Removing bolt for chuck installation on FS41

[derek labian]

So your cutter head has the hole for the pin toward the rear of the machine: my cutter head has the hole towards the front of the machine: it does seem odd that they would have made a modification on this part since its only been available for a couple of years? It does make you wonder?

It is a bit bizarre, and as Erik said, they probably aren't selling many of these add-ons anymore. I mentioned that SCM NA was surprised by how tight the bolt was on it. Unfortunately, I didn't find out if they tested on a straight knife version or an HH. If it was an HH, I should find out how they wedged rubber into it to lock the head. I can't see how you could wedge rubber into the HH version and lock the head.

Clearly its designed to work just the way you did it. :shrug:

[Brian Holcombe]

At the machine shop one thing we would do was heat the bolt and drip some beeswax into the threads. That was a last resort and often worked. If that failed, we would drill the bolt out just under the thread size and then peel the thread out.

At this point, I’d warm the bolt up enough for it to accept beeswax, then give it another shot after it starts to cool.

[Jerry Bruette]

I don't know the diameter of the bolt, but if you can drill the head off everything might release. I've had to do that several times with socket head screws. Either the socket would get boogered up or on a flat head like yours the taper of the head is wedged super tight.

You'll need a drill bit that is the same size or slightly bigger than the smallest diameter of the taper but not as big as the major diameter of the threads. You should be able to keep everything on center using the wrench socket like a pilot for your drill.

Drill slow and use some cutting oil.

[derek labian]

At the machine shop one thing we would do was heat the bolt and drip some beeswax into the threads. That was a last resort and often worked. If that failed, we would drill the bolt out just under the thread size and then peel the thread out.

At this point, I’d warm the bolt up enough for it to accept beeswax, then give it another shot after it starts to cool.

I did try heating it up with a heat gun and injecting PB Blaster. It probably didn't get hot enough because those rollers and belts are next to it and I was a bit concerned about that. Perhaps I'll try again with something more direct.

[Ronald Blue]

There is a huge difference in impacts. After a career in heavy equipment repair I came to rely on Ingersoll Rand composite bodies and Milwaukee cordless. There is also benefit to for example 3/4" drive over 1/2" drive. The larger impact while has fewer blows per minute they are more powerful. This doesn't help you much because you are already committed with what you have. Air supply is also critical on an air impact. They demand high volume and the less hose you use the better. Use at least 3/8" air line. Also if you can you can dial up the pressure. I know they say 90 PSI but 140 is better. Good luck with this.

[Ronald Blue]

I don't know the diameter of the bolt, but if you can drill the head off everything might release. I've had to do that several times with socket head screws. Either the socket would get boogered up or on a flat head like yours the taper of the head is wedged super tight.

You'll need a drill bit that is the same size or slightly bigger than the smallest diameter of the taper but not as big as the major diameter of the threads. You should be able to keep everything on center using the wrench socket like a pilot for your drill.


Drill slow and use some cutting oil.

This actually works extremely well with this style bolt or regular socket heads. We always drilled the size of the bolt. When it got to the base of the shank the head breaks off. Regardless the result is the same in most instances. The dimple from the drill is the center mark if you need to resort to more drastic measures.

[mreza Salav]

You need to make the bolt colder (not hot) to loosen it, not sure why they gave the opposite advice.
I don't know how you can make the bolt cold (dry ice? Liquid nitrogen spray?) then try the impact gun, or heat the block and then cold the bolt.

[derek labian]

There is an update. The bolt is off after a mere seven months After getting suggestions to try a few other things, SCM suggested a strap wrench. That worked well but ultimately slipped. I combined that with a rod and all my body weight, and it "popped" free. No thread lock on the bolt, just extremely tight. SCM did indicate that the factory put them on extremely tightly (made worse by six months of use) and indicated it would take two adults to break it free. One to lock the head and one to put equal weight on the bolt. I wedged the strap wrench under the bar support for the fence and did it by myself.

fs41es loosening bolt.jpg

[Jerry Bruette]

Good to hear you got it apart.

[Jim Becker]

Persistence pays off! 'Glad you got that out finally!