The Wood Whisperer replaced his Sawstop fence with aluminum extrusion…https://youtu.be/Co2W6TNovDw…starts around 3:20 of the video.
The Wood Whisperer replaced his Sawstop fence with aluminum extrusion…https://youtu.be/Co2W6TNovDw…starts around 3:20 of the video.
Thanks for the link. The fence on the SS JSPro is not at all the same type of fence, so to use something like that would be much more difficult. Also, I've read or saw that extrusion is not very flat. I think that's the reason VSCT machines their extrusions to get them flat and square.
Derek the "elephant in the room" for me is that if the fence is out of flat enough to be of concern, and it's a new saw, why not try to address that with the manufacturer. Just because it's a "job-site" saw doesn't mean there cannot be a reasonable expectation that it will not have a major defect. Especially given it was not an inexpensive tool purchase.
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The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...
I have flattened a cupped aluminum fence with a sanding board and added p-lam for smooth feeding.
just tell them the name says PRO, the fence says its not.
My Beismeyer was not straight and so had to sand the metal to flat before putting on a auxiliary fence. The fence on the SCM while old and used hard might be out a tiny bit from wear is so many levels above these other fences.
I'm glad you found what the problem was anyway.
So right now, I'm super happy! I sanded the face of the fence on my reference flat, with 220 paper and it worked! Ya, it looks like crap, but that really doesn't matter. I tried a couple of cuts and no more waviness. I sanded till I got about .002 deviance from end to end and that was good enough for me. Now I don't have to add a fence face to it. As an added bonus, sanding took out the vertical cup as well, so a win-win. I'm stoked. Now I can move on...
Nicely done! The appearance is interesting. If you ever need to re do the laminate you could use Colorcore Formica.
Best Regards, Maurice
Screw thick wood face to the fence . Make sure to countersink all the fasteners. Then run it over the jointer to flatten it. If it was cast iron scraping is by far the most accurate way to get it flat and at the correct angle. Very steep learning curve to do that but the tools are cheap and can be made at home.
Bill D
The venerable Delta UniFence and pretty much every fence on a Euro slider has "high/low" positioning for the actual fence. "High" is a vertical fence similar to a T-square type fence. "Low" is when you slide the fence out and rotate it 90º so that the fence height is about a half inch or so. It gives more hand clearance when using a push device and less interference from overhead collection when ripping strips of material between the blade and the fence. It's my preferred position, honestly...I don't set it to "high" unless I need that support for whatever I'm cutting.
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The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...
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The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...
A source for custom lengths of the 80-20 mentioned. Not everyone wants 6 ft.
https://f-l-8020-store.myshopify.com/products/1030
Pretty sure he is talking about the flip over low profile fence for using material closer to the saw blade while also using the blade guard. The SS JSP has a small fence that flips from right side when stored to the left side when used. If you use this, it would make it hard to fit a replacement or add on fence face.
See the 4th picture over on their website: https://www.sawstop.com/product/jobs...ro-jss-120a60/