Todays miracle

[Bryan Hall]

Really glad you're okay. I don't even work in the shop with long sleeves, it just makes me nervous. I would love a pair of tearaway gloves though. Something that is tough enough to prevent the splinters but will also instantly rip apart when it enters the machine. Surely that's a doable request if there was enough money behind the project.

[John Lanciani]

...the pork chop was removed... I thought I was doing it with safety in mind...

Not trying to be a jerk but removing guards and thinking that you were safer for it is hard for me to comprehend. The thought of reaching over an unguarded 12" jointer head to edge a 2" wide board makes me wince.

[John Pariseau]

Use proper safety equipment / procedures and make your own luck. No divine intervention required.

These work great at the jointer - Grr-rip Block. The little tabs drop down and hook the material being jointed, no matter how slippery.

They are expensive, but i use them at the jointer, resawing at the bandsaw, and at the router table.

Are they though? To put things in context, they are cheaper than a trip to the ER. At least, that's how I frame safety equipment cost in my mind where it makes sense.

[Warren Lake]

why all the slivers are you jointing a porcupine?

Bad technique and process. Joint them all on a dolly beside you then do them again for the edge with the fence pulled over to you. We are taught a process, I shuffle it up as what the job is, the this is how we do it does not fit all. Processing that suits the job does. Also on one particular repeat job I always went the planer after face jointing and even on other jobs, it can work better on some stuff like once both sides are clean you truly know what you have to work with any sapwood or. If you jointed face then went the planer you would also get rid of most of the porcupine.

[Brian Runau]

Glad you're ok. No gloves, no jewelry, no long sleeves, no music, no tv. I do wear gloves when I move raw lumber around the shop, but never when I am cutting or milling.

[Alan Lightstone]

I religiously use rubber pushblocks (2 with the back on with the tabs down) on my jointer and never wear gloves. I agree that the European guards get in the way on a wide piece on a jointer. I guess you could take your front hand/push block off the wood and transfer it over the guard to the distal part while jointing, but doesn't that mean that you really mean the wood could lift up slightly while changing your hand position and not getting a true flat cut on the wood?

And, more importantly, glad you're okay.

[Andrew Hughes]

I have and will wear gloves handling Rough sawn Douglas fir.
After its kiln dried the splinters are nasty. The splinters are the same color as flesh very hard to see. I can’t think of any other time I need gloves.