Strategy for applying Arm-R-Seal to long table with waterfall edge

[Malcolm Schweizer]

Late to the conversation, but I want to address a few things I see that I disagree with, with all due respect to everyone here. Just trying to add knowledge to the conversation, and not to argue.

Satin and semigloss absolutely does need to be stirred frequently during application. The solids settle quickly, and when finishing a large table, for example, you may see more gloss at one end compared to the other when cured. I had this happen on a large dining table that I failed to stir the varnish during application. I am sure this varies by product and viscosity. A thinned product would need more frequent stirring. Put a satin varnish in a clear jar or squirt bottle, and you can see the separation. It happens faster than you might think.

I do not recommend anything with a nap (rollers and pads) because they tend to leave behind fuzzy bits of nap in the finish.

Something I recently started doing for wiped finishes is to make a mouse just like French polishing, using cotton wadding as the fill, and a synthetic cloth as the outer wrap. I found the synthetic doesn’t leave any fibers behind, and it also has a smoother finish when applying wet finishes like varnishes. (For French polishing I use cotton outer wrap.) Soak the cotton wadding and apply the finish in straight wiping motions with the grain.

I was going to say 150 is too coarse of a grit, but I researched and to my surprise, their website recommends 150 for raw wood. Honestly, I would still go 220 or even 320 myself, especially for soft woods and for lighter woods where sanding scratches tend to show up more. I have to note, however, that they do say 150 for raw wood on their site. They do say 220 to 320 for applying over existing finishes.

[Mel Fulks]

Late to the conversation, but I want to address a few things I see that I disagree with, with all due respect to everyone here. Just trying to add knowledge to the conversation, and not to argue.

Satin and semigloss absolutely does need to be stirred frequently during application. The solids settle quickly, and when finishing a large table, for example, you may see more gloss at one end compared to the other when cured. I had this happen on a large dining table that I failed to stir the varnish during application. I am sure this varies by product and viscosity. A thinned product would need more frequent stirring. Put a satin varnish in a clear jar or squirt bottle, and you can see the separation. It happens faster than you might think.

I do not recommend anything with a nap (rollers and pads) because they tend to leave behind fuzzy bits of nap in the finish.

Something I recently started doing for wiped finishes is to make a mouse just like French polishing, using cotton wadding as the fill, and a synthetic cloth as the outer wrap. I found the synthetic doesn’t leave any fibers behind, and it also has a smoother finish when applying wet finishes like varnishes. (For French polishing I use cotton outer wrap.) Soak the cotton wadding and apply the finish in straight wiping motions with the grain.

I was going to say 150 is too coarse of a grit, but I researched and to my surprise, their website recommends 150 for raw wood. Honestly, I would still go 220 or even 320 myself, especially for soft woods and for lighter woods where sanding scratches tend to show up more. I have to note, however, that they do say 150 for raw wood on their site. They do say 220 to 320 for applying over existing finishes.

I never see any mention of “sponging” with warm to hot water , but years ago in employments I had to do it. It assured that any bent over
smushed fibers got “ shaved off”. In Olden days they used “horse tail” reed for ‘finest grit ‘. Mel has tested it and it’s about 220. The stuff
grows like crazy and it’s FREE.