Bought a Jet 1840EVS….now what….newbie alert!

[Steve Bujalski]

Guys, I just purchased a whole shop of new Jet equipment 20” HH Planer(never used still need to set it up) a 8” jointer, 14” bandsaw (the 13” resale model), spindle sander, dust collector, air cleaner, and drill press. In the package also included was a 52” 5hp industrial Sawstop and a Jet 1840 lathe.

The only tools that were included was a 5pc Lee Vally set. They are a small set with the longest maybe 12”.

I haven’t turned on a lathe since 9th grade….1980 ish. I already contacted a local turning club and joined the AAW.

I’m looking to purchase a few tools. I’m thinking I’ll be mostly turning spindles and bowls.

Any suggestions on what to purchase first?

I like to buy and cry the first time.

Thanks.

[Jim Morgan]

Congratulations on your big score!

After 45 years of woodworking, I figured I had accumulated just about every gadget. Then I started turning more seriously and discovered that it's a whole 'nother world out there.

Safety equipment first: a face shield (Uvex Bionic is fine for starters) and safety glasses.

Sharpening equipment next: a slow-speed grinder with at least one CBN wheel replacing a stock wheel. Lots of people like the Wolverine system. You will need an adjustable-angle platform; for gouges, most prefer the Vari-grind One.

Next, ways to hold your work on the lathe. The Oneway live tailstock center is excellent; you might also invest in a ¾ x 10 tap so that you can screw on various work-holding accessories that you make. Drill chuck with a #2 Morse taper for making holes. Four-jaw scroll chuck, etc., etc. Doc Green's Fixtures and Chucks book is a good resource.

And of course tools - you will get lots of recommendations on those. Don't buy a set: get what you need when you need it. For starters: a spindle roughing gouge, a parting tool, a ⅜" or ½" spindle gouge, a ½" bowl gouge. Sorby is decent brand, Robust is generally better, Thompson or D-Way are better yet. The possibilities are endless.

Good luck!

[Reed Gray]

Well, I used to say that the lathe was about half the cost of getting into turning. I think it is closer to 1/4. You need some gouges both bowl and spindle detail gouges, a spindle roughing gouge, scrapers, and a skew or two. My preference for tools are those from Doug Thompson, and from D Way, which are V10 powder metal, and M42 high speed steel. They keep the best edges. For a grinder, I went with a 1 hp Rikon, and you may have to order one since the 1/2 hp one sells faster. I consider the 1/2 hp one to be a bit under powered. You could also go with a Baldor which I think is now over $1000. If you get one CBN wheel, then get a 180. If you get 2, I suggest a 180 and a 600. You will need a chuck or 5. The Easy Chuck has really quick changing jaws, and most other chucks are a pain to change the jaws. I prefer the Vicmark chucks. Some prefer Oneway, and others the Nova. I think they are probably all pretty good. Dust collection is good also. Oneida probably has the most compact units out there, and made in the USA. Clear View is another one. Do you have a bandsaw? Or 2? I have a small one for cutting circles, and a large one, 16 inch high, for cutting slabs. A table saw may come in handy if you get into segmented work. Hollowing tools are another thing if you get into that.... A chainsaw? if you are turning bowls, they are essential, and a good hand truck. Abrasives, both for hand sanding, and if you do bowls, you need an angle drill. I go to Vince's WoodNWonders for mine. Ken Rizza of Woodturner's Wonders also has abrasives, and Steve Worchester, I think, sells other abrasives. many choices. Face shield, and maybe a respirator.

The thing about joining a club is that you can probably try out most of the different tools, and clubs have mentors. I do have a bunch of videos up on You Tube, mostly about bowl turning.

robo hippy

[David Bassett]

... The only tools that were included was a 5pc Lee Vally set. They are a small set with the longest maybe 12”. ...

On LV the 5 piece set I find is HSS from Henry Taylor and includes 3 spindle gouges, a small skew, and a parting tool. They should be good quality and I'd use them to start with spindles. A Spindle Roughing Gouge, to take square to round, is the only basic spindle tool missing. For bowls you will need a bowl gouge and you can use a bigger bowl gouge in the SRG role for spindles too. So maybe add a basic 3/8" or 1/2" bowl gouge first. I'd start slowly, as you learn and gain experience you'll develop your own preferences.

