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Thread: Trailer design - 8020 for trailer racking

  1. #1
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    Trailer design - 8020 for trailer racking

    My work trailer is in need of a rebuild. I use it as a rolling toolbox to use on site for installs. Delivery of the product is in a seperate vehicle. At 6x10 it is cosy, but very easy to drive & manoeuvre. At some point I may get a 6.5x14 v-nose for the ability to carry 16'ers inside. But I've gotten by with this for over 4 years. Over these years I've compiled a list of changes I want to make with the goal of less weight, a wider aisle, and more functionality. I'm open to ideas before I pull the trigger.

    Current setup in my 6x10 trailer:
    2018-11-29_15-42-26.jpg
    2019-01-25_13-13-10 copy.jpg
    IMG_1075.jpg

    Design I'm working on, using the same 6x10 trailer:
    Trailer_11 metric 1.jpg
    Trailer_11 metric 2.jpg
    Trailer_11 metric 3.jpg
    Trailer_11 metric 4.jpg

    Main updates:
    *shelves for approx 33 systainers
    *usage of tablesaw & mitersaw
    *less drawers, less weight
    *less generic shelving & cubbies
    *more dedicated cubbies
    *more aisle width
    *better clamp storage
    *more vacuums

    I'm curious about using aluminum profile for the Systainer racking on the right hand wall. I haven't had my hands on the different sized profiles, to know how large (20mm, 25mm, 30mm, etc.) I should use for adequate stiffness. The Systainers will be sitting on little lipped shelves similar to what I currently use currently, mounted to the profile for infinite height adjustment. All the weight of the Systainers is going directly into the floor. Will 20mm / 2020 be sufficient?

    For the miter saw and tablesaw, I've got them arranged stacked, with a 4" high outfeed in between them for the tablesaw. If I need a left-hand outfeed for the miter saw, I'll make a little swing-down arm to hang off the wall above the tablesaw. It's important to note that I don't intend to use the tablesaw and mitersaw in the trailer for every possible cut. My thinking is, since they have to be stored somewhere anyway, why not orientate them such that all the small, simple cuts and punch-list work can be done in the trailer. The outfeed for the tablesaw, for example, will also be where my step ladder will be stored. Does anyone see any issues with this layout?

    In this design there is dedicated transport for:

    3 saw tracks up to 108"
    3 levels
    12 parallel clamps
    3 Festool Midis
    33 Systainers
    tool vest
    compressor
    laser level tripod
    3-4 furniture blankets
    microwave & kettle
    charging station
    hoses & cords
    3rd hands
    benchtop planer
    drawers of misc supplies, handtools, hardware
    cubbies for supplies, extra drills, belt sander, large nail guns
    4' step ladder

    As well, alongside the level & track storage there will be a 9' strip of E track for securing loads such as plywood, bins, folding table, MFT, etc. That right hand wall of Systainers will be flush on the front face to allow sheetgoods to be strapped to it securely.

    Aisle width with my Dewalt DW7491 tablesaw would be 30". A more compact saw like the new Sawstop would bring it to 33".

    Appreciate your comments and suggestions.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by Jonathan Jung; 10-02-2022 at 3:59 PM.
    JonathanJungDesign.com

  2. #2
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    There will be room enough for these Systainers and several more as needed.

    IMG_1079.jpg

    Currently the lower left 2'x2'x8' cubbie is used just for whatever, so a bit messy. It was for two benches, Paulk style, like in the first photos, but I don't carry them with me anymore.

    IMG_1080.jpg
    JonathanJungDesign.com

  3. #3
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    The Systainer Store has a recent video that shows use of some special rails that the current generation of Systainers support...they are made by another company...and Tim used 80/20 or similar to construct a rack that uses them. You might check it out on the 'Tube. They may be a good solution for you because they don't have moving parts to keep things "locked" in.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  4. #4
    I have a few mobile benches made with 40mm extrusions. They are very robust and the system is built around 6 and 8 mm tee nuts.

    I seem to recall trade show booths being made of lighter sections…maybe 30mm? I have a piece of 30mm here and its plenty strong enough for your project.

    Note that 30mm may be the smallest that will accomodate the standard tee nuts.

    Greg

  5. #5
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    Peshtigo,WI
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    80/20 can be some amazing stuff because of it's flexibility in assembly. It can also be some aggravating stuff if not assembled properly. What you would like to do is way different from a work bench or trade show display.

    If you have time go to their website and explore the 80/20 University tab. They have both metric and inch profiles and you'll get an explanation on the different types of fasteners used for assembly.

