Good but reasonably priced fret or coping saw

[Jim Koepke]

the need to insert the blade bowed so that it mostly straightens as the frame itself bows under tension (which may be visible in the photo of my fret saw).

This is another good point. The back of my less expensive saws is not as rigid as the back of the KC saw. It may be the non-rigid tendency of the backs or the difficulty of getting as high of tension on my one saw that causes me to break blades.

My smaller saw is preferred over the two German saws since it is lighter and less clumsy to use. It doesn't have the blade tensioning screw like the German saws.

jtk

[James Pallas]

I struggled breaking blades at first, years ago. Once you learn not to turn the saw unless you are on a cutting stroke either pushing or pulling blade breakage goes away for the most part. Light pressure and turning on the cutting stroke with a fret saw will come very close to a 90* corner. The only limiting factor is the height of the blade. I cut on push or pull. You need to be able to cut push if working with finished face close to the line or on it so you don’t make chips in the finish. It also helps greatly to be able to cut with either hand so you can approach from either side. Don’t rush yourself, work at your speed of accuracy.
Jim

[Michael Bulatowicz]

Thanks for the kind words and the further thoughts, Thomas. Doubtless, there are plenty of people with better fret saw skills than mine.

I'll admit that I'm curious about the Knew Concepts saws--and there are things to like about the design and the location of manufacture. Maybe someday I'll get to try one and decide I like it enough to purchase one.

[Rob Luter]

Finally got back in the shop to do some quick work and take photos; I don’t see a need for an expensive coping/fret saw, but perhaps I’m missing something.

Here’s my fret saw (no maker’s mark to be found) with an Olson PGT 8 TPI skip reverse tooth blade:

Attachment 489588

Here’s a dovetail in pine after sawing out the waste (straight off the dovetail saw and fret saw, no final paring yet). Outside:
Attachment 489589

. . . and inside:
Attachment 489590

Sorry for the rotated photos.

I’m happy with my fret saw as-is. Can anyone explain how an expensive fret saw would improve my results?

I used to have a couple of these, both Olson. I couldn't get enough tension in the blade to control the cut in anything but very thin, very soft wood. They were otherwise very nice little saws.

[Brad Roof]

I agree with this sentiment. I bought the same fret saw and it works and cost less than 20 dollars. If you have a habit restore near you stop by...they usually have a box full of old coping saws and buy a few of them....they were usually a dollar or less....get a few washers and take up some of the slack and put a good blade on it and you will be able to accomplish the task at hand. I have tried the KC saws at the shows and they are nice....but for a hobby woodworker, it's a tough sell in my opinion