SS Jobsite Pro So Far...

[Derek Arita]

Well, I really do like the saw so far. I started out using the WWII Thin Kerf, but switched to the 1/8 kerf for stability. The fence is really nice and I've no issues of deflection or movement. I've heard about the complaints of the fence moving when you unlock it, but really, all you have to is pull toward you when unlocking and the fence doesn't move. That's it. The problem I did have with the fence is that it's face was not flat, so I sanded it on a granite reference flat and got it down to about .001 to .002 flat.
I also have an issue with the table top not being flat. In fact, it dips like a valley as it approaches the throat. It's out about .010+ is some spots. My fix is to use .010 and .0045 thick UMHW tape to build up the low spots. So far, this seems to work pretty well.
The last problem is with the throat insert. It's way out of wack and there's almost no leveling it out. It really throws off ripping narrow boards that ride of the plate only. I do have an aftermarket ZCI from Colliflower coming and I'm hoping that will solve that issue. It's main body is machined aluminum, with slide out ZCI inserts for your blades. My fingers are crossed on that one.
I know some folks are saying that I'm expecting way too much from a jobsite saw, however I'm trying to replace a cabinet saw that took up too much space, so I'm doing my best to get the most out of this JSS Pro and so far it's working out. Everything else on the saw is working out great and I have no regrets about making the change. I keep reminding myself that my cabinet saw was not perfect either and there were things about it that I had to accept, modify or work around to be happy with it

[jerry pepper]

thanks for the update Derek! I appreciate reading this level of detail

[Randy Heinemann]

Well, I really do like the saw so far. I started out using the WWII Thin Kerf, but switched to the 1/8 kerf for stability. The fence is really nice and I've no issues of deflection or movement. I've heard about the complaints of the fence moving when you unlock it, but really, all you have to is pull toward you when unlocking and the fence doesn't move. That's it. The problem I did have with the fence is that it's face was not flat, so I sanded it on a granite reference flat and got it down to about .001 to .002 flat.
I also have an issue with the table top not being flat. In fact, it dips like a valley as it approaches the throat. It's out about .010+ is some spots. My fix is to use .010 and .0045 thick UMHW tape to build up the low spots. So far, this seems to work pretty well.
The last problem is with the throat insert. It's way out of wack and there's almost no leveling it out. It really throws off ripping narrow boards that ride of the plate only. I do have an aftermarket ZCI from Colliflower coming and I'm hoping that will solve that issue. It's main body is machined aluminum, with slide out ZCI inserts for your blades. My fingers are crossed on that one.
I know some folks are saying that I'm expecting way too much from a jobsite saw, however I'm trying to replace a cabinet saw that took up too much space, so I'm doing my best to get the most out of this JSS Pro and so far it's working out. Everything else on the saw is working out great and I have no regrets about making the change. I keep reminding myself that my cabinet saw was not perfect either and there were things about it that I had to accept, modify or work around to be happy with it

I own one of the original SS Jobsite's, bought just after they came out. I have never regretted it. I did have trouble with my insert. After SS replaced it twice and I still had the same problem - not being able to get it completely level with the table because it was "warped" - I bought the Colliflower insert (an older version). It solved my problem. The miter gauge is bad but I have an Incra sled. I have never had problems with anything else on the saw. It works well for my use, power is sufficient, accuracy is excellent, and the added safety of the brake gives me comfort should I slip up. The fact that I can fold it up and move it out of the way makes it the perfect saw for my shop.

[Derek Arita]

Randy, I’m happy to hear that about the Colliflower ZCI. That’s what I’m hoping for. It impossible to square the blade and fence to the insert if your insert is all messed up. That’s what I’ve had the toughest time with and I’m hoping the Colliflower will fix that.

[Derek Arita]

UPDATE! I finally went in to Rockler where I purchased the saw and took a close look at the one they had on display. I brought my straight edge and was able to see that the display saw had an almost flat main table! I was able to speak with the Manager and we agreed that I should return the saw I had for another one. I had my choice of 2, checked them both out and chose the one with the flattest table. It's not perfect, but I think it's been much easier to adjust to give a decent and consistent cut. With the addition of a Colliflower ZCI, I should be good, but we'll see.
My advice to anyone purchasing a Jobsite Pro, if you're looking for the saw to perform as close to a cabinet saw as possible, check the table and fence before you leave the store and get the flattest table and fence you can find.

