What can I use for table saw fence face?

[Derek Arita]

I finally got around to watching some Saw Stop videos. Do you have the Hi-Low fence?
I think I would try carefully sanding the stock fence and checking progress with a straightedge and square.

Don't know what hi-low refers to. I plan on sanding on a granite reference flat first and see if I can flatten it. I just can't except that because it's a jobsite saw, it shouldn't be held to the same standards of any table saw.

[Jim Becker]

Derek the "elephant in the room" for me is that if the fence is out of flat enough to be of concern, and it's a new saw, why not try to address that with the manufacturer. Just because it's a "job-site" saw doesn't mean there cannot be a reasonable expectation that it will not have a major defect. Especially given it was not an inexpensive tool purchase.

[Kevin Jenness]

I have flattened a cupped aluminum fence with a sanding board and added p-lam for smooth feeding.

[Derek Arita]

So right now, I'm super happy! I sanded the face of the fence on my reference flat, with 220 paper and it worked! Ya, it looks like crap, but that really doesn't matter. I tried a couple of cuts and no more waviness. I sanded till I got about .002 deviance from end to end and that was good enough for me. Now I don't have to add a fence face to it. As an added bonus, sanding took out the vertical cup as well, so a win-win. I'm stoked. Now I can move on...

[Maurice Mcmurry]

Nicely done! The appearance is interesting. If you ever need to re do the laminate you could use Colorcore Formica.

[Roger Feeley]

Don't know what hi-low refers to.

Me too. What’s hi-low?

[Bill Dufour]

Screw thick wood face to the fence . Make sure to countersink all the fasteners. Then run it over the jointer to flatten it. If it was cast iron scraping is by far the most accurate way to get it flat and at the correct angle. Very steep learning curve to do that but the tools are cheap and can be made at home.
Bill D

[Jim Becker]

Me too. What’s hi-low?

The venerable Delta UniFence and pretty much every fence on a Euro slider has "high/low" positioning for the actual fence. "High" is a vertical fence similar to a T-square type fence. "Low" is when you slide the fence out and rotate it 90º so that the fence height is about a half inch or so. It gives more hand clearance when using a push device and less interference from overhead collection when ripping strips of material between the blade and the fence. It's my preferred position, honestly...I don't set it to "high" unless I need that support for whatever I'm cutting.

[Greg Quenneville]

I don't set it to "high" unless I need that support for whatever I'm cutting.

Me too. As an added refinement I have a short piece of extrusion similar to 8020 that replaces the fence extrusion when I only want a bump stop. (I have a full combo so my fence is really too long to retract far enough to use as bump stop)

[Jim Becker]

Me too. As an added refinement I have a short piece of extrusion similar to 8020 that replaces the fence extrusion when I only want a bump stop. (I have a full combo so my fence is really too long to retract far enough to use as bump stop)

The actual fence that SCM/Minimax ships with their sliders is uber long, so I just cut a short 300mm or so section off for using as you mention since I keep the "full length" fence rear end back from the end of the blade and don't need the extra length anyway.

[Paul Saffold]

A source for custom lengths of the 80-20 mentioned. Not everyone wants 6 ft.

https://f-l-8020-store.myshopify.com/products/1030

[Greg Parrish]

Me too. What’s hi-low?

Pretty sure he is talking about the flip over low profile fence for using material closer to the saw blade while also using the blade guard. The SS JSP has a small fence that flips from right side when stored to the left side when used. If you use this, it would make it hard to fit a replacement or add on fence face.

See the 4th picture over on their website: https://www.sawstop.com/product/jobs...ro-jss-120a60/