    If you do use aluminum extrusion for your systainer racks be sure to tighten all your fasteners as tight as you can get them. Use a good quality hex wrench that has good sharp corners and change or grind a new end on the wrench if the corners start to get rounded.

    Where I used to work we had several machines, not enclosures or frames but the actual machines that were made from 80/20. These were crude robotic machines that were used for placing 20# cylinders in a testing machine. They were subject to a lot of forces and vibration. If the fasteners weren't tight the extrusions would start to slip and once that happened all hell would break loose. The advice about the hex wrench is so you don't wallow out the sockets on the button head screws, they're not very deep. I would use the flanged button head screws for assembly, they seemed to hold better versus the regular button head screws.

    Since this will be in a trailer that will be bouncing down many miles of road to and from jobs I would use the heavy profile 40mm or 15. You could use double profiles for the uprights and single profile for the cross members. You'd have a good sturdy frame that will serve you well if it's bolted together tightly with the proper fasteners.
    Confidence: The feeling you experience before you fully understand the situation

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jim Becker View Post
    The Systainer Store has a recent video that shows use of some special rails that the current generation of Systainers support...they are made by another company...and Tim used 80/20 or similar to construct a rack that uses them. You might check it out on the 'Tube. They may be a good solution for you because they don't have moving parts to keep things "locked" in.

    The rails would be a good solution, but only for the 3rd gen systainers. I have too many that won't work with the rails.

    Who is Tim?
    Last edited by Jonathan Jung; 10-03-2022 at 6:09 PM.
    JonathanJungDesign.com

  7. #7
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    Thanks for that. From what I'm seeing at 8020.net, 25mm has a lot of options.
    JonathanJungDesign.com

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jerry Bruette View Post
    80/20 can be some amazing stuff because of it's flexibility in assembly. It can also be some aggravating stuff if not assembled properly. What you would like to do is way different from a work bench or trade show display.

    If you have time go to their website and explore the 80/20 University tab. They have both metric and inch profiles and you'll get an explanation on the different types of fasteners used for assembly.

    If you do use aluminum extrusion for your systainer racks be sure to tighten all your fasteners as tight as you can get them. Use a good quality hex wrench that has good sharp corners and change or grind a new end on the wrench if the corners start to get rounded.

    Where I used to work we had several machines, not enclosures or frames but the actual machines that were made from 80/20. These were crude robotic machines that were used for placing 20# cylinders in a testing machine. They were subject to a lot of forces and vibration. If the fasteners weren't tight the extrusions would start to slip and once that happened all hell would break loose. The advice about the hex wrench is so you don't wallow out the sockets on the button head screws, they're not very deep. I would use the flanged button head screws for assembly, they seemed to hold better versus the regular button head screws.

    Since this will be in a trailer that will be bouncing down many miles of road to and from jobs I would use the heavy profile 40mm or 15. You could use double profiles for the uprights and single profile for the cross members. You'd have a good sturdy frame that will serve you well if it's bolted together tightly with the proper fasteners.
    Really good to hear, thanks. Each Systainer will be held by two rails, and each rail is supported at the ends by two M5 or M6 fasteners, for 8 fasteners per Systainer.
    JonathanJungDesign.com

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jonathan Jung View Post
    The rails would be a good solution, but only for the 3rd gen systainers. I have too many that won't work with the rails.

    Who is Tim?
    I understand...Tim is the guy from the Systainer Store...which is an excellent resource, BTW. He has another good video about various methods to build Systainer drawer support systems.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  10. #10
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    Eastern Iowa
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    No 1st hand experience, but our school's maintenance guy swears by wire shelving and supports, kind that food service uses. Ightzr than wood and a gazillion places to tie down/secure cargo.
    Comments made here are my own and, according to my children, do not reflect the opinions of any other person... anywhere, anytime.

  11. #11
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    I don't have any good suggestions, but I'm following out of curiosity. I retired our dedicated work trailers a few years back because they just became a disorganized disaster area and I basically had to buy a full set of tools for each one, which then spent most of their time not being used. We often have 4 or 5 crews going and the stuff needed by one was always in someone else's trailer if I didn't. Saving $ on fuel not pulling them all over unnecessarily and less target for theft also played into the retirement. Would be completely different with a one crew operation though, and I still do have a irrational interest in a well designed trailer system. Looking forward to seeing your build!

  12. #12
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    I would consider using Uni-strut either the 3/4 or 1.5” type possibly in connection with your 80/20 material. Not sure of cost comparison but great versatility with the US too.

  13. #13
    Don't spare the threadlocker.

    I like your approach. Jobsite trailers can be an ungodly mess. The best thing is to avoid installations but until then...

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