If you are going in an inch or more, then you need to open it up. If there are burn marks, for sure the blade is binding. Oh, you can see and smell the smoke too.

    robo hippy

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