Transtint Dye and Shellac

[Tom Bain]

I’m playing around with some Transtint dye on walnut to even out the sap wood and heart wood, and variations between boards. I’m curious if folks prefer to apply the dye on it’s own and then seal with shellac, or just tint the shellac directly?

[Prashun Patel]

That depends. Normally I apply due to raw wood. But on a darker or deeper color I might tint the shellac or top coat to get more color build. You have to practice both ways to be able to feel what’s appropriate. If you do too many shellac coats things can get too thick.

Now, really think hard whether you need to blend that sap wood with the heartwood. What blends today has the potential to look unnatural years later as/if the heartwood fades.

[Tom Bain]

To be sure, I'm not committed to the dye just making samples. I'm also trying to preserve the dark brown color and delay the inevitable fading.

Another question -- do you prefer water or alcohol for the transtint solvent?

[glenn bradley]

I prefer alcohol. Applying the tint directly to the wood is my preference. This makes it easier IMHO to even areas out or lighten the color is too dark by rubbing with an alcohol wet rag. I have also tinted shellac to tone material. As mentioned, if tinting the shellac you'll want to reach your goal with one or two very thin coats or the tinted film can block the natural appearance of the walnut. If you are OK coloring the walnut to the point of many kitchen cabinet type finishes (so much color the wood could be anything) I would just go straight to that.

[Curt Harms]

I'm certainly no expert but I've used transtint in dewaxed shellac, I believe the term is toning. I was trying to match a finish that is no longer available. I could get close but no cigar. Transtint got me to the last little bit. As far as application, I've heard (no experience) that applying transtint in alcohol by hand is pretty tricky. Alcohol evaporates really quickly and it's difficult to "keep a wet edge". Spraying alcohol is preferred. Water causes grain raising so mist, let dry, light sanding then finish. Most important might be to go through the entire process on a piece of scrap first.

[Prashun Patel]

Solvent or water depends on the color and desired effect imho. Applying a darker color in ethanol by hand can get streaky, but it reduces grain raising.

If you can spray then the easiest and best imho is to dissolve the transitint in alcohol and spray it. This is really the best of all worlds. Less grain raising, easier blending, quick drying. Spraying will also build the color faster than repeated wipes, which can move dye around as much as it builds. The liquid also tends to saturate the wood so you have to wait for it to dry between build coats. Spraying in ethanol does not have this issue.

[Jim Becker]

Historically, I used water soluble dye (made with Transtint) for coloration, but I've taken a liking to using alcohol for better workability, at least to me. It's easy to blend by rubbing it out with pure DNA for spot coloration like you need to do for what you describe but the method can even be used to do more creative things like bursts on guitar bodies by blending, rubbing, abrading, rinse repeat until the effect is complete. Always start with a more dilute solution than you need for your intended purpose and "work up" to the color you need. Test on scrap including your top coat because the clears WILL alter the color.

[Tom Bain]

Appreciate all the advice … I am playing to spray so will go with alcohol for the solvent and not mix with shellac. Never attempted to dye walnut before and really interested to see how it looks … I may totally hate it

[Jeff Roltgen]

Tom,
I just burned through about a dozen color samples for my own personal project. Live edge walnut, sapwood inclusions. Wanted to enrich the depth of heartwood, yet avoid black blotchy pores in the sapwood. Finally nailed it.
In the process, tried my first attempt at using Crystal-Lac on the bare wood before dye stain, as a grain filler, yes, but also to control amount of that deep dark stain seeping into the sapwood pores. I would definitely do that again.
Trans tint recipe is odd, as I mixed a couple formulations out of my collection (dozens of jars and concoctions in the fireproof cab- a little of this, some more of that...)
Actually turned out to be a blend of Lacquer thinner, Alcohol and H2O for solvents, and worked perfectly well.
Sprayed on, with a quick light pass over sapwood zones, and a bit heavier where the figure was. The water component allowed time for wiping, and unlike the straight solvent spray mix, did not blotch up the pore areas, especially with the aid of the Crystal-Lac in there. Some find it hard to believe, but it really does go crystal-clear when top coated, whether applied to bare wood or in between topcoats, as I more commonly use it.

Bottom line, you can definitely use dye to make walnut look extra-deep and warm, yet natural. Crystal lac not entirely necessary, but for me was a cool experiment that worked well.

A few shots of one of the first couple top coats still wet. Smaller square piece had more figure, so I naturally laid into it a bit heavier with the color. Pictures don't do full justice, but give you an idea:

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Went with clear gloss poly, began full pore-fill leveling by power sanding after 3rd coat, and after about 3 more coats, finished off with a satin. This helps preserve that deep, wet look grain, keeping that figure lively, with just the edge taken off the sheen.
Downside: Satin brushing poly lets flattening agents settle out before fully cured, so the sheen is a little spattered looking, a testament to the fact it was sprayed on, if you get up close. I forgot about that feature, so would recommend either a super-fast drying final sheen coat, or just rub it out with some Liberon 0000 wool. Lots of ways to skin that cat.

jeff

[Stan Calow]

I've used TT mixed in shellac. It works fine if you like the final look and the added color from the shellac. Its a toner then, so the wood is not being dyed directly. Good for repairs that way. Disadvantage is that you can just add more coats of dye to get it darker.