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Thread: Best joint for connecting guitar stand neck to base?

  1. #1

    Question Best joint for connecting guitar stand neck to base?

    Hey guys! New woodworker here, having fun with the learning process. I've come across this forum many times from Google while researching, but now it's time to jump in with my own question.

    I'm designing a guitar stand (photos of prototype attached to show the idea), hoping to make a few of them and potentially sell them or at least give to family. Looking for the best way to connect the long neck to the base in an easy, secure and durable way. Would dowels do the trick here, or would you consider it necessary to use dominos (I don't have a domino joiner but could use a router) or a mortise and tenon joint? I'm not sure how complicated I need to make this for it to last a long time. Bonus points for any ideas that would allow it to be shipped apart and easily assembled by a customer in a way that will securing hold their guitar...

    Thank y'all in advance!

    20221102_130756.jpg20221102_130731.jpg

  2. #2
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    You have the vertical part braced pretty well in the front-to-back direction, but not very well in the sideways direction.

    Mortise and tenon is the furnituremaker's go-to joint. But you have to fix the sideways bracing.

  3. #3
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    Pre drill and counter sink some holes from the bottom and screw it together. You can ship it in pieces and let the end user put it together. No need to make this complicated. You could cut a shallow mortice and tenon for alignment purposes if you want.
    Last edited by Cary Falk; 11-04-2022 at 9:01 PM.

  4. #4
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    Bed rail hardware?, a "V" dove tail, Ikea style cam fasteners, Or a tusk tenon and some feet. It is a neat stand. I like the graceful curve!

    Machine lag screws and bolts in countersunk holes? ...
    Last edited by Maurice Mcmurry; 11-04-2022 at 7:27 AM. Reason: another thought
    Best Regards, Maurice

  5. #5
    Cary for the win. KISS

  6. #6
    If the end user is going to connect the neck to the base, I would install threaded inserts in the end grain at the bottom of the neck, lined up to holes in the base that have a stepped hole made by a Forstner bit for insetting the heads of knock down furniture bolts. I would include those bolts and a matching Allen wrench in the hardware packet. You can go simpler by including wood screws, countersinking the bottom of the base, and drilling matching pilot holes in the end grain at the bottom of the neck, but people can more easily mess that up. Just my opinion. You have several OK options.

  7. #7
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    Ditto on Dons suggestion. If you can figure out a tusk tenon or dove tail you might be able to add a decimal point to your $
    Last edited by Maurice Mcmurry; 11-04-2022 at 7:24 PM.
    Best Regards, Maurice

  8. #8
    Haven't been able to give all your replies my full attention yet but wanted to stop in and say thank you, these are some great ideas, and not ones I had considered! Really appreciate you taking the time to give your suggestions.

  9. #9
    I would go the threaded insert route before running screws into the end grain of the upright piece. That will only last just so long before stripping the threads and failing. And yes, some method of alignment as has been suggested.
    David
    CurlyWoodShop on Etsy, David Falkner on YouTube, difalkner on Instagram

  10. #10
    Is it necessary to glue/epoxy the inserts to prevent them from pulling out?

  11. #11
    Not really. Some people put CA glue around the outside threads of the inserts, but I see that as a precaution, not a necessity. An interesting coincidence is that many acoustic guitars nowadays have their necks bolted on, with the bolts going through the head block and into threaded inserts set into the end grain of the neck heel. As long as you are smart about how you install the inserts, I don’t think you need glue.

  12. #12
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    These are another part that create a strong, durable, reversible joint. And a quick, freehand mock-up of a V dovetail. They require at least 1 inch of thickness.

    IMG_0874.jpg

    IMG_0875.jpg IMG_0876.jpg IMG_0877 2.jpg

    The V dovetail is very strong. Even in soft Hemlock this holds over 50 pounds. Your upright on the guitar stand would be hard to make as a blind joint. You could slide it together through an open grove and create a plug to close the grove. With hard wood you might not need glue. When everything is just right the way it locks together is satisfying.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by Maurice Mcmurry; 11-06-2022 at 9:02 AM. Reason: images + test
    Best Regards, Maurice

  13. #13
    Thank you for sharing those, Maurice! I just donated and can see the images now. I like both ideas, though they may be beyond the scope of the current project as I was planning to use 3/4" for the neck. I love how there are so many different ways to accomplish the same task, depending on the particular tools and skills available. I think this puzzle solving aspect is my favorite aspect of woodworking so far. I'll consider all the options and pick one to try and update with the results - thank you all for your help!

  14. #14
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    Good old wood screws could be just fine. Brackets or a brace to help support the upright are a good consideration too. Zoom in on Bradley Gray's music stands. He has a great design with some functional similarities.
    Last edited by Maurice Mcmurry; 11-10-2022 at 5:53 PM.
    Best Regards, Maurice

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cary Falk View Post
    Pre drill and counter sink some holes from the bottom and screw it together...
    Screws (or inserts) in end grain? Not a chance of staying together.

    I would fashion a mortice and tenon joint which clamped the base to the vertical.
    "Anything seems possible when you don't know what you're doing."

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