Good but reasonably priced fret or coping saw

[Bob Cooper]

I’m putting my Christmas list together and I’d like to learn how to cut dovetails this year. So one item I think I need is a decent coping or fret saw. I’m fine with spending money for good tools but I don’t want to waste money given my skill set.

any suggestions

[Brad Chenoweth]

Geez Bob! Money is never wasted on an expensive tool

[Richard Line]

I'm sure you've looked at the current thread about the NK saws. I was in your position several years back, I had an old, cheap coping saw that wasn't good for close work (helped along that road by my skills). I bought the 'standard' copying saw from Lee Valley and found it works well. My only (mild) complaint is changing the blade angle involves loosening and tightening a screw with a lot of tension on it. I've also bought the 'standard' fret saw from LV, the 3" clearance one, and I like the way it cuts, but the blade can't be rotated. I've tried twisting the blade to cut at 45 deg.; that works well, but sawing along a line is not as automatic as with a straight blade.

Another option is the trick I read by Swartz for 'tuning' a cheap coping saw. Put 1 or maybe 2 flat washers between the blade frame and the handle. This spacer adds more compression or stiffness to the saw once it is tighten all the way.

[Tom M King]

I own one of the Knewconcepts saws, but get by fine with German jewelers saws. I can get more tension on the blade easier with one of these. I put the handle against my chest, and the end of the saw loop against something immovable, and tighten the blade. I can pluck a much higher note than what the Knewconcepts saw clamps can hold, and the thumbscrews are easy to operate.

I have several sizes of these. The only trouble, and the only reason I have a Knewconcepts jewelers saw is because the blade orientation is adjustable, whereas with the German ones you only get one way. The German one is my preference for cutting straight ahead. I cut on the push stroke most of the time.

Another advantage of the German ones is you can adjust the frame to use broken blades.

https://www.esslinger.com/jewelers-s...table-3-depth/

I also get by fine with an Olsen, and a Disston coping saw, and I cut to the line. I usually take several out of the box so I don't have to switch blade orientation in the middle of a job. In this picture, there is a Knewconcepts, a German jewelers saw, and the two coping saws. They all come out of the box when I have molding to cope.

I chisel dovetail sockets.

[Tom Trees]

Have I seen someone tension a cheap saw with a cheap turnbuckle before...
was it a bit of a good idea which didn't really work so well ?

[James Pallas]

I have 3 coping saws 2 fives and a six and 2 fret saws a three and a giant 12. I keep one coping saw loaded push and one pull and one left whatever it was used last. One is an Olson, one is an old craftsman the other is not marked. Good blades are important. I use the three fret saw the most. If it’s not deep enough I just turn around and cut from the other direction. If I need more depth I break out the monster one. I usually chop dovetails with the board flat. Two cuts to the base line flip (if it’s thru) two cuts and than split the rest. To me it’s an extra step to cope. I admit that I don’t do those tiny pins. I’ll occasionally do an eighth because I have a chisel.
Jim

[Bob Cooper]

So what’s the main difference between a coping saw and a fret saw in this application. Do I just need to get a couple inexpensive standard LV coping saws though the jewelers saw — still cheap — looks nice. I’m not seeing the big value I’m a 150+ saw.

[Derek Cohen]

Bob, while I am the greatest supporter of the KC fretsaw, no one needs to be starting out with one. In the same way that one does not need the best dovetail saw or best chisels. We all learn the rudiments first with inexpensive tools. They all work. They can all do a good job. Eventually, we trade up to better tools - better in the sense of quality and control. They make it easier, but you likely would not appreciate this if you started out with them.

The Swiss and German jeweller saws are good fretsaws. I used one for many years. Rob Cosman swears by his, and he twists the blade to cut at 45 degrees. I used to do this as well. The KC angles the blade for you. Once you have mastered dovetailing, get one.

The other point is that fretsawing the waste is just one way of removing it. Another is chiselling it out.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[fritz eng]

Just a heads up....ordered what was advertised as a fret saw by Olsen from Home Depot. What I received TWICE was a ZONA brand. Classic example of bait and switch.

[Jim Koepke]

with German jewelers saws. I can get more tension on the blade easier with one of these. I put the handle against my chest, and the end of the saw loop against something immovable, and tighten the blade. I can pluck a much higher note than what the Knewconcepts saw clamps can hold, and the thumbscrews are easy to operate.

This may works well until trying to do some decorative piercing work with the blade going through the work while trying to tighten the blade.

The inexpensive saws are good for learning. One thing you will learn is to get the blade highly tensioned.

These were my first fret saws:

Fret Saws.jpg

The one on the left has no tension adjustment other than pressing the back into position and tightening the wing bolt.

The second from the left is a Great Neck. The back has an adjuster and there is another at the top of the frame. This one allows the blade to be set at any angle.

The last two are both from Germany and have blade tension adjusters at the top of the frame.

My problem with all of these was blades breaking or slipping out of the holding jaws. The blade breaking may have been due to my inexperience using these.

I may have sold the Great Neck. interesting concept but totally awkward in use. The others are still used at times when an odd blade, like a spiral cut is desired.

After a decade of using these a Knew Concepts saw, with the 45º stops, was purchased. This was before they came out with one that turns a full 180º. It has been tempting me, but it is not needed or desired as much as some other items at this time.

Thoughts of changing the handle have crossed my mind, but it hasn't yet been done.

jtk

[Tom M King]

On those adjustable jewelers saws, I don't use the adjustable back to tension the blade, but only to set the length for whatever blade you're using. That Great Neck is an interesting looking one. I don't remember the last blade I broke with one of them.

[Bob Cooper]

Thanks. This definitely feels like one of those “just get something reasonable and develop some skill asap and then you’ll appreciate something nicer”. It’s not a case of buying a mid range vs high end tool makes a huge difference early on

[Jim Koepke]

Thanks. This definitely feels like one of those “just get something reasonable and develop some skill asap and then you’ll appreciate something nicer”. It’s not a case of buying a mid range vs high end tool makes a huge difference early on

You may be able to find a local lapidary (rock shop), hobby shop or jewelry supply carrying fret saws.

Amazon has them starting at ~$15.

jtk

[chris carter]

Call me crazy, but I’ve always just used a $7 Craftsman coping saw. It works and I honestly can’t imagine how much of an improvement I’d get from some higher end saw. It can do a 360 degree turn in one spot and I can cut out waste very close to the baseline in one pass. I’ve never used a fret saw so maybe I just don’t know what I’m missing. But when I see people use those, they cut awful slow and they complain that they go through blades quickly. Maybe if I were making those 1/16^th inch pins then I’d fall in love with a fret saw, but I’ve never been tempted to make those kinds of pins. On the flip side, if I have big dovetails I used my 1/8^th turning saw. It can’t turn around and around in one single spot so I have to cut out the waste in two swipes. The coping saw would work fine for those bigger dovetails, but the turning saw is just plain fun to use and it cuts through would super-fast.

[Jim Koepke]

I’ve always just used a $7 Craftsman coping saw.

That must be an old price. Currently the Sears site doesn't show a Craftsman coping saw. The inexpensive saws at Home Depot are almost twice the price.

Lowes shows an Irwin Marples branded coping saw with one blade for ~$10.

jtk