20" Planer Feed Qestion - trouble feeding large boards

[Sean Moore]

I have a Laguna 20" Planer, one of the newer PX20 models, and have noticed it is having trouble feeding larger boards. Smaller pieces are fine, but I recently had to plane down some 10/4 ash that is 6" wide and 72" long. I have to push the boards through with a decent amount of pressure and then pull them out on the other side in order for it to feed. If I dont touch the board it wont move. Same goes for some 8/4 walnut that is similarly sized. Im taking a fairly small cut, maybe 1/32 or 1/16" max.

Is it normal to have to help feed boards of that size through a machine, or do I need to go in and make adjustments to the feed rollers? The machine is 5hp, but I have no relative experience with other planers of this size.

[Mike Cutler]

No, you shouldn’t need to push and pull material through your planer.
Those are not large material pieces you’re referring to. A 5hp planer should easily b handle them.
Check the settings of your pressure rollers and feed rollers.
These are jointed boards, correct?

[Mel Fulks]

It could be just low grade knives. I’ve seen it before. Some planers are sold with low grade knives that leave a lot of striations . If you see
non -shiny wood surface and striation on newly planed wood,buy some T-1 or M2 knives and use the original junk on some free fine wood
that is full of grit ,and perhaps, a nail or two.

[Greg Quenneville]

And ensure that the tables are well waxed. Planers are sensitive to too much friction on the tables.

[Bradley Gray]

A late model like yours should have a manual available. Check bed rollers, in and out feed rollers and pressure bar.

Also, run the piece left, right and center. On some planers you need to raise the pressure bar while running a board.

[Steve Jenkins]

And ensure that the tables are well waxed. Planers are sensitive to too much friction on the tables.

THIS. Most times waxing the table solves the problem. As in most things try the simplest first.

[Ron Citerone]

THIS. Most times waxing the table solves the problem. As in most things try the simplest first.

Never owned a big planer, but have had 3 smaller ones. A good waxing worked wonders for me with feeding issues, plus it costs next to nothing to try.

[Mel Fulks]

THIS. Most times waxing the table solves the problem. As in most things try the simplest first.

Sure , It might help. BUT some of that steel is really bad stuff. You can test one of the knives against a quality knife by wrapping a cloth
around the ends to make a ‘handle’ and use the knife like a draw-knife. The good steel will slide easily through the wood. The junk knives
will not. In employments I got a couple of bosses to buy good steel by telling them that if they bought the steel I recommended ,and they
did not think it was better, I would buy it from them. They tried it and agreed it worked much better. I’m guessing that most of the knives
in new machines are rubbish grade.

[Phillip Mitchell]

That’s not a “wide” board, especially for a 20” machine, and not something you should be fighting.

i would troubleshoot in this order -

-wax beds (consistently before use)
-confirm / check height settings of feed rollers, pressure bar, etc in relation to cutterhead - likely need a dial indicator setup to do this accurately - the manual /manufacturer should have specs on this published and available. does it have bed rollers? If so, Lower them down below bed surface
-assess quality of knife steel (and sharpness) and possibly upgrade to something of known high quality - CGG Schmidt is not a bad source, but I’m sure many here can offer multiple options.

[Richard Coers]

If that machine has bed rollers, all these wax the table comments won't help. Once the board gets up on both rollers, it doesn't touch the table. My guess is the bed rollers are set very close to the table to reduce snipe and as suggested, the boards have not been made flat on a jointer.

[Sean Moore]

If that machine has bed rollers, all these wax the table comments won't help. Once the board gets up on both rollers, it doesn't touch the table. My guess is the bed rollers are set very close to the table to reduce snipe and as suggested, the boards have not been made flat on a jointer.

The boards have been flattened by a jointer and my machine has a spiral cutterhead. When you say bed rollers, you mean the infeed and out feed rollers, or the roller that is underneath the board on the bed of the machine?

[David Zaret]

And ensure that the tables are well waxed. Planers are sensitive to too much friction on the tables.

this. it's a critical thing. wax the tables often.

[Mel Fulks]

Oops we missed it. Back to 4th grade “ reading comprehension “ I go !.

Taking the tiny cut is the problem. Take off at least 1/16th with each pass. It’s a PLANER ,NOT a sander.

[Kevin Jenness]

Oops we missed it. Back to 4th grade “ reading comprehension “ I go !.

Taking the tiny cut is the problem. Take off at least 1/16th with each pass. It’s a PLANER ,NOT a sander.

A planer ought to feed properly with a minimal cut. If waxing the table doesn't work, look at the feed roller, chipbreaker and pressure bar setup and adjust to spec.

[Warren Lake]

thats not accurate Richard. I run my table rollers below the table and using wax is night and day, no rollers.

Sounds like the machine is set up poorly. All set up begins from knife projection out of the head which determines the cutting circle which determines the settings of pressure rollers, feed rollers etc. There will be info in the manual of the specs on that stuff for your machine.