As far as "buy once, cry once", I'd recommend Doug Thompson's Thompson Lathe Tools . As far as reputation, D-Way Tools is right up there too.

[Thomas Wilson80]

What do you plan on turning?

To start you will need a sharpening system with slow speed grinder. I use the wolverine system and it is simple and works great. There are several like it and every turner has an opinion but the main thing is to get something that creates clean, repeatable edges.

You will need face/dust protection (a must!!!). I started out with a bionic faceshield but now have a faceshield with built in resporators.

You will need something to sand/finish your work with - I started out buying Harbor Freight sandpaper but now prefer Klingspor's gold. I also eventually bought a Harbor Freight corded drill and round sanding discs from Vince's WoodNWonders for better sanding on bowls.
For finishing, I use beeswax on a lot of spindle turnings and Watco Danish oil for most bowls/hollow forms.

I didn't start with dust control and would just open my garage, but my wife hated her car covered in dust and now my shop is in a basement with a Clearvue CV1800.

I would recommend only buying the tools for what you want to turn - if bowls, get a 1/2" bowl gouge (Thompson or Dway) and a thin parting tool. If spindle work (boxes/ornaments/rolling pins etc.) I would recommend getting a skew (I like my 1/2" Thompson), spindle gouge (3/8 or 1/2" Thompson/Dway) and a thin parting tool to start. You can get a spindle roughing gouge (I added a 1" Benjamins Best after a few months but you can use a skew to rough turn as well, so not necessary to start) and various scrapers (once I started doing boxes I bought a couple of specific shaped scrapers and then later added a large scraper (or 3) for the bottom of bowls/sheer scraping, etc).

I'm still fairly new and don't have a lot of time to turn, but I initially learned from YouTube for a couple years before joining my local club. YouTube is hit or miss with a lot of crappy turners using poor technique or even dangerous technique, but I find it extremely helpful with good demonstrators. I highly recommend Brian Havens for beginners, as well as the craft supplies videos by Kirk DeHeer. Richard Raffen started doing YouTube this year and I like his videos, but he makes everything look so easy but doesn't give as much explanation for beginners. That being said, the local club will be extremely useful.

Good luck and welcome. Be sure to post your work, good and bad. This forum has helped me a lot over the last few years.

Tom

[Steve Bujalski]

Great info so far. Thank you all.

I neglected to say that I already owned a Tormek T7 and also a Jet 1 HP grinder. However, is is a 3450 RPM machine. I have no turning jigs for the Tormek.

Any pluses to HSS over carbide?

[Thomas Wilson80]

Any pluses to HSS over carbide?

Steve, I started with a $250 set of carbide scrapers that I saw a guy on YouTube using. He seemed to get great results and as I didn't want the hassle/cost of sharpening, I took the plunge. After using them for a couple projects, the quality was so poor and required extensive sanding so I quickly bought a grinder/sharpening system and a couple traditional tools from Thompson (skew, bowl gouge, spindle gouge) and learned to use each tool individually. For me, turning is much more enjoyable with traditional tools - the finish is way better and I've enjoyed the process of learning how to use each tool. I never use my carbide cutters....ever! But others swear by them, so it's your call. In all of the YT videos and club demos I've seen, most experienced turners rarely use typical carbide cutters for the bulk of their work, FWIW.

One thing to consider is the Hunter carbide tools - they are cup shaped so it is actually cutting, not scraping. Some people love these and use them extensively. I have one and use it occasionally and it works great for a lot of things and gives a much better finish than typical carbide cutters, but personally, I still prefer using traditional tools for most cases. But that is just my opinion. You could ask to try some tools at your club and get a feel for what you prefer, thus saving the cost of buying tools you won't like/need.

