Dinning table bulid question

[lou Brava]

Any input on constructing this top would be appreciated. The table in the pic obviously uses veneer on the skirt & I'm going to use solid wood. My question is would you lay up the top complete than rip the miters ? The top will be 2 pieces sliding with leaf in middle. They will be aprx. 40" wide & 45" long. What seems to make most sense is to glue up thetop & cut miters. What has me concerned is the size of it & controlling it to achieve a decent miter, the other is the rip on the long side will turn into a cross cut on the end board. The problem I see in cutting the miters first than gluing it together would alignment & clamping up the sharp edge of a 45 will be difficult. Thanks in advance !
Screenshot 2022-10-06 at 07-41-52 Ayla Extendable Dining Table.jpg
Edit, top materiel will be 4/4 or 3/4 & table saw is a full sie 10" cabinet saw

[Mark Hennebury]

Can you do a sketch of what you are talking about; I am confused by your explanation; There are no miters on this table. there is no visible skirt on this table.

[Kevin Jenness]

It's not clear what you are proposing. Are you going to make a solid wood top with a breadboard end? If that's the case I don't see any need for miters, and running an edgeband (skirt?)across the breadboard end will only cause trouble.

Are you planning a veneered sketch face as the photo indicates, with a solid edgeband mitered to the top and end band? If so, it would be easier to use a thick veneer band without a miter and hide the gluelines in a chamfer at the corners.

I think in terms of design veneering a farm table top is equivocal, but it would allow for a lighter, more stable top depending on the layup details.

[Prashun Patel]

I suspect he means to miter the solid wood edging to meet the top.

I am with the other guys: Use 8/4 stock and no edge band; therefore no motets. That leg detail is pretty neat. You could probably slide that all the way along the width and skip the breadboard end altogether (not that it’s really needed on this anyway.

[lou Brava]

Thanks for the replies, sorry for poor explanation.
The part I'm calling a skirt is 90 degrees down from the flat/top part of the table.
Yes, solid wood top bread breadboard end as shown in the pic. There is no end grain is showing if you enlarge the pic it's easy to see the bread board end has been veneered same as the sides. That's the look I'm trying to achieve
Is the trouble with mitering the breadboard end to the skirt/apron part a strength problem or something else ? I'm thinking a lock miter or biscuits for the miters.
It's a farm table with a very contemporary look & I know it would much easier to veneer the sides/skirt. But I was thinking solid wood will be more durable and just make a "nicer" table. Maybe I need to re-think this approach & design.

[Mark Hennebury]

This was a door, but same construction could be used for a table.
I hate loose leaf tables myself.
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[Kevin Jenness]

If you mean to attach a thick edge to a thinner top. there is no problem with mitering the long grain joint except for clamping. I would do a taped miterfold. The problem would be in running the edge band or skirt across the joint between the top and breadboard end because the end will maintain its length while the top's width will tend to change with seasonal relative humidity variations. Breadboard ends typically have provision for that movement including overwidth unglued mortises and pins in elongated holes. The table pictured, if not a veneered construction, is almost guaranteed to have problems down the road.

Mark's piece is an elegant solution if (I can't see clearly) the edge joints between the panel elements are unglued tongue and groove to allow for seasonal movement within the mitered outer frame. I would be wary of joining a glued panel to the ends in that manner unless the wood were very stable or expected to remain in a very stable environment. I have a picture of a temple door in Nara, Japan with a solid panel and mitered ends, but that is made of hinoki and the humidity is relatively stable there. I am sure Mark took account of all that in designing his door.

[Mark Hennebury]

Kevin, you are correct about the door construction and where the design came from.
I posted this door photos and background info on the Japanese woodworking facebook group, just last week.

"A story about a door; Back in the 90's I made a friend named Steve, he was a fellow woodworker, he had trained in Japan, returned to Canada, met the love of his life and together they designed and built an incredible unique Y-shaped house; one branch for the workshop, one for his wife's horse and the other for their home. Unfortunately, before it was completed, he was diagnosed with terminal cancer and passed away shortly thereafter. His widow asked me to make a door and to incorporate a geometric design which Steve was particularly fond of. I made this door loosely based on a Japanese Temple door that i saw in a book and routed the design in the front. The wood is quarter-sawn White Oak. The construction is pretty cool: kind of a cross between frame and panel and solid plank. The five vertical boards are not edge glued, they are tongue and grooved, with a very small gap between them. The outside ones are mitered only part of the full width of the board. The rails and stiles form a frame, the three inside boards the panel. It would be interesting to go see it as it has been 30 years since I made it. I would like to see if it held up and if so, what condition it is in especially since it had no finish and was an exterior door, in Canada, we have some nasty weather up here."

[lou Brava]

Marks door construction looks like a good way to go & that door is nice ! And I may end up copying some of that. The thing with this table in the pic is the thickness of the skirt/edge of table. So I would attempt to get the proportion of the leg joint to the skirt height somewhat close to whats in the pic. I'm guessing that dimension of the skirt/edge is around 2 1/2"-3" which would mean some very thick lumber. It's one good reason why the table in the pic is veneered. I didn't consider the top moving in width & not length creating a problem. We do live in very stable climate but I get what your saying & may be a gamble doing what I originally was thinking. I did a quick sketch of what my original thought was thinking a simple rabbit from breadboard end to the mains & full miter joints for the skirt to the top.
Thanks everyone for the input really helps.
sketch.jpg