Drawer Slide vs Cabinet Door

[vince mastrosimone]

Greetings,
I built some cabinets for the wife and ran into a snag at the end of the project. The drawers work well on the slides, no problem there. The issue came when I installed the doors. I used Blum 38N hinges, partial 1/2” overlay. When the doors are open, they protrude slightly into the cabinet frame opening. Then the drawer slide cannot make it past the door.

i have three options (I think).
1. Trim the door to allow the slide to pass
2. Inset the hinge slightly in the frame. I’d worry about having enough adjustment left to close the center gap. This is a two door cabinet.
3. Use a different Blum hinge, but which one?

lm looking for advice from the learned hands of the Creek. Thanks.

[Cameron Wood]

Let the slide into the side of the pull-out?

[Jamie Buxton]

The usual design for pullouts is to make the pullout narrow enough to clear the door, and fasten spacers to the cabinet wall to reach out to where the drawer is.

[vince mastrosimone]

Let the slide into the side of the pull-out?

Possible right answer. thanks.

[Rich Engelhardt]

Check this thread out:
https://sawmillcreek.org/showthread....ose-to-drawers

[vince mastrosimone]

The usual design for pullouts is to make the pullout narrow enough to clear the door, and fasten spacers to the cabinet wall to reach out to where the drawer is.

I have learned a lesson. My first cabinet job. Thanks for the input.

[Richard Coers]

Change the hinges. They make hinges specifically for this situation. That make it a 5 minute fix

[Justin Rapp]

Greetings,
I built some cabinets for the wife and ran into a snag at the end of the project. The drawers work well on the slides, no problem there. The issue came when I installed the doors. I used Blum 38N hinges, partial 1/2” overlay. When the doors are open, they protrude slightly into the cabinet frame opening. Then the drawer slide cannot make it past the door.

i have three options (I think).
1. Trim the door to allow the slide to pass
2. Inset the hinge slightly in the frame. I’d worry about having enough adjustment left to close the center gap. This is a two door cabinet.
3. Use a different Blum hinge, but which one?

lm looking for advice from the learned hands of the Creek. Thanks.

#3 get zero protrusion hinges like this:

https://www.wwhardware.com/blum-155-...hinges-b071t75

or

https://www.woodworkerexpress.com/sa...UaAp8MEALw_wcB

[Dave Sabo]

Change the hinges. They make hinges specifically for this situation. That make it a 5 minute fix

not that attach to a frame.

you could use a euro type hinge and mounting plate on a block and get there, but it’s more than a 5 min fix.

[vince mastrosimone]

#3 get zero protrusion hinges like this:

https://www.wwhardware.com/blum-155-...hinges-b071t75



https://www.woodworkerexpress.com/sa...UaAp8MEALw_wcB

Unfortunately the bulkiness of the part of the hinge that mounts on the door frame will not work in my situation. The drawer box will hit it I believe.

[Dave Sabo]

Unfortunately the bulkiness of the part of the hinge that mounts on the door frame will not work in my situation. The drawer box will hit it I believe.

unless you move the drawer above / below the hinges. Unfortunately there is no quick fix by simply swapping out a hinge.

[Justin Rapp]

Unfortunately the bulkiness of the part of the hinge that mounts on the door frame will not work in my situation. The drawer box will hit it I believe.

If the draw box is in line with the hinge, you might have an issue and will need to remake the drawer and put spacers in between the side of the cabinet and the drawer slide to make the drawer fit between the hinges.

[Michael Schuch]

The usual design for pullouts is to make the pullout narrow enough to clear the door, and fasten spacers to the cabinet wall to reach out to where the drawer is.

I think it is fair to say the OP probably knows this now.