Tom

[Reed Gray]

Carbide does work. For scrapers, they are small, and easy to control. I use scrapers for all of my heavy roughing on bowls, but most don't. My go to tool is the Big Ugly. Actually have some one who said they want to make them. If you want good finish cuts with the carbide tools, then the cupped cutters from Hunter Tools work great, I guess. I don't have any of them. You do need gouges for bowls for the best cuts. End grain is a different grain orientation. With lidded boxes, you can get a glass smooth surface, at least once you get the hang of it, with the scrapers or NRSs (negative rake scrapers). I know there are some NRSs that are carbide, but I don't have any. Having a couple of those may be worthwhile. All of mine are standard metals, not the carbides.

robo hippy

[David Bassett]

... Any pluses to HSS over carbide?

Replaceable insert carbide tools, (Easy Wood Tools and their knock-offs,) have the reputation of not working as well as traditional turning tools. (The Hunters maybe an exception, no experience there.) I do think success with traditional tools depends more on your skills.

One comment from an instructor, I read long ago, comparing the two categories of tools seemed to clearly sum up what I've seen. The instructor said he always used the carbide tools in his beginning classes because he wanted 100% of his students to feel successful. In those classes some got what they wanted from turning and were satisfied, but about 90% wanted more control and more options and continued on to master traditional tools.

BTW- these days we often say HSS when we mean traditional tools: gouges, skews, etc. because it is the state of the art for them. Were you to search old tool sales, eBay or in person, you should know that tools used to use HCS which doesn't last as long and must be sharpened more carefully (if on a grinder.) There are also variations in HSS, which is why I recommended Thompson & D-Way earlier for any new tools, but differences are less dramatic than between any HSS and the older HCS tools. The tool set you (probably) have should work well for spindle turning, given you sharpen well, and last a long time. I'd advise starting slowing with new tools, perhaps only a single bowl gouge, until you have more experience and start understanding your preferences.

[Richard Coers]

A shearing cut is far superior to a scraping cut. Thompson Lathe Tools is the place to shop, but at this point I would wait until you watch some others turn and possibly find a mento in that AAW club. Buying expensive tools to sit in a drawer are not a great investment.

[Steve Bujalski]

Well...I jumped in feet first. I have the following coming:

D-Way

Roughing Gouge LRG 7-1/4" x 1-1/4" - 5/8" Tang
1/8" STD Parting Tool - 1/2" Tang
Round Nose Neg Rake Scraper - MED - 1" x 5/16" x 9"- 5/8" Tang
Curved Neg Rake Scraper - LRG - 1 5/16" x 3/8"- 5/8" Tang


Thompson

1/2″ V Bowl Gouge
3/8″ Detail Gouge

Rikon 1HP grinder
4-in-1 PLUS Design 180g CBN
Mega Square 600g CBN

Wolverine Sharpening System
Vicmarc VM120 chuck

A few smaller items such as a drill chuck, set of calipers and dividers.

Beside being broke...how'd I do?

[Dave Mount]

Beside being broke...how'd I do?

That's for you to tell us. . .are there shavings on the shop floor?

[Thomas Wilson80]

That's a great set up to start with. With more experience you'll be able to hone in on what you prefer turning and buy more specialized tools for that. GL.

Well...I jumped in feet first. I have the following coming:

D-Way

Roughing Gouge LRG 7-1/4" x 1-1/4" - 5/8" Tang
1/8" STD Parting Tool - 1/2" Tang
Round Nose Neg Rake Scraper - MED - 1" x 5/16" x 9"- 5/8" Tang
Curved Neg Rake Scraper - LRG - 1 5/16" x 3/8"- 5/8" Tang


Thompson

1/2″ V Bowl Gouge
3/8″ Detail Gouge

Rikon 1HP grinder
4-in-1 PLUS Design 180g CBN
Mega Square 600g CBN

Wolverine Sharpening System
Vicmarc VM120 chuck

A few smaller items such as a drill chuck, set of calipers and dividers.

Beside being broke...how'd I do?

[Doug Herzberg]

It sounds like you're off to a great start. It's time to start spinning some timber.

I second the Thompson gouges and Wolverine system. You'll love them once you work out the grind you want. One thing I didn't see above is breathing protection. I still have my Trend Airshield Pro and like it. It is expensive, though, as are all it's expendable supplies. I've been out of the game for awhile - there may be better, more affordable systems out there now. Take care of your lungs.