[Maurice Mcmurry]

Good detective work and patience with you saw Derek. You have some good content for a blog or video.

[Bill Dufour]

What make? My ss saw is a cheapo from harbor fright for tile saw work. The miter gauge is garbage folded up sheet metal. The fence I could not get to work.
Bill D

[Derek Arita]

What make? My ss saw is a cheapo from harbor fright for tile saw work. The miter gauge is garbage folded up sheet metal. The fence I could not get to work.
Bill D

SawStop Jobsite Pro

[Jim Becker]

Interesting situation...I guess taking things with you to check for flat and straight is possibly a good thing at this point. {best teenager type eye roll}. At any rate, I'm glad you got things figured out and now have a saw that's not hindered by out-of-flat, etc.

[Derek Arita]

Interesting situation...I guess taking things with you to check for flat and straight is possibly a good thing at this point. {best teenager type eye roll}. At any rate, I'm glad you got things figured out and now have a saw that's not hindered by out-of-flat, etc.

Actually, the display saw must be a first gen JSS pro because certain things on it appeared different from mine. Had it been a current model, I def would have asked for the display saw, because it was very flat, as it should be. Both boxed saws were still warped, but not nearly to the degree that mine was.

[Scott Clausen]

I think the biggest difference between first gen and second is they added a little more table in front of the blade.

[Randy Heinemann]

In addition to more depth in front of the blade, the table top surface is different and the throat plate is composite rather than molded plastic (at least on the display model I saw the throat plate was better than on mine). For some, even the additional space in front of the blade won't be enough. It all depends on what you use the saw for. Even the original has always worked for me.

[Derek Arita]

In addition to more depth in front of the blade, the table top surface is different and the throat plate is composite rather than molded plastic (at least on the display model I saw the throat plate was better than on mine). For some, even the additional space in front of the blade won't be enough. It all depends on what you use the saw for. Even the original has always worked for me.

Randy, can you tell me more about your table top compared to the newer ones, please? Is it flat? I've been able to get a straight edge on three of them and they all have a valley surrounding the throat plate to some degree.

[Randy Heinemann]

Randy, can you tell me more about your table top compared to the newer ones, please? Is it flat? I've been able to get a straight edge on three of them and they all have a valley surrounding the throat plate to some degree.

Derek,

I just checked the top for flatness with my Woodpeckers straightedge. Front to back it's not perfect, but it's very close to flat. Side to side it is again not perfect, but also extremely close to flat. I've had the saw since just after it came out (maybe 4-5 years ago) and it's "close to flatness" has never caused any problems for me. (I am a perfectionist with regard to accuracy and pecision so I think it would have shown up if it was a problem.) The bigger problem was the throat plate which I solved with the after market plate.

The surface on the original saw is smooth rather than the somewhat rougher finish on the new version (as I saw it in Rockler and Woodcraft stores I frequent). The coating on the surface of my saw caused one problem however. It was uneven within the miter slot so there has always been a couple of points within the slot that are tighter fitting for the miter bar than the rest of the slot. I have never used the Sawstop miter gauge. Rather I have an Incra gauge and an Incra sled, both with adjustable miter bars. I have to adjust them just right so they don't bind in a couple spots and aren't too loose in the rest. If you have the inclination, I'd buy a Woodpeckers 25.5" miter bar(#E90-MB) and make a sled. This bar uses nylon leaf springs to self adjust the bar in the slot. It slides easily and fits perfect no matter where in the slot it is. I have used it for a segment cutting jig for segmented turning and it works extremely well.

I don't know if this helps you. I also don't know exactly how much your table varies from perfectly flat. For years I used a Ryobi BT3000 table saw. Was that table perfectly flat? No, but it was also extremely close and the Sawtop Jobsite table is slightly better than that. Neither caused me problems. As I've said before, this might be because I joint all rips. As for cross-cutting, there have never been any issues for those cross cuts I make on the saw. (I generally use my Festool track saw and the MFT to make crosscuts and it's hard to beat that accuracy with any other